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Bodegas Altanza Capitoso Rioja, 2005
$11.99/bottle - $129.99/case

No country produces better red wine values than Spain. And despite the rise of wines from obscure parts of the country (Alicante, Toro, La Mancha, and Extremadura) and the continued strides made by respected regions (Ribero del Duero, Navarra, and Priorat), no wine district makes more impressive wines than Rioja. The original source for exports, Rioja is located along the River Ebro just 50 miles from the Pyrenees that separate Spain from France. Rioja consists of three sections; Rioja Alta, at an elevation exceeding 1900 feet, is considered to be the best.

The family-run Bodegas Altanza lies in the Rioja Alta region. Oscar Martinez is the third generation of winemakers in Rioja. Altanza has 120 hectares planted with Tempranillo grapes around Fuenmayor in the center of the Rioja Alta. Unlike most estates, which grow several varietals, Altanza grows only Tempranillo. Green pruning keeps yields low. Typically 8-10 bunches are left on each vine for an average yield of only three pounds of fruit per plant.

Bodegas Altanza makes wines of different quality levels including crianzas (aged in oak at least 12 months) and riservas (aged in wood at least 24 months and an additional year in the bottle), but this entry-level wine is a good example of Altanza’s craft. The hand-picked grapes were fermented part in stainless steel and part in large Allier vats using native yeast before the wine was aged for eight months in mostly used French (85%) and American (15%) oak casks. The deep, dark ruby color is accompanied by an aroma of fresh berry fruit and a light dose of integrated oak. Dark cherry fruit rides on a smooth, balanced, and silky texture. It is perfect with paella or tapas.

For history buffs: King Sancho of Navarra legally recognized the wines of Rioja in 1102. In 1635 the Mayor of Logroño banned carriages from passing along the roads next to cellars “for fear that the vibration from these vehicles might affect the juice and the aging of our precious wines.” In 1787 the Royal Economic Society of Rioja Winegrowers was established to encourage vine cultivation, wine production, and commercialization. A Royal Decree in 1902 defined the “origin” applicable to Rioja wines. In 1926 a Control Board was created to define the boundaries of “Rioja” wines, supervise the issue of the “seal of approval,” and to recommend the legal measures to be taken against “usurpers and forgers of the Rioja” name.

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