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Viña Altaba Bobal Reserva, 2003
$12.99/bottle - $139.99/case

Wonderful values continue to arrive from Spain. Our selection this month features a relatively obscure but worthy grape. Clusters of Bobal grapes assume a semi-erect posture reminiscent of the shape of a bull's head, and the name derives from the Latin bovale. Long, strong, trailing shoots makes Bobal difficult to work in the summer, but the shoots often completely cover the ground thus helping to conserve moisture in the arid climate. Bobal is commonly grown as a low bush (en vaso) and less often on trellises (en espaldera). It is perfectly adapted to the local climate and is resistant to extremes of weather and disease. The must is normally high in colorants and tannins and is suitable for aging. It contains higher than average quantities of resveratrol thought by some to be the source of red wine's health benefits. Bobal wines tend to be fruity, relatively low in alcohol content, and relatively high in acidity.

Bobal is native to the Utiel-Requena region in Valencia, Spain, where it represents about 90% of all vines, but it is also grown in Manchuela as is our selection. The earliest documentation of Bobal dates to the 15th century. Overall Bobal is the third most planted (8%) variety in Spain. The white grape Airén is first (27%) but declining, and Tempranillo is second (17%).

This reserva comes from Vitivinos Anunciación, a cooperative founded in 1969 by 19 growers. Today it consists of 200 growers who make and market their wines under the Viña Altaba, Azua, and Llanos Del Marques labels. The growers and the winery are situated about 10 miles west of Valencia in the Manchuela appellation. The growers use mostly organic techniques.

Our selection is made from 100% Bobal grapes from the Villamalea vineyard at an altitude of 2500 feet. The heavily clay soil helps to hold moisture in this relatively dry land. The densely planted vines are over 30 years old. After fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of large American and French oak. It was then aged 24 months in the bottle before release. A very food-friendly wine, it clocks in at only 12.5% alcohol. Its rich flavors show an interesting, slightly dusty fruit with overtones reminiscent of truffles, tobacco, clove, and cinnamon. The finish is drying but very appealing. Serve it with Risotto and Sausage or other hearty fare.

 

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