Bring Back the SOB’s - an essay on Sauvignon Blanc today
(By Norm Roby, Contributing Editor of the Wine Spectator)

   Recent surveys of vineyard activities in California's North Coast region point to one rather disturbing trend: It appears that Sauvignon Blanc is being left in the dust, due in part to the vineyard replanting which took place in response to phylloxera, and in part to being left out of the mix as new vineyards are laid out.
   When acreage of a variety steadily decreases during a boom period, it does not bode well for that grape. In every major region – Napa, Sonoma, Monterey – Sauvignon Blanc plantings are down 20 to 30 percent over the period from 1987 to 1996.
   The trend makes one wonder if Sauvignon Blanc is a varietal destined for the endangered species wine list. In the ultra-trendy world of wine, varietals come and go. But there is some-thing bizarre going on when the grape in question is Sauvignon Blanc. After all, we’re not talking Gray Riesling, Green Hungarian or Chenin Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc is a great grape.
   It put New Zealand and Cloudy Bay on the wine map, not to mention Sancerre and the great wines of Cotat and M. LaDoucette of Pouilly-Fumé. Last year, two of the finest California wines I encountered were the Robert Mondavi’s sensational 1995 Fumé Blanc, made from the 50-year-old I-Block Vineyard, and Dry Creek Vineyard’s glorious ‘95 Reserve Fumé, made from their original ten-acre block. Not far behind were Simi’s ‘95 Sendal, Murphy-Goode’s ‘95 Deuce II and Stonestreet’s Alexander Valley bottling. Most wine lovers would find it challenging to come up with five equally great American Viognier, Pinot Gris or Pinot Blanc.
So the problem with Sauvignon Blanc is not its lack of distinction. Nor does it lack a track record, especially when the above list can easily be expanded to include Sauvignons from Duckhorn, Beringer, Matanzas Creek and Quivira.

   As it turns out, the rumors of the grape’s demise are somewhat exaggerated. The recent acreage decline, which is severe in Napa Valley, centers on independent growers, many of whom are weekend vineyard owners. Indeed, they pass over Sauvignon Blanc and plant instead cash-cow varieties like Merlot and Chardonnay, or the sexy “new” varieties like Sangiovese, Syrah and Pinot Gris. One really can’t fault the professional growers for following the money. Even those weekend warriors – doctors, stockbrokers and the like – want some kind of return for having shelled out $40,000 per acre. To them, Sauvignon Blanc lacks panache.
   Some winemakers are now unable to secure sufficient Sauvignon Blanc for commercial production. William Hill winemaker Jill Davis is fond of Sauvignon Blanc, but, she is not making any. “After the 1995 vintage,” she recalls, “three of the Sauvignon vineyards I sourced from were pulled and replanted to reds. Every time I heard of a new source opening up, I would immediately contact the grower. But so did others – it was like a feeding frenzy.” As prices rose and availability declined, Davis opted to drop Sauvignon Blanc.
   “The problem with Sauvignon,” says Duckhorn winemaker Tom Rinaldi, “is that it is not red – it commands only half the price of red grapes.” He foresaw the shortage and lined up long-term grape contracts to maintain Duckhorn’s case production and market presence. The winery has replanted its home vineyard to Sauvignon Blanc, which will come on line next year.

   In Sonoma County, the decline from 1987 to 1996 was close to 20 percent – not alarming but a bit unnerving. In 1996 and 1997, however, a number of new Sauvignon Blanc acres were established within the county, signaling a possible end to the slide.
   Individual wineries are leading the rebound. Winemaker Nick Goldschmidt notes that Simi has planted some acreage of its own, trying to keep production steady (about 25,000 cases per year). At Ferrari-Carano, which has an even bigger stake in its Fumé Blanc program, Winemaker George Bursick explains that as the winery has developed new vineyards and replanted old, it has become more self-sufficient with Sauvignon Blanc. The refrain is similar at Murphy-Goode, a winery that has put in a lot of Sauvignon during its replanting phase.
   Several years ago, a number of vintners known for their Sauvignon Blancs formed a group known as the SOBs (Society of Blancs), which has since fizzled and disappeared. Timing, as they say, is everything.

   There are now several Sauvignon Blancs made in relatively small quantities that are on the brink of becoming cult wines. It is just the kind of development the SOBs could have hung their hats on. Rochioli, known for its Pinot Noir, makes a stunning Sauvignon Blanc. The ‘97 is no exception, but the one to look for is the ‘97 Reserve, which has the makings of a cult wine.
   Mondavi’s I-Block Fumé Blanc, at $50 per bottle and only 300 cases produced, might have a better chance for cult status were it not for the fact that Mondavi, through its various joint ventures, has too many other $50 per bottle wines on the market.
   Murphy-Goode’s 1996 Fumé II, the Deuce ($24), is another Sauvignon destined for cult status. It is loaded with new oak and packed with power and layers of flavors. Yet another candidate is Stonestreet, which made an outstanding ‘95 Sauvignon Blanc ($20) from an old block of grapes on the former Gauer Ranch in Alexander Valley. This is also the vineyard Peter Michael has used for Sauvignon Blanc.
   Cult Sauvignon Blanc? Don’t dismiss the possibility.

E-Mail: beekman@conversent.net

Website Design ©Maron Marketing Consultants, Inc.