Viognier is an aromatic white grape that originated in France’s Rhône district. A shy producer, difficult to grow, and subject to powdery mildew in damp conditions, it fell out of favor; less than 35 acres remained in all of France by the late 1960s. It has since undergone a resurgence in France as well as many other countries. The problem with many Viogniers is that despite their wonderful bouquet and flavors of ripe apricots, orange blossoms, acacia, and tropical fruits, they have a tendency to produce low acid, high alcohol wines that seem out of balance.

Estampa, an architectural award-winning, state-of-the art winery in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, hit upon a perfect solution. Blending 15% cool-climate Chardonnay with 85% Viognier results in an absolutely delightful wine! Viognier contributes softness and notes of ripe apricots and exotic tropical fruit, while acidity, citrus, and green apple notes are added by the Chardonnay. Overall it is balanced with fresh acidity and a creamy finish. Its pretty golden hue has a touch of green. Serve it with salmon and salsa.

Estampa harvested the Viognier (at only 3.5 tons/acre) grapes in two stages during March for optimal ripeness and to preserve the wide range of aromas and flavors. The Chardonnay (only 3 tons/acre) was purchased from producers in the Casablanca Valley and not harvested until mid-April, for marine-influenced Casablanca Valley allows a slower development of the fresh fruit aromas while maintaining great acidity. The grapes were hand-harvested and sorted twice to use only the best grapes. After fermentation the wine was aged sur lees with periodic anaerobic bâtonnage (stirring). No malo was allowed, thus preserving the freshness and vivacity. More geeky details: 13.6% alcohol, 4.64 g/l sugar (just below threshold detectability for most people), 6.51 g/l acidity, pH 3.09, and 33 mg/liter sulfides. (At least they tell you about the sulfites -- few wineries do!)

The wine has none of the sweet, cloying, and high alcohol characteristics of many American Viogniers. It has a wonderful texture as well as charming floral Viognier notes without going overboard. It works equally well with lemon sauces, cream sauces, loin of pork, grilled fatty fish, spicy oriental stir-fries, curries, coconut milk-infused Thai dishes, crab cakes, and sushi.

The Colchagua Valley lies 50 miles south of Santiago. It is essentially a basin between two transverse (east-west) chains of high hills that in turn connect the two north-south mountain ranges (the coastal and the Andes). It is a corridor for the refreshing winds that alternately blow from the Pacific Ocean and the Andes, and these geographical features contribute to a Mediterranean climate with four clearly defined seasons. It is ideally suited for growing grapes.