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Cecchi
Bonizio Toscana, 2005 Tuscany
is a special and historic region in central Italy. Known for its hilly
landscapes, spectacular cities (Florence, Siena, Lucca, and San Gimignano) and
artistic legacy, it is also famous for the classic wines of Chianti, Brunello di
Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. These come from the central parts
of Tuscany which range from hilly to mountainous. There
are other, less well known, less touristy parts of Tuscany that produce some
terrific wines and some terrific wine values. The southern coastal region of
Tuscany is loosely referred to as the Maremma. The Maremma is often referred to
as the “Wild West,” both in terms of its landscapes and its winemaking.
While the Etruscans were making wine thousands of years ago in northern Tuscany,
the Maremma used to be a wild, swampy backwater and viticulture was only
introduced to the region in the 19th century. It wasn’t until the 1980s that
foreigners had even heard of Maremma wines. The man often credited with
discovering the region's potential is Marchese (Marquis) Mario Incisa della
Rocchetta, the founder of Sassicaia. He envisioned Bordeaux-style wines blended
with Tuscany’s noble Sangiovese grape. Sassicaia, Antinori’s Tignanello, and
other “Super Tuscan” wines command very high prices. In
addition to the world class SuperTuscans, there are also many value wines. We
featured a gutsy Morellino di Scansano from the Maremma earlier this year. This
month’s choice is a Maremma wine that does not carry the prestigious DOC
designation; it is simply referred to as an IGT wine (Indicazione Geografica
Tipica), meaning it is typical of the area. Actually it is much better than just
typical. Made from 100% Sangiovese grapes grown at an altitude of 230 meters
(700 feet), it is a beautiful expression of the grape with pure fruit
unencumbered by oak. Deep in color, it sports 12.5% alcohol and has a complex
aroma of Mediterranean scrub and ripe cherries. There is sufficient acidity, but
it is softer than a Chianti and can be enjoyed now and over the next 12 months.
It received a gold medal at the Los Angeles International Wine and Spirits
Competition. The recommended serving temperature is 61-64 degrees F. Cecchi
Bonizio is fabulous with grilled game hens, pasta, and
medium-flavored red meat dishes. Family-owned but affiliated with Banfi, Cecchi is now run by the fourth generation. The firm began in Siena but moved to Castellina-in-Chianti in the 1970s. The family owns 300 hectares (740 aces) of vineyards in four different zones. They crush and ferment at each of their properties, but all their wines are aged at the Castellina-in-Chianti facility. Cecci began producing wine in Maremma 10 years ago and now makes 13,000 cases of Bonizio annually.>
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