The warm climate in most of southern Australian is perfect for producing powerful, ripe, and high alcohol wines like Shiraz and Cabernet, but it is too warm to produce quality Pinot Noir. Western Australia, south of Perth, is significantly cooler. Structured, almost old-world Shiraz is grown here as is some very solid and pocketbook-friendly Pinot Noir.

Barwick Estate consists of 200 hectares of vineyards in three regions (Margaret River, Blackwood Valley, and Pemberton) of Western Australia some 300 to 400 miles south of Perth. The estate was founded in 1997, and a state-of-the-art winery was completed in 2004. Barwick produces 134,000 cases for distribution and sells juice and bulk wine to other wineries, the best known of which is Tahbilk. Nigel Ludlow is the winemaker.

Our selection this month comes from the 73-hectare Treenbrook vineyard in the Pemberton region, which features well-drained, loamy soil on a gently undulating landscape. Aged in mostly used French oak, it shows the delicate nuances of the variety. Cherry, raspberry, black olive, spice, and some toasted oak are featured in the bouquet and on the palate. The integrated fine tannins and fruit lead to a surprisingly long finish. Quality Pinot Noir at this price is rare. Serve it with lighter meats such as goose, chicken, and rabbit. It won't overpower most seafood. Try it with quail.

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