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El Coto de Rioja Blanco, 2008 Like other Rioja wineries, El Coto is best known for its red wines, and we carry the basic Crianza as well as the Imaz Reserva. Both are excellent wines and excellent values. El Coto also makes this light, clean, tasty, and unoaked white wine from 100% Viura grapes. It has a pretty aroma faintly reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc. This is a lively and refreshing wine with a soft texture and a lingering, slightly tart finish of flowers and herbs. It pairs beautifully with seafood and light main dish salads such as Lemony Tuna Pasta Salad. The alcohol is a modest 12.5%. The El Coto winery, located in the Spanish town of Oyón (Álava), began production with the 1970 vintage. The vineyards are located in Rioja Alta, the best of Rioja's three subdistricts. The specific town is Cenicero which lies close to the Najerilla River, a tributary of the Ebro. The vineyards face northwest, and the soil here is predominantly ferric-clay. El Coto also purchases some red grapes and all of its white grapes from the Rioja Alavesa subdistrict. The 2008 vintage was unusual. The vineyards were very healthy as they awakened from their winter slumber. The leaf canopy developed well, but spring rainfall was above normal. This ensured sufficient water for the needs of the vines, but the risk of cryptogamic disease had to be vigilantly managed and flower set was irregular with fewer grapes per cluster than normal. This typically portends lower yields and higher quality with looser grapes in each bunch; thus the grapes are less subject to disease later in the season and should ripen better. However, Mother Nature is not so predictable, and ripening in 2008 was irregular; the various sections of each vineyard ripened at different times. The Control Board, which makes recommendations, suggested selective harvesting over a longer period than usual. Although El Coto's harvesting began at a leisurely pace close to the traditional date for Rioja (September 11th in Aldeanueva de Ebro for Viura), it did not end until November 10th!
Castelo de Medina Sauvignon
Blanc, 2007 The red wines of Spain are quite well known, but the white wines deserve more attention. The Albariños of Galicia have gotten some play, but most wine lovers are unaware of the delicious Verdehos and Sauvignon Blancs from Atlantic-influenced Rueda. Located northwest of Madrid and just southwest of Ribera del Duero, Rueda was a battle ground between Moors and Christians in the 10th century. As such it was devastated and depopulated. In a last effort to save the region from complete destruction, Alfonso XI decreed that anyone working the land would gain ownership of it. Monastic orders arrived and began planting grapes and making Sherry-style wines from the native Verdejo grape. In the 20th century Rueda suffered during the Spanish Civil War and Franco's dictatorship. It remained a vinous backwater until Marquis de Riscal, the famed Rioja winery whose new Frank Gehry-designed facility alone is worth a visit, purchased land there in 1971. Riscal revolutionized the region with new ideas and technology. Rueda has since become known for delightful, fresh, and fruity white wines from the Verdejo grape (as opposed to unfashionable, Sherry style wines). Riscal also tried Sauvignon Blanc in Rueda and discovered that it blended sublimely with Verdejo. These days Rueda is quite successful and produces wines that are regularly compared to French Sancerres and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. While the Sancerre comparison may be a stretch, the value is undeniable. The Castelo de Medina winery was founded in 1996 and features cutting edge technology. Vineyards cover 470 acres (85% planted to white varietals). The winery was built in traditional Castilian architectural style: face brick, stone, wrought iron, and wood. Medina's Sauvignon Blanc stands out in its price range for complexity and sheer class. Pale straw in color, it shows aromas of tropical fruits such as banana, pineapple, and passion fruit as well as flavors that are varietal yet restrained and integrated. The overall balance is remarkable and the finish lingers. Its price slightly exceeds our usual range, but this compelling gold medal winner (Vinalies Internationales - Paris) exceeds the quality of other Sauvignon Blancs under $15. Try it with Shrimp and White Wine, a Spanish dish that includes some Serrano ham!
Clerget Pont du Rhône Côtes du
Rhône, 2007 It's difficult to get a bad meal or a bad wine in a French restaurant. Every bistro offers basic Appellation Controlée wines that are inexpensive yet competent and true to type. This Côtes du Rhône is a step above those basic bistro offerings because 2007 was an excellent vintage in the Rhône. A delicious blend of 40% Grenache, 30% Syrah, and 30% Mourvèdre, this wine shows good fruit with anise, pine, and pepper overtones and nicely balanced tannins. It may not send critics on a brain-stressing search for descriptors (melted asphalt, raw meat, and the like), but darn if it isn't a tasty little thing that will nicely compliment red meats and mature cheeses. Try it with Chicken with 40 Cloves of Garlic. And it's hard to beat the value! Red wines from the southern Rhône may be made from any of 13 different grape varietals, but Grenache must comprise at least 40% of the blend. Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Cinsault are also commonly used. The AOC Côtes du Rhône region stretches 200 km from Vienne in the north to Avignon and from the foothills of the Massif Central in the west to the fore-slopes of the Vaucluse and Luberon mountains. Some 171 communes have 83,839 hectares of vineyards with an average yield of 52 hectoliters/ha. The annual production of 419 million bottles comes from 5,202 growers, 875 private producers, 70 co-op wineries, and 20 merchant/producers, making CDR one of the largest single appellation regions in the world. Wines have been produced in the region since pre-Roman times, and those from the right bank were the favorite wines of kings and the papal community in Avignon at the time of the schism. In the mid 17th century the right-bank district of Côte du Rhône had issued regulations to govern the quality of its wine, and in 1737 the king ordered that casks of wine shipped from the nearby river port of Roquemaure should be branded with the letters CDR to introduce a system of origin protection. The rules for Côte du Rhône thus formed the very early basis of today's nationwide AOC system governed by the INAO. The name was changed to Côtes du Rhône when the left-bank wines were included in the appellation some hundred years later.
Nine Stones Barossa Valley Shiraz, 200 8$13.49/bottle - $145.69/case Australia's beautiful Barossa Valley, about 30 miles northeast of Adelaide, is 19 miles long and varies from two miles to 6.5 miles wide with an altitude ranging from 550 feet above sea level at Lyndoch to 1900 feet at Pewsey Vale. The warm climate is close to that of Portugal. There are a number of different climatic subregions, but the full-bodied reds for which the valley is famous come invariably from the valley floor. It is quite an arid region with an annual average rainfall of only 20 inches. Summer evaporation can also be extreme. There is some water available from bores and wells, but the amount is usually restricted. Named by a Colonel Light after the region in Spain ("Hill of Roses") where he fought in the Spanish Peninsula War, Barossa was settled by German Lutherans fleeing religious persecution in the 1840s. Well known names such as Burge Family, Ch. Yaldarra, Cockatoo Ridge, Elderton, Hardys, Henschke, Jacobs Creek, Penfolds, Wolf Blass, Peter Lehmann, Saltram, St. Hallett, Yalumba, and Seppelts are based in the Barossa Valley and are among the eighty-plus wineries and five hundred-plus grape growers that contribute to the ongoing reputation of the region. Nine Stones began as a collaboration between Denis Power and Len Evans, a well-known wine educator and raconteur. Both men are of Celtic origin and the name Nine Stones derives from the ancient Celtic custom of creating circular patterns of standing stones. Groups of nine standing stones still remain in parts of Scotland and Ireland. Since Len's death in 2006, Denis has continued the work of the Evans Wine Company. Sourced from the middle and upper reaches of the valley, Nine Stones Barossa Shiraz is a richly flavored, supple, and ripe wine that shows the quality and style of Barossa fruit in a slightly lighter format than the more expensive wines for which Barossa is famous. The aromas and flavors profile blackberry, dark cherry, and chocolate notes. Wine Spectator: 89 "Ripe and generous, not heavy but brimming with fresh blackberry and blueberry fruit, shaded with dusky spice and leather notes. The finish sails on nicely. Best from 2011 through 2016." Serve it with lamb or beef.
Carivin Reserve Old Vines
Tempranillo 07 Carivin Reserve OV Tempranillo comes from a Spanish vineyard planted in 1962. It is a juicy, full-flavored, and ripe wine that is soft and very appealing. Its wood aging was probably done in used casks, for the flavor profile is not obviously oaky, but the texture is nicely rounded. Serve this hearty wine with hearty food such as Baby Lamb Shoulders. Spain has more acreage under vine than any other country, and it continues to produce some of the world’s best wine values. Many seemingly new districts, such as Cariñera, are simply exporting wine for the first time. The name refers to a town and surrounding area in the historic region of Aragon where the Romans established the town of Carae. The locals here had been mixing wine with mead since the 3rd century BCE. Medieval vineyards flourished under monastery protection and by the 16th century occupied 50% of Zaragoza province. The wines were famous, and a wine fountain was set up for the visit of King Philip II in 1585. The birthplace of Francisco di Goya, this area is located 170 miles due west of Barcelona and 25 miles south-west of the Zaragoza city. Cariñena gave its name to the grape that is called Mazuelo elsewhere in northern Spain and Carignan in France. Once known mostly for rosés and Moscatels, Cariñera wines have recently been reshaped to modern tastes. Exports have quadrupled since 1995, and a new government research station has helped to modernize production here. The vineyards lie on a 400-meter plain south of the River Ebro known as the Campo de Cariñena. The plain rises southward to 800 meters where it meets the Sierra de la Virgen. In the west, the vineyards are adjacent to those of Calatayud DO. Reddish-brown limestone topsoils cover a loose, rocky subsoil with plenty of calcium carbonate and sections with slate and alluvial soils. Temperatures are extreme in this harsh continental climate: in summer they rise to 38ºC and in winter they fall to -8°C. The ‘cierzo’ winds from the north help keep humidity low, but growers are challenged by hail, high wind, and excessive summer heat. Occasional drought and the day-night temperature contrast help to give the grapes their intense flavor. Although the DO was originally associated with the Cariñena grape, today the region is planted with 55% Garnacha (used for red and rosé wines), 20% Viura (white wines), and 15% Tempranillo. Experiments are also underway with grapes such as Chardonnay and Parellada.
In the late 1930s Irv Bliss was drawn to
Mendocino County by its beautiful rolling hills and unspoiled land. He found
himself on Old Toll Road looking out over a picturesque ranch that he dreamed of
acquiring. Years later Irv heard of a Mendocino property for sale. He gathered
all his savings and headed to the auction to bid on the property sight unseen.
As fate would have it, the land Irv purchased was the original 450 acre ranch
that had captivated him. The ranch consisted of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but
most of the land was used for raising livestock. Irv gradually planted more
vines, and by the 1970s he was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and
Zinfandel. All the grapes were sold to established wineries. He purchased more
land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as
well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600
acres of grapes.
Almost alone among the
top ten wine producing countries, Portugal continues to make mostly traditional
wines using mostly traditional, indigenous (there are some 500!) grape
varietals. The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Greeks introduced wine making to
the Iberian Peninsula, but it was to Rome during the Roman Empire that Portugal
first exported wine. Modern exports developed with trade to England after a
treaty in 1703. France’s AOC and Italy’s DOC are better known, but Portugal
was the first country to institute an appellation control system. Although maintaining Portuguese
tradition, Quinta da Cortezia has modernized to some extent with a new and well
equipped facility. Cortezia is experimenting with some international grape
varieties (Merlot and Chardonnay among others), but the focus is on traditional
Portuguese red (Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roritz - the local name for
Tempranillo) and white (Arinto and Fernão Pires) varietals. The Vinha Conchas
brand is used for value wines; the Quinta da Cortezia label is used for their
“reserve” wines.
Wente Sauvignon Blanc
“Louis Mel,” 2008 This very attractive, grassy-colored Sauvignon Blanc has fig, melon, gooseberry, pineapple, and citrus aromas and flavors. The crisp, clean finish makes it wonderfully refreshing and food-friendly. A blend of 99% Sauv Blanc and 1% Muscat Canelli, it comes from several sustainably farmed vineyards across the Livermore Valley. The grapes were harvested at a relatively low sugar level to retain the natural acidity and keep the alcohol in check. The wine was fermented and then aged in stainless steel tanks for nearly a year before bottling; it saw no wood. The historic Wente Vineyards is California’s oldest family-owned and continuously operated winery. Founded in 1883 by Charles H. Wente and today managed by the fourth and fifth generations of the Wente family, it is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year! After learning about winemaking from Charles Krug, Wente, an immigrant from Germany, recognized that the warm days, cool nights, and gravelly soils of the Livermore Valley (east-south-east of San Francisco) were ideal for growing grapes. He purchased 48 acres and planted vineyards. Today the winery grows grapes on 2700 acres. The benchmarks for Sauvignon Blanc are the crisp, dry white wines of France’s Loire Valley (Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé) and of Bordeaux (Graves and Haut-Médoc, where it is blended with Semillon). The United States and New Zealand have also had recent success, but Sauvignon historically has had trouble being considered on a par with the great white wines made from Chardonnay and Riesling. It is difficult to make great Sauvignon Blanc because of its very strong personality. As its name implies (Sauvignon = sauvage = savage), vintners have had to learn to control its tendency to make aggressive, green, and bitter wines. The grape first came to the U.S. in 1858, when Charles Wente and neighbor Louis Mel (Murietta’s Well) planted it in Livermore. Through his wife’s childhood connections with the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, Mel imported cuttings of Sauvignon and Semillon from the famous Chateau d’Yquem. In those days, farming neighbors didn’t run to their patent attorney when they had a new idea; they shared it. The grapes flourished in the gravelly soil, but Sauv Blanc failed to make an impact on the public until around 1970. The late Robert Mondavi produced a beauty, but found that consumers wouldn’t buy his wine until he renamed it “Fumé Blanc!”
Morellino
di Scansano “Anteo,” Everyone
knows Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, Tuscany’s most famous red wines.
Most wine lovers are also familiar with the “SuperTuscans” and even Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano. But Morellino di Scansano is obscure. It is made in the
hilly environs of the coastal village of Scansano in the Maremma. Morellino is
the local name for Sangiovese. It may also be related to Morello (brown), the
color of Maremmano horses. The wine, which was granted DOC status in 1978 and
upgraded to DOCG status with the 2007 vintage, is made from at least 85%
Sangiovese. The remainder can comprise any non-aromatic black grape varietal
included in a list made and periodically updated by the Regione Toscana local
authorities. Wines
from this region were historically excellent, but lacking noble lords found in
other towns such as Montalcino, the people from Scansano never developed precise
and strict rules for making their wine. The DOC does not require wood aging for
Morellino, so versions range from unoaked, simple fruit bombs to more
structured, wood-tamed beauties. Ironically one of the very best Morellino di
Scansano (Castello Romitorio) is actually produced by a winery that is based in
the town of Montalcino. Riccardo
Azara created Rocca dei Venti in 1999. He named this wine after Anteo, the
Giant, son of Era (the Greek earth god), immortal as long as his feet stay in
touch with the mother earth. The 2004 Anteo was made from relatively low
yielding vines due to the practice of green harvest. It was fermented in
stainless steel and aged 4-6 months in wood. The Italian wine magazine Gambero
Rosso gave the 2004 Anteo two glasses (out of three possible). Serve this
medium-bodied, dry red wine with braised pork, red
meat, roasts, and cheese.
Deen De Bortoli Pinot
Noir Vat 10, 2008
Good Pinot Noir is inherently more expensive
than other varietals because it is usually grown in small vineyards and must be
made in small batches. Most Pinots in the price range of our monthly selection
suffer from either weak quality or a lack of varietal character. De Bortoli has the advantage of extensive vineyard ownership
in four regions of Australia including Pinot Noir holdings in the cool Yarra
Valley of Victoria. De Bortoli produces several top quality (and top price!)
Pinot Noirs, so they have the grapes and can make some intelligent compromises
to produce an inexpensive Pinot that far surpasses the competition. For example,
instead of machine harvesting as is usually done, 50% of the grapes for this
wine were hand-harvested. Tank aging is the norm, but 5% of this wine was aged
in barrique. That doesn’t sound like much, but it makes a difference.
Destemming the grape clusters is common, but De Bortoli uses 15% whole cluster
(with the stems intact) for added complexity. The result is a wine with varietal character on both the nose and the palate.
It is a pretty wine with some complexity and a reasonably lengthy finish. Josh
Raynolds wrote about it in Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar:
“Archetypical pinot aromas encompass a range of red berries, cherry, musky
underbrush, flowers, and baking spices. Juicy strawberry, cherry, and smoked
meat flavors are impressively pure and brisk, carrying though to a bright,
energetic finish. An elegant, light-bodied pinot, and a good value.” Pinot
Noir works well with white meats, but it is also very appropriate with fish. Try
this beauty with James Beard’s Fish Fillet
Provençal. The story of the De Bortoli winery began when Vittorio De Bortoli left
war-ravaged Italy for Australia in 1924. He worked on a farm, lived in a shack
under a water tank, and tended his own small vegetable patch. By 1927 he had
saved enough to buy a 55-acre mixed fruit farm. A grape glut in 1928 meant
Vittorio could not sell his grapes, so he began making table wine, a Shiraz.
Today the third generation is in charge, and the fourth generation is learning
the ropes. Deen is the son of Vittorio and Giuseppina. More details are at www.debortoli.com.au.
If you haven't yet tried an Austrian Grüner Veltliner, you really should! Now in its third millennium, Austrian viticulture is much more than a
wonderful accompaniment to the music of Mozart, Schubert, Strauss, and Mahler.
Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted and most important grape in
Austria. Given its potential quality, it is somewhat surprising that Grüner
Veltliner (GrüVe for short) is limited to central and eastern European
countries where it is also called Veltlin Zelene and Veltlini. Productive and
rather hardy, although late-ripening, GrüVe is known for producing crisp and
fresh wines that have notes of pepper, spices, and sometimes grapefruit. When
aged properly, it can improve for many years in the bottle, sometimes taking on
the exotic fruit character of an aged Burgundy. The best examples come from the
Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal regions of Austria. It is a great match for
Asian-inspired cuisine and spicy dishes. The Fuchs (pronounced FOOKS with a slight softening of the ‘K’) Winery
was founded in 1876 and is currently run by two brothers. Their land holdings
consist of the ancestral vineyard (Winery Styria), which is situated in the
South of Styria near the Slovenian border. A more recently developed vineyard,
the source of our featured wine, is located in Podersdorf near the Neusiedlersee
in the province of Burgenland. Lake Neusiedl is the only middle European steppe
lake, and its eastern shore is almost entirely planted with vines. The Fuchs
brothers own 14 hectares (35 acres) of vineyards and contract with other grape
growers for a total annual production of 25,000 cases. The brothers believe that
each vineyard has its own character and requires individual care. Although they
use modern winery procedures, their focus is on vineyard management and careful
grape selection. The 2006 Fuchs GrüVe has more body, weight, fruit, and finish than most inexpensive Grüner Veltliners. It pairs well with grilled salmon and other seafood. Medium-bodied, with hints of citrus and apple, it’s also excellent served as an apéritif. Valdo Prosecco Extra Dry Prosecco has recently become quite popular, but
most of the people who drink it have no idea what it is or where it comes from.
Prosecco is a grape varietal that is grown in the Veneto district of northern
Italy. The white Prosecco grape carries with it a slight natural bitterness, so
it is rarely made into a table wine. It is most often fermented twice to make a
sparkling wine with just enough residual sugar to hide its bitterness. There are
some dry versions, but only the best of these are consistently successful.
Prosecco ranges from lightly sparkling (frizzante) to quite bubbly (spumanti).
DOC regulations require that a sparkling wine labeled Prosecco must contain at
least 85% of the Prosecco grape; four other local varietals are also permitted. Unlike Champagne, which is made by a time consuming and
expensive process called Mèthode Champenoise, the better Proseccos are
made by a quicker, cheaper method called “Charmat” or bulk process (many
cheap Proseccos, like soda pop, are made with carbon dioxide injection). In 1907
Eugene Charmat, a Frenchman, invented a glass-lined tank where the wine, in
bulk, stays under constant pressure from the second fermentation through
filtering and bottling. Unlike Mèthode Champenoise, in which the second
fermentation in individual bottles can take from 17 months to seven years, the
Charmat process takes as little as three months from picking to bottling. The
best Charmat producers will use a six-month process. Although unknown in the U.S., Valdo (www.valdo.com) is Italy’s
largest Prosecco producer. The grapes come from Valdobbiadene, the best part of
the Prosecco-making district within Veneto. The winery is owned by the Bolla
family which is best known in this country for their Valpolicella, Bardolino,
and Soave. Valdo uses a modified Charmat technique whereby the wine is
superchilled before bottling to retain the bubbles. Ice chips actually form and
go into the bottle with the rest of the wine. The chips melt as the bottle
returns to cellar temperature. Valdo produces an Extra Brut (up to 6 grams of sugar per liter)
and a Brut (<15 g/l), but this Extra Dry (12 to 20 g/l) has the best balance.
Pear and apple notes are discernible in this lovely sparkler that is perfect as
an apèritif, for Mimosas, or for the increasingly popular Bellini.
Casa Santos Lima 4uVas, 2005 Portugal - the last frontier? It seems so. Many countries that
20 years ago seemed unlikely to become popular sources for good wines have today
a loyal following. Argentina, Australia, Chile, New Zealand, and Spain are
obvious examples. But Portugal has generally not made the leap to modern-styled
wine and modern marketing methods. Instead of adopting the standard varietals
(Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay, and Sauv Blanc), Portugal
remains focused on traditional red varietals such as the Castelão (Periquita),
Alfrocheiro, Camarate, and Trincadeira that comprise our featured wine. The
Portuguese believe they are doing it right; the rest of the world just hasn’t
caught on. Meanwhile Portuguese wines represent great value. Casa Santos Lima is situated in Alenquer, approximately 28
miles north of Lisbon, in a very traditional wine region with a typically
Portuguese rural landscape. The company has been family owned for several
generations and was founded by Joaquim Santos Lima at the turn of the 19th
century. The company produced apples, pears, and prunes, but the vineyards have
always been most important. And perhaps because Joaquim was first an exporter,
the company has always been attuned to the demands of foreign markets. In fact
more than 90% of their production is exported to thirty countries. A bit more
progressive than most Portuguese wineries, Casa Santos Lima adopted numerous
20th century technologies and recently adopted the multi-brand marketing
strategy that is taken for granted in the rest of the wine world. The
vineyards are located on gentle slopes between 360 and 720 feet above sea level
with excellent sun exposure and a climate tempered by the breezes from the
Atlantic Ocean about 15 miles away. Portugal receives most of its rainfall from
October to April; the summer months are generally dry. This forces the vines to
penetrate deep into the earth for moisture and nutrients. The name 4uVas refers to the four varietals used to make this dry, flavorful wine. Half of the grapes were picked by hand, the remainder by machine. Temperature controlled fermentation took place in stainless steel vats with programmed pump over and a 28-day maceration. After 3-4 months in oak barrels, the resulting wine is very attractive with medium fruit and a soft texture. A touch of tannin and acidity give the finish a certain liveliness. Although it is quite dry, there is a hint of Port-like character which is probably not surprising considering the grape varietals used. With only 12.5% alcohol, this food-friendly wine begs for chili and red meats.
Pomelo Sauvignon Blanc, 200 9$12.99/bottle - $139.99/case Pomelo is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc, cold tank-fermented,
unoaked beauty made by Randy Mason. Mason Vineyards makes a terrific (and more
expensive) Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, but this offering is from grapes
purchased from three young vineyards in Kelsyville, Lake County, an
up-and-coming region that is just over the hill from Napa's
St. Helena. Relatively low yields - five tons per acre is
unusual for a wine in this price range - are part of the reason for the intense
flavor and appealing texture of this wine. With a clear, silvery straw color,
Pomelo Sauvignon Blanc has a stylish bouquet of grapefruit, lemon grass, and
star anise. This unoaked wine is snappy, fresh, and clean. It has great
herbaceous character, but it avoids the aggressiveness of many Sauvignon Blancs.
The high quality of this wine belies its moderate price. Serve it with a wide range of salads, pastas, chicken, and seafood. It's
particularly good with Pasta with Smoked Salmon. Why the name Pomelo? The pomelo is a giant type of citrus fruit native to Malaysia and thought to be an ancestor to the grapefruit. The wine has such lovely nuances of grapefruit that the name and the three colorful pomelos on the label are entirely appropriate. And “Pomelo” is just fun to say (pronounced Pom-a-low). The label was created by a San Francisco artist, Ann Rea, whose color saturated landscapes and contemplated still life paintings are commended by Wayne Thiebeaud. Randy Mason has worn many hats since earning degrees in Fermentation Science and Animal Science at UC-Davis. Although he had planned to be a veterinarian, like many others he was bitten by the wine bug and went to work at Chappellet Winery, eventually becoming their vineyard manager. Randy later designed the new Lakespring Winery where he became their general manager and winemaker. In 1993 he went to work for the Pelissa/Hoxsey family to reconstruct and convert an old Inglenook winery in Oakville into a premiere custom crushing winery. He served this Napa Wine Company as general manager and C.E.O. At the same time, he and his wife, Megan, founded Mason Vineyards.
$11.99/bottle - $128.99/case Five Rivers is a label and winery owned by wine and spirits giant Brown-Forman ($2.1 billion in 2005). B-F also owns and markets Korbel, Bolla, Fetzer, Sonoma-Cutrer, Bonterra, Jekel, and Fontana Candida. B-F also controls such liquor staples as Jack Daniel’s, Southern Comfort, Finlandia, Early Times, Appleton rum, and Chambord. They just announced the acquisition of Herradura tequila. Brown-Forman has enormous resources, access to numerous vineyards throughout California, and the economies of scale to keep prices relatively low. Although they usually focus on mass-appeal wines, they sometimes come up with higher-than-expected quality such as this fine little Cabernet from Paso Robles. After a three-day cold soak to maximize flavor and color extraction, the fermenting juice was racked daily and pumped over twice a day. The wine was aged 14 months in 50% new French, American, and Hungarian oak. Try it with grilled beef or lamb. The name “Five Rivers” pays homage to the five major rivers that define the essence of the Central Coast of California: the San Benito, Salinas, Santa Maria, Santa Ynez, and Sisquoc Rivers. Over time the Central Coast mountain ranges have folded, faulted, and metamorphosed into a unique geology creating a winemaking ecosystem like no other. The cool sea air of the Pacific Ocean strikes a balance with the intense summer heat creating an ideal climate and long growing season for growing intense varietal wines. Head winemaker Steve Peck, who has lived his whole life in Five Rivers country, describes himself as a former wild child and surfer. He modeled himself after Sean Penn’s character in the 1982 hit film Fast Times at Ridgemont High before getting serious about life and wine. After graduating from UC Davis with a degree in winemaking and chemical engineering, Steve worked three years at Joseph Phelps Vineyards before moving to Brown-Forman.
Sella & Mosca “La Cala” Vermentino, 200 6$12.99/bottle $140.99/case Sardinia, the second largest island in the
Mediterranean, is one of Europe’s most desirable holiday destinations. It
boasts more than 1,800 km of coastline contoured by rugged cliffs, hidden coves,
and glorious beaches. Sardinia’s history can be traced back thousands of
years, and the island is rich in archaeological sites including dolmen stone
relics and nuraghe - squat, round stone towers believed to be ancient forts.
Originally settled by the Phoenicians, it was later occupied by the
Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Byzantines, Saracens, Pisans, Spanish,
Austrians, and the Kingdom of Savoia. It finally becoming a self-governing
region of Italy in 1948.
Wine has been made here since long before the
Romans arrived in 238 BCE. By the 16th century, Sardinia was known as insuli
vini (wine island). By the 20th century, it was exporting its powerful wines to
France and “the continent” (as the islanders call the Italian mainland) to
boost the weaker northern wines. High yields and bland but strong wines ruled
until the 1980s, when lower yields and native character began to be emphasized
by a handful of wineries. Today more than 70 estates produce quality wines. The La Cala brand is the ultimate definition of the Vermentino grape. It is named for a small, secluded cove on the edge of the estate. Few wines rival La Cala for its exceptional affinity with shellfish and seafood thanks to the very subtle presence of natural salinity in the wine. This Vermentino is elegant and supple with a fullness of flavor and good underlying acidity. Vinification is somewhat unusual in that after harvest, selected grape bunches undergo a brief, natural drying process before pressing.
El Coto Rioja Crianza, 200 5$11.99/bottle - $129.49/case Just when you thought you were safe from Spanish
wines, along comes another beauty. It’s been a long time since we’ve been
able to find a good Rioja in a price range appropriate for our Wine of the Month
program. The Spanish wines we’ve featured over the last two years have been
the new style from warm regions. They feature intense, ripe fruit and
substantial alcohol. El Coto Rioja is a more traditional, elegant red
wine. Because of its high altitude, Rioja is one of Spain’s coolest wine
regions. Tempranillo, a varietal that has had little success in other countries,
shines here with its interplay between delicate berry fruit and spicier, more
leathery flavor components. When made traditionally with extensive oak aging, it
is rounded in texture with soft tannins, versatility, and appealingly ripe but
not heavily extracted fruit. Many Rioja producers blend other grapes with
Tempranillo, but El Coto Rioja Crianza is 100% Tempranillo. Serve it with veal,
chicken, pork, or grilled vegetables. Decant
or air it at least one hour. The Wine Enthusiast rated the 2001 El
Coto Crianza a “Best Buy - An easy and simple display of Rioja in fresh
form,” it won the 2004 Critic’s Challenge International Wine Challenge
“Critic’s Award,” and the Wine Spectator called it “a silky red,
light but graceful, with focused flavors of cherry, spice, and vanilla flavors.
In the traditional style, but fresh and clean.” El Coto de Rioja vinified its first grapes in 1970, and the first bottling was released in 1975. The bodega is now the number-one wine brand in Spain and is one of the top-selling Spanish wines throughout Europe. El Coto owns nearly 70,000 American oak barrels which they use for eight years. The winery was completely overhauled in 1996 with state-of-the-art equipment. El Coto’s vineyards are northwest-facing on mostly ferric clay soil in Cenicero (Rioja Alta) next to the east bank of the river Najerilla. Additional grapes come from selected vineyard owners from the Rioja Alavesa. All facilities at the bodega are humidity and temperature controlled so that both the oak cask and bottle aging processes take place in optimal conditions. Rioja Crianza must be aged in oak for a minimum of 12 months. Reservas require 24 months.
Adagio Pinot Grigio, 2007
Adagio (a-dá-jo or a-dá-je-ó) - [Italian ad-, at + agio, ease] 1. Music. A slow passage, movement, or work, especially one using adagio as the direction. 2. Dance. A section of a pas de deux in which the ballerina and her partner perform steps requiring lyricism and great skill in lifting, balancing, and turning. At ease, lyricism, balance: the perfect summer concept! The Botter family winery is a significant winery in Fossalta di Piave near the Piave River, about 20 miles northeast of Venice. They produce custom blends of high quality for numerous importers such as Verdoni Imports in Hawthorne. I’ve known Anthony Verdoni for 25 years, and we’ve shared a love of wine for all that time. A Renaissance man, he formerly sang opera and taught classics. Now he’s an importer of Italian wines. Who knows what’s next! Anthony contracts with the Botter family to
provide this delicious wine. We get it directly from the importer, so the price
is great. The grapes originate on the slopes with the best geographic positions
near the Piave River. The grapes are rushed to the winery, cold-fermented, and
aged in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks to preserve their fresh,
fruity character. Adagio Pinot Grigio has the texture and structure to grace
fish or fowl dishes; yet it is light enough to enjoy as an aperitif. Its clean
taste and mouth-filling texture are followed by a crisp finish. Try it with Orzo
Pasta Salad Pinot Grigio is technically a red varietal which lost its pigmentation due to the spontaneous and frequent mutation of Pinot Noir. Grigio translates as “gray.” The grapes are mostly gray, but the color is inconsistent, ranging from pink to pale gray to dark gray. Pinot Grigio grows throughout northern and central Italy where it does very well at high altitudes. It has become almost ubiquitous throughout Europe under the name of Pinot Gris in most of France, Tokay D’Alsace in Alsace, Malvoise and Pinot Belrot in the Loire, Rulander in Germany, and Szurkebarat in Hungary. Enjoy it chilled and young .
Torre
di Luna Pinot Grigio, 2008
Pinot
Grigio now rivals Chardonnay for popularity among white wines. The vast majority
of wines made from this grape come from Italy, but its origin is actually in
France’s Burgundy district. Pinot Noir readily mutates, and centuries ago,
when a newly planted Pinot Noir vine began producing grapes, they were found to
be without color. This curiosity was named Pinot Gris. Other mutations came
along and were named Pinot Blanc (Bianco*) and Pinot Auxxerois. These varietals
were not taken seriously in Burgundy, but they found a home in Alsace, and Pinot
Gris found popularity in northern Italy where it was called Pinot Grigio. Pinot
Grigio grows best in Italy’s cool north-eastern regions of Trentino and Alto
Adige. Torre di Luna produces 15,000 cases yearly of this 100% Pinot Grigio in
Trentino. Their 31-acre southwest-facing vineyard is at an altitude of 300
meters. The grapes are hand-picked, and the best are used for the Torre di Luna
label. The rest are sold off. Oenologist Goffredo Pasolli ferments at controlled
temperatures for 8-9 days in stainless steel vats. The wine is then aged on the
lees for 6 months, cold-filtered, and bottled. The lees aging adds to the
wine’s character and its gold highlights. On the palate, it is dry,
full-bodied, and harmonious with a delicate aroma. Robert
Parker raved about the
2003: “85.
Consistently one of the best bargains in high quality Pinot Grigio. Torre di
Luna’s fresh, lively, medium-bodied, soft 2003 possesses good fruit as well as
an easy-going personality designed to please both neophytes and connoisseurs.” Torre di Luna rightly suggests serving this wine at 50˚ F! Many people serve their white wines too cold (and their red wines too warm) and thus miss out on some of the delicious flavors and balance that are evident at the proper temperature. Torre di Luna Pinot Grigio would be delicious with Fish Tacos or other light to medium fare.
Li Veli "Passamante" Salento Rosso, 200 5$12.99/bottle - $139.19/case The
Romans called Apulia “Enotria,” or the land of wine. Enotria was the most
important vineyard in the empire; it was the Left Bank of Imperial Rome. To deal
with Apulia’s hot, windy, and stressful climatic conditions, the ancient
Romans developed a unique trellising technique. In the ‘alberello’ system,
the vines are very close to the ground and are head-trained whereby no wires are
used. Four shoots are allowed to grow at angles that keep the bush symmetrical,
and the shoots are kept closely pruned. The vines are planted in a pattern of
equal-sided triangles creating a hexagonal arrangement where one plant has eight
others all around it. Although
Apulia was the jewel of the Roman wine empire, the regions of northern Italy
later surpassed it, and by the 19th century Apulia and the rest of southern
Italy had a reputation for rustic, coarse, “red sauce” wines that couldn’t
compete with northern wines for finesse and balance. In fact, in the days when
regulations were ignored with impunity, many southern Italian wines were used to
‘beef up’ the weaker but better known northern wines. Li
Veli is the result of a partnership between three families: Guercia-Sammarco,
Maci, and Falvo. The Falvo brothers, Ettore and Alberto, are also the owners of
the famous Vino Nobile (Tuscany) property Avignonesi. The three families
purchased an historic farm in Apulia that had old vines of mostly Negroamaro,
which translates as “black and bitter.” At the beginning of the 20th
century, a famous Italian economist, Marquis Antonio de Viti de Marco, had
dreamed of turning this farm in Puglia into a model winery for the whole of
southern Italy. Li Veli Passamante Salento Rosso is made from 100% Negroamaro grapes from two separate DOC regions, Salice Salentino and Squinzano. This is a rich, robust, and flavorful wine that has remarkable elegance and balance. It would be perfect with Mushroom-Stuffed Eye of Round Roast
Salmon Run “Cold Brook White” Salmon Run is a label of the Dr. Konstantin Frank
Winery in New York’s Finger Lakes region. When Dr. Frank arrived in New York
City in 1951, the eastern U.S. wine industry was in a state of happy mediocrity.
Three of the 19 N.Y. wineries were the biggest in the United States (Taylor,
Great Western, and Gold Seal - none of which exist as wineries today)! They
believed that fine wines produced from the European Vitus vinifera grapes could
never be made in New York’s harsh climate. Dr. Frank introduced Riesling,
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Gewürztraminer, Cabernet Sauvignon, and the exotic
Rkatsiteli. The moderating influence of the lakes and special vineyard
techniques developed by Dr. Frank led to such success with these varietals that
most of the wineries east of the Rockies now have the confidence to grow
vinifera varieties.
$10.99/bottle - $118.69/case Sicily is a part of Italy that
many lovers of Italian wine do not take seriously. It is known as
the home of Corvo, a pleasant enough if unexciting wine. Sicily
is certainly one of the warmest parts of Italy. This alone would
put it in the “also ran” department, as hot climates
usually produce coarse wines. However, parts of Sicily and its
nearby islands are actually mountainous, with elevations and
cooling breezes that offer hope. In addition, the local varietals
are well suited to the conditions.
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