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Morellino
di Scansano “Anteo,” Everyone
knows Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany’s most famous red wines.
Most wine lovers are also familiar with the “SuperTuscans” and even Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano. But Morellino di Scansano is obscure. It is made in the
hilly environs of the coastal village of Scansano in the Maremma. Morellino is
the local name for Sangiovese. It may also be related to Morello (brown), the
color of Maremmano horses. The wine, which was granted DOC status in 1978 and
upgraded to DOCG status with the 2007 vintage, is made from at least 85%
Sangiovese. The remainder can comprise any non-aromatic black grape varietal
included in a list made and periodically updated by the Regione Toscana local
authorities. Wines
from this region were historically excellent, but lacking noble lords found in
other towns such as Montalcino, the people from Scansano never developed precise
and strict rules for making their wine. The DOC does not require wood aging for
Morellino, so versions range from unoaked, simple fruit bombs to more
structured, wood-tamed beauties. Ironically one of the very best Morellino di
Scansano (Castello Romitorio) is actually produced by a winery that is based in
the town of Montalcino. Riccardo
Azara created Rocca dei Venti in 1999. He named this wine after Anteo, the
Giant, son of Era (the Greek earth god), immortal as long as his feet stay in
touch with the mother earth. The 2004 Anteo was made from relatively low
yielding vines due to the practice of green harvest. It was fermented in
stainless steel and aged 4-6 months in wood. The Italian wine magazine Gambero
Rosso gave the 2004 Anteo two glasses (out of three possible). Serve this
medium-bodied, dry red wine with braised pork, red
meat, roasts, and cheese.
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