Our Saturday tasters loved the Moure de Autor Mencia but bemoaned the $40 price. We took that as a challenge to find a more affordable one still of high quality. Incredibly, a salesman walked in a few days later with this delicious Mencia from Bodegas Godelia!

What is Mencia? Pronounced men-THEE-a, it is a local grape grown in northwest Spain, not far from the source of most Albariños. Until recently, Mencia was planted mostly on fertile plains resulting in light, pale, and fragrant wines for early consumption. In recent years, much more concentrated and complex wines have been produced by a new generation of winemakers from lower yielding, hillside vineyards. Because of its aromatic profile, Mencia was once thought to be an ancient clone of Cabernet Franc, but DNA profiling shows that is not the case. It is identical to nearby Portugal’s Jaen du Dão grape.

Bodegas Godelia is owned by the Garcia Rodriguez family in the Bierza denomination of origin (D.O.). Three separate vineyards on partially terraced, moderate to steep hills range from 1650 to 2300 feet above sea level and total 87 acres. The soil is decomposed quartzite and slate as well as some clay. Slate provides minerality and acidity, protects the roots, and keeps humidity levels stable which produces highly aromatic wines. Quartzite adds personality to the wines and helps with drainage and the downward expansion of the roots. The clay holds water and organic material required by the vines.

The combination of bush vines and trellis vines are densely planted (3500-7000 plants per hectare, but the vines are still relatively young, between 10 and 19 years of age. A strict selection of grapes in the vineyard is followed by manual selection on a sorting table; only the best grapes are used. This is the least expensive of Godelia’s three Mencias. It is bright cherry in color with an intense floral aroma featuring violet and wild red berry notes backed up by mineral nuances. A uniquely dry, dusty earthiness pervades the flavor profile. The wine is ample and smooth in the mouth with ripe tannins and a persistent finish. Parker: 88 "The 2009 Godelia Viernes displays a creamier texture, more depth, and richer fruit than [the 2010]. It should be enjoyed over the next 12-18 months. Godelia makes its debut in the pages of this journal with a solid performance." Tanzer: 88 "Bright violet. Aromas of red currant and cherry lifted by a floral top note and a hint of cracked pepper. Light in body and tangy, with good cut and lift to the bitter cherry and red- and black currant flavors. This racy, precise wine finishes with good cling and length."

Try it with a pork stew or other hearty dish.

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