There are still white wine lovers who haven't tasted an Austrian Grüner Veltliner. There are even some who haven't heard of the grape! Here is a delicious, albeit entry-level, example of this up-and-coming varietal. Grüner is clearly capable of greatness; the best command prices similar to Premier Cru white Burgundies. But most are cleanly made, delicious, value wines.

The family-owned Thorn-Clarke winery derives its name from two long-time Barossa families. Six generations have been involved in the region’s wine industry. The winery owners are David and Cheryl Clarke (nee Thorn). Their son, Sam, is manager of the winery. Cheryl's brother, David Thorn, manages the Mount Crawford and Kabininge vineyards for Thorn-Clarke Wines. Her father, Ron Thorn, has one of the oldest Shiraz vineyards in Australia, dating to 1854. The vineyard has been in the Thorn family since the 1870s. David Clarke’s family were pioneers in the Barossa as well but most famously in the mining of gold from the Barossa gold fields. One of his ancestors, James Goddard, was the responsible for opening the Lady Alice gold mine, the largest gold mine in South Australia at the time.

Thorn-Clarke produces several different lines of wine from their four vineyard sites. The Terra Barossa (Sandpiper in Australia) line represents their value wines. The Chardonnay comes from the Eden Valley, the cooler ranges above the Barossa Valley floor. Because 2008 was a very warm year, the harvest was completed in a short period, and the resulting wines have loads of upfront fruit and a rich mouth feel. The grapes were crushed, destemmed, and then lightly pressed (only once) using a membrane press. French yeast were used in the cool (54-59 degrees), slow fermentation to retain all the natural flavors of the grape. A portion was aged in French oak for a short time. The wine shows a light straw color and a nose of some complexity with peach and nectarine fruits, some barrel ferment character, and hints of clove and cardamon. This is a medium weight Chardonnay with melon and citrus character. It is balanced nicely with good acidity, and there is an oatmeal-like character contributing to the rich mouth feel. The lengthy finish is mostly citrus. It would be great with Chicken Tortellini Salad.

Four generations of the Sauer family were vigneron in Algeria before André and his son, Jean-Luc, wisely moved back to France in the early 1960s. (Interestingly, the term "vigneron" refers to someone who grows grapes and makes wine. There are no words in French to distinguish between these functions.) They purchased Château Haut-Fabrègues in the town of Cabrerolles, which lies in the department of Herault (Languedoc) just west of the Rhône.

Château Haut-Fabrègues originally belonged to the Knights of Malta from the time of the Crusades until the French Revolution, and its wines were highly thought of in the courts of Europe. The Cordier family owned it in the mid-1800s. Although they enlarged and improved the vineyard, the phylloxera infestation soon devastated it, as well as most of the Languedoc. When the Sauers took over, they found the estate and much of Herault to be producing mediocre wines. They reintroduced quality to the property as they completely refurbished the estate and gradually replanted 49 hectares of vines. Their example was followed by other owners in the area. Château Haut-Fabrègues now has 75.5 hectares (186.5 acres) under vine. André has passed away, and Jean-Luc's son, Cedric, has taken an active role.

The vineyard part of the estate is restricted to the south-facing slopes of the foothills of the Cévennes where the soil is exclusively schistose. The average yield is a low 35 hectoliters per hectare. The Cuvée Tradition is a blend of 35% Grenache, 25% Carignan, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, and 10% Cinsault. The Carignan portion was fermented using carbonic maceration for softness and fruitiness; the remainder was fermented traditionally for structure and complexity. The wine was aged 18 months in large foudre. After two years of bottle aging, it has a very expressive bouquet. Ripe fruit and a rounded texture are evident, and it shows vitality, complexity, and an impressively long finish. It is clearly a wine to enjoy with barbecued steaks.

Wonderful values continue to arrive from Spain. Our selection this month features a relatively obscure but worthy grape. Clusters of Bobal grapes assume a semi-erect posture reminiscent of the shape of a bull's head, and the name derives from the Latin bovale. Long, strong, trailing shoots makes Bobal difficult to work in the summer, but the shoots often completely cover the ground thus helping to conserve moisture in the arid climate. Bobal is commonly grown as a low bush (en vaso) and less often on trellises (en espaldera). It is perfectly adapted to the local climate and is resistant to extremes of weather and disease. The must is normally high in colorants and tannins and is suitable for aging. It contains higher than average quantities of resveratrol thought by some to be the source of red wine's health benefits. Bobal wines tend to be fruity, relatively low in alcohol content, and relatively high in acidity.

Bobal is native to the Utiel-Requena region in Valencia, Spain, where it represents about 90% of all vines, but it is also grown in Manchuela as is our selection. The earliest documentation of Bobal dates to the 15th century. Overall Bobal is the third most planted (8%) variety in Spain. The white grape Airén is first (27%) but declining, and Tempranillo is second (17%).

This reserva comes from Vitivinos Anunciación, a cooperative founded in 1969 by 19 growers. Today it consists of 200 growers who make and market their wines under the Viña Altaba, Azua, and Llanos Del Marques labels. The growers and the winery are situated about 10 miles west of Valencia in the Manchuela appellation. The growers use mostly organic techniques.

Our selection is made from 100% Bobal grapes from the Villamalea vineyard at an altitude of 2500 feet. The heavily clay soil helps to hold moisture in this relatively dry land. The densely planted vines are over 30 years old. After fermentation, the wine was aged for 12 months in a combination of large American and French oak. It was then aged 24 months in the bottle before release. A very food-friendly wine, it clocks in at only 12.5% alcohol. Its rich flavors show an interesting, slightly dusty fruit with overtones reminiscent of truffles, tobacco, clove, and cinnamon. The finish is drying but very appealing. Serve it with Risotto and Sausage or other hearty fare.

The book that will some day be written on the history of the Sebastiani family and winery will conclude that family and business often do not mix. Don Sebastiani, one of founder Samuele's grandsons, at first avoided the family wine business, then controlled by his mother, Sylvia, and run by his oldest brother, Sam. After obtaining a degree in government, Don served as a California State Assemblyman until Sylvia fired Sam, who went off to found his own winery, Viansa. Don took over the reigns as CEO and quadrupled Sebastiani's sales in 15 years.

Like his brother before him, Don discovered the difficulties of running a family business and trying to please all the members of the family. After selling off the central valley operation that he had built up, he returned the Sonoma winery and vineyards to the family members and stepped down as CEO in 2001. He then launched Don Sebastiani & Sons with his share of the proceeds. With his contacts in the industry, his new venture acted as a negoçiant, marketing already-made wines under labels such as Smoking Loon, Talus, Mia's Playground, and Screw Kappa Nappa. Many of his labels poked fun at the pretensions of the wine establishment by offering quality and value. That effort has reached its pinnacle with The Crusher.

The Crusher is made by the Wilson family who have large vineyard holdings in Clarksburg, a wine-growing region nestled in the Sacramento River Delta. Hot summer days are somewhat moderated by cool delta breezes. The warmth and rich delta soil preclude the production of great wine, but it's hard to beat these wines for ripe, rich fruit flavor and outright value.

The dark Cab has enticing aromas of raspberries, plums, and spice. Lively, clean, and very varietal fruit comes through on the palate with a focused blackberry profile and notes of fresh coffee and dusty, sweet leather. The specific Cabernet clones planted at Wilson Vineyards, along with their viticultural practices, produce relatively small grapes which contributes to the concentration and secondary flavors in this wine. This is a full-bodied Cabernet with a core of well-ripened tannins and none of the "cheap" taste so common in California wines at this price.

The even darker Petite Sirah is rich and complex with aromas of blueberry and cassis with a hint of spearmint. The supple palate shows lip-smacking caramel and French vanilla sappiness followed by a ripe cassis finish. The wine has balanced acidity and firm but very ripe tannins. Serve these wines with hearty fare such as short ribs.

Emilia and Romagna (often hyphenated to Emilia-Romagna) lie south of the river Po a stone's throw northeast of Tuscany. This region has some of the richest cuisine in Italy (Parma ham, Parmesan cheese, and Bolognese sauce). E-R is beginning to shake off its reputation for low quality, high quantity wines (Lambrusco anyone?). Faenza and Forli in Romagna make Sangiovese di Romagna to rival some Tuscan wines. These wines can display a glorious purity of fruit and a more typical expression of varietal character than their more famed Tuscan neighbor.

Like other Rioja wineries, El Coto is best known for its red wines, and we carry the basic Crianza as well as the Imaz Reserva. Both are excellent wines and excellent values. El Coto also makes this light, clean, tasty, and unoaked white wine from 100% Viura grapes. It has a pretty aroma faintly reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lively and refreshing wine with a soft texture and a lingering, slightly tart finish of flowers and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood and light main dish salads such as Lemony Tuna Pasta Salad. The alcohol is a modest 12.5%.

Australia's beautiful Barossa Valley, about 30 miles northeast of Adelaide, is 19 miles long and varies from two miles to 6.5 miles wide with an altitude ranging from 550 feet above sea level at Lyndoch to 1900 feet at Pewsey Vale. The warm climate is close to that of Portugal. There are a number of different climatic subregions, but the full-bodied reds for which the valley is famous come invariably from the valley floor. It is quite an arid region with an annual average rainfall of only 20 inches. Summer evaporation can also be extreme. There is some water available from bores and wells, but the amount is usually restricted.

Named by a Colonel Light after the region in Spain ("Hill of Roses") where he fought in the Spanish Peninsula War, Barossa was settled by German Lutherans fleeing religious persecution in the 1840s. Well known names such as Burge Family, Ch. Yaldarra, Cockatoo Ridge, Elderton, Hardys, Henschke, Jacobs Creek, Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Peter Lehmann, Saltram, St. Hallett, Yalumba, and Seppelts are based in the Barossa Valley and are among the eighty-plus wineries and five hundred-plus grape growers that contribute to the ongoing reputation of the region.

Nine Stones began as a collaboration between Denis Power and Len Evans, a well-known wine educator and raconteur. Both men are of Celtic origin and the name Nine Stones derives from the ancient Celtic custom of creating circular patterns of standing stones. Groups of nine standing stones still remain in parts of Scotland and Ireland. Since Len's death in 2006, Denis has continued the work of the Evans Wine Company. 

Sourced from the middle and upper reaches of the valley, Nine Stones Barossa Shiraz is a richly flavored, supple, and ripe wine that shows the quality and style of Barossa fruit in a slightly lighter format than the more expensive wines for which Barossa is famous. The aromas and flavors profile blackberry, dark cherry, and chocolate notes. Wine Spectator: 89 "Ripe and generous, not heavy but brimming with fresh blackberry and blueberry fruit, shaded with dusky spice and leather notes. The finish sails on nicely. Best from 2011 through 2016." Serve it with lamb or beef.

In the late 1930s Irv Bliss was drawn to Mendocino County by its beautiful rolling hills and unspoiled land. He found himself on Old Toll Road looking out over a picturesque ranch that he dreamed of acquiring. Years later Irv heard of a Mendocino property for sale. He gathered all his savings and headed to the auction to bid on the property sight unseen. As fate would have it, the land Irv purchased was the original 450 acre ranch that had captivated him. The ranch consisted of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. Irv gradually planted more vines, and by the 1970s he was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. All the grapes were sold to established wineries. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes.

On the other side of the family tree, the Brutocao family left Venice three generations ago. A marriage brought the Bliss and Brutocao families together and the Brutocao family got involved with the business. The majority of the grapes were still sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess, but in 1991 the family began to make their own wine under the Brutocao Cellars label. The Lion of St. Mark, modeled after the lion atop St. Mark’s Cathedral in Venice, is their symbol of family tradition and quality.

The Schoolhouse Red is bottled under the Bliss name to separate it from the Brutocao line and to honor Lona Bliss, the grandmother of the current owners. She served on school boards most of her life and was keenly interested in the education of her children and grandchildren. The wine is a fine blend of vintages and of grapes (Merlot and Cabernet with a touch of Zinfandel.) It has layers of ripe, juicy fruit flavors, a rich yet silky mouth feel, and smoky oak accents. Soft and generous, it is perfect with pizza, pasta, and pork. This balanced wine (only 13.5% alcohol) won a gold medal at the Orange County Fair and silvers at the New World International Wine Competition and the Pacific Rim International Wine Competition. Serve it with game hens, capon, or red meats.

Almost alone among the top ten wine producing countries, Portugal continues to make mostly traditional wines using mostly traditional, indigenous (there are some 500!) grape varietals. The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Greeks introduced wine making to the Iberian Peninsula, but it was to Rome during the Roman Empire that Portugal first exported wine. Modern exports developed with trade to England after a treaty in 1703. France’s AOC and Italy’s DOC are better known, but Portugal was the first country to institute an appellation control system.

Pinot Grigio is technically a red varietal which lost its pigmentation due to the spontaneous and frequent mutation of Pinot Noir. Grigio translates as “gray.” The grapes are mostly gray, but the color is inconsistent, ranging from pink to pale gray to dark gray. Pinot Grigio grows throughout northern and central Italy where it does very well at high altitudes. It has become almost ubiquitous throughout Europe under the name of Pinot Gris in most of France, Tokay D’Alsace in Alsace, Malvoise and Pinot Belrot in the Loire, Rulander in Germany, and Szurkebarat in Hungary. Enjoy it chilled and young.