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Recent Changes in Bordeaux

[Those of us who have enjoyed Bordeaux over the years have noticed a change. The wines being made today are different than those that were made in the 1960s and 1970s. There are many reasons for this change. Some, myself included, would point to the “Parkerization” of the wines - deliberate changes in the vineyard and in vinification to obtain higher scores from Robert Parker whose personal palate rewards bigger, riper, fruitier wines. Even Parker has noticed the change, so we begin this series with an edited version of an article he wrote in issue #146 of The Wine Advocate. Note that he writes about them being better, not just different.]

Looking back over my tasting notes of the last quarter of a century, it is interesting to note how many truly legendary wines were produced in some of the most noteworthy vintages. Being as generous as possible, the 1945 Bordeaux vintage, considered to be one of the mythical vintages of the last one-hundred years, actually produced only 25-30 profoundly great wines. Even in 1982 (which established my reputation as a serious wine critic), the number of monumental reds is approximately three dozen. In 2000, according to my tastings, approximately 174 great wines - about 28-30% of what I tasted - were produced.

Why is modern-day Bordeaux so much better today? I have listed reasons in five categories: 1) progressive changes in the vineyard, 2) techniques and modern methods that take place in the wine cellars, 3) changes in the wine’s upbringing and bottling, 4) the competition that exists between wineries as well the role of the more informed customer as well as the influence of wine critics, and 5) miscellaneous changes such as improved weather forecasting.  

Significant changes in the vineyard
In the sixties and seventies, octogenarian professor, Dr. Emile Peynaud, and famed professor of oenology, Dr. Pascal Ribeau-Gayon, began advocating significant changes in viticultural management. Later harvest dates were encouraged in order to pick riper fruit with lower acid levels, sweeter tannin, and greater fruit characteristics. Later harvesting automatically produces wines lower in acidity and slightly higher in alcohol. If the harvest was not undone by rain, exceptional fruit and ripeness could be achieved.

Modern sprays and treatments aimed at preventing rot in the vineyard were also begun in the seventies and accelerated in the eighties. Recent good vintages such as 1978, 1979, 1983, 1994, and 2002 would undoubtedly have been destroyed by mildew in the fifties and sixties.

There has also been a renewed focus on the vineyard (where serious producers believe 90% of the quality emerges) to promote more organic techniques to encourage the health of the vines. A better understanding of viticulture led to new techniques. Originally called “extreme” or “radical” viticulture, these became standard practice in the late 1980s and 1990s. These included the curtailing of yields by aggressive pruning in the winter and spring and crop-thinning (cutting off bunches of grapes) in summer to encourage lower yields. Healthier vines should have increased yields, but in fact the top estates significantly decreased production from 60-100 hectoliters per hectare in the mid-eighties to 25-50 hl/ha in recent vintages. Other radical viticulture techniques have also been implemented. These include leaf pulling (to encourage air flow as well as more sun exposure) and the ongoing research with clones and root stocks designed to eliminate heavy yields and large berries. Harvesting is also done with more care and in smaller containers designed to prevent bruising and skin breakage.

Today the Bordeaux vineyards are healthier, have lower vigor, and are producing smaller berries and crops of higher quality fruit. All of this is designed to produce the essence of the terroir, enhance the character of the vintage, and reveal the personality of the varietal or blend. [Others would argue that these changes have moved the resulting wines toward the international style which emphasizes fruit ripeness at the expense of terroir and character of the vintage. For an extensive discussion of terroir, click here.]  

Changes in the wine cellar and fermentation techniques
 In the early sixties, Haut-Brion and Latour began using temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermenters. Controlling temperatures allows a producer to harvest as late as possible, picking grapes at full phenolic maturity with high sugars. In the old days, this happened only by accident and was both feared and discouraged as fully ripe grapes are tricky to vinify without temperature control. If temperatures soar during fermentation, the yeasts that convert the sugar into alcohol are killed, setting off a chain reaction that results in spoiled wines with excessive levels of volatile acidity (vinegar.) This was frequently a problem when harvests occurred during hot weather. Many of the Médoc 1947s and some of the 1929s were thus ruined. In 1947, 1949, and 1959, some producers actually threw ice into their vats to cool them down.The advent of temperature-controlled fermenters, whether steel or wood, has been a remarkable technological step for improved wine quality. It allows producers to harvest (assuming weather permits) at their leisure and bring in fully mature grapes knowing that at the push of a button they can control the temperature of each of their fermentation vats. This has resulted in significantly better wines with fewer defects, sweeter fruit, riper tannin, and lower acidity. 

Moreover, all of the top properties do an extraordinary selection (culling out damaged grapes and vegetal material) on what they call the table de tri (sorting table). A labor force inspects the grapes as they come into the cellars, discarding any that appear rotten, unripe, unhealthy, or blemished. The degree of this inspection varies from property to property, but those properties producing the finest wines generally practice the most severe selection. Some perfectionist estates have a second table de tri after the grapes are destemmed where another sorting team pulls out any stems, leaves, or questionable looking berries.

Cold soaks, or pre-fermentation macerations have become increasingly common. They were used in the past in cold areas (Burgundy and the northern Rhone) because fermentations often did not begin for four or five days simply because the cellars were so cold. In Bordeaux, cold soaks have been gathering support with some avant garde producers utilizing 4-8 day cold soaks hoping to extract more phenolic material, greater aromatics, and darker colors. Some of the more radical producers actually add dry ice pellets to the soaking/macerating grape must to promote bouquet and color development. Fermentations, originally 10-15 days, are now often extended to 21-30 days, the theory being that the molecular chain that forms the tannin structure will become sweeter and riper with prolonged fermentation.

The bottom line is that every top Bordeaux property has invested in state-of-the-art temperature-controlled fermenters. Some are stainless steel; others are the smaller open-top wood type which have become the rage in St.-Emilion. All the top properties do a severe triage before and sometimes after destemming. More and more properties use cold soaks, and some use extended macerations. Overall, the vinification of modern Bordeaux is done under strictly supervised, temperature-controlled conditions in a far more sanitary environment than 30 years ago. It is a far cry from the seat-of-your-pants fermentations of the past that could become stuck or troubled, thus causing the development of unwanted organisms and/or volatile acidity.

The most controversial new technique is the concentration of grape must by reverse osmosis or entrophy. In the past saignee was used whereby some juice was siphoned off to increase the percentage of skins to grape must. That worked reasonably well, but in the early eighties Leoville Las-Cases and some other top estates discretely began using reverse osmosis which pushed the juice against a membrane to remove water. Reverse osmosis and entrophy (the removal of water under a vacuum) are concentration techniques that have now been in use for 20 years. I was initially skeptical, but in fact Leoville Las-Cases has been producing wines of first-growth quality. In years of good ripeness but dilution from harvest rains, these machines can increase the quality of the wine with no apparent damage. At many top chateaux, reverse osmosis is now standard operating procedure, but only in years where there is some dilution from harvest rain. The danger is that you concentrate any defects as well. I have however come to believe these machines work well when used properl

Changes in the wines’ elévage (upbringing) and bottling
Perhaps the primary reason for improved quality as well as uniformity of Bordeaux wines has been the movement, encouraged by Dr. Emile Peynaud, Dr. Pascal Ribeau-Gayon, and their protégées to bottle wines over a much shorter period of time (one to two weeks) as opposed to bottling on demand or over a six to nine month period (often the case previously). Prior to 1970, many chateaux sold barrels of their wines to brokers, even shipping them to merchants in England or Belgium who then bottled the wines at their leisure. Thankfully that practice came to a halt nearly thirty years ago. Today the shorter time in barrel has resulted in wines that are more primary, richer in fruit, and have far greater potential to develop in the bottle.

In addition, sanitation in the cellars has changed dramatically in the past 25 years. Many critics claim the percentage of new oak has jumped significantly, and there is no doubt that far more new oak is seen in Bordeaux than there was twenty or thirty years ago. One Burgundian (actually a Belgian, Jean-Marie Guffens) put the issue of new oak in perspective saying, “never has a wine been over-oaked... it’s been under-wined.” While new oak is an ingredient that works well with Bordeaux’s Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, it should be utilized prudently, as a great chef approaches the use of salt, pepper, or garlic. New oak can improve Bordeaux, but excessive use will destroy the flavors and obliterate varietal character, vintage personality, and terroir characteristics. A great advantage in working with new oak is that it is sanitary. Part of the problem when working with old oak is that it is a fertile home for unwanted bacteria, resulting in off flavors and potential spoilage problems. New oak does not have those problems. However, if the wine does not have sufficient concentration and depth to stand up to new oak, the producer would be wiser to use a neutral vessel for aging.

Some of Bordeaux’s smaller estates have begun using a technique whereby malolactic fermentation occurs in barrel instead of the traditional use of large vats for ML. The technique has been employed for decades in Burgundy and was even used in Bordeaux a century ago when large fermentation vats were developed. Every red Bordeaux goes through malolactic fermentation which is the conversion of sharp, tart malic acid in the grape must into softer, creamier lactic acid. Most of the large estates continue to do ML in tank, and then move the wine into barrels for 16-20 months aging. Many small estates prefer malolactic in barrel because they believe it integrates the wood better, and gives the wine a more forward sweetness early in life, making the young wine more appealing to wine journalists/critics who descend on Bordeaux every spring to taste the newest vintage. Malolactic in barrel gives a wine a certain seductiveness/sexiness early in its life. Wines that undergo ML in tanks often start life more slowly, but at the end of a year they have absorbed their wood just as well.

Significant changes in the selection process for the grand vin have resulted in tremendous improvements in many Bordeaux wines. The development of second wines is not new. Leoville Las-Cases instituted a second wine more than one-hundred years ago, and Chateau Margaux has been producing one nearly as long. However, in the eighties and nineties, the selection process for top estates became increasingly draconian. It is not unusual for a high quality estate to declassify 35% to as much as 70% of their production in order to put only the finest essence of their vineyard into the top wine. Such selections, although less brutal, also exist in the right bank appellations of St.-Emilion and Pomerol, where 30-50% of the crop is often eliminated from the final blend. Much of it goes into the second wine, but the most serious properties also produce a third wine or sell it in bulk. Keep in mind that in such historic vintages as 1961 or 1982, there was little selection made by most top Bordeaux estates. Contrast that to 2000, when nearly every estate produced a second wine, and sometimes a third. This has resulted in significantly better quality at the top echelon. [and partly justifies the lofty price increases for the classified growths]

Other changes in the elévage include less racking and brutal movement of the wines. Today many wines are moved under gas, and the racking process has been modified as many progressive winemakers believe it bruises the wine and causes accelerated development as well as fruit desiccation. [During racking, wine in one vat is transferred to an empty vat while leaving the lees behind. This is traditionally done 3-4 times during the first year. Aside from removing the lees, racking gives the developing wine small amounts of oxygen that it needs to mature.] A few producers have begun aging their wines on the lees [dead yeast cells and other solid particles that fall to the bottom of the container], another technique borrowed from the Burgundians. These producers feel that aging on the lees, assuming they are healthy lees, adds more texture, richness, vineyard character, and varietal personality. I tend to agree, but many great Bordeaux have been produced without significant lees contact. Lees aging remains controversial in Bordeaux where it is regarded as an avant garde technique.

Another new development has been micro-bullage, which originated in France’s Madiran appellation (to sweeten and soften the notoriously hard tannin of those wines) and quickly caught on in Cahors and, to a certain extent, St.-Emilion. This technique involves the diffusion of tiny amounts of oxygen through a tube into fermentation vats after fermentation or into the actual barrels during aging (clicage). In St.-Emilion, the talented Stephane Derenoncourt has made this a popular technique for wines he oversees. The philosophy behind micro-bullage (or micro-oxygenation) is sound. The idea is to avoid labor intensive and sometimes traumatic racking, and feed the wine oxygen in a reductive state while it is aging in the barrel. It is believed that this measured, oxidative process preserves more of the terroir and fruit character than the harsher racking process. Early results with this technique have been positive. The wines have not fallen apart (as their critics charged), and in truth, there is no reason they should since the technique itself, if not abused, is far more gentle than traditional racking.

The addition of tannic, highly pigmented press wine to the higher quality “free-run juice” was often applied in ancient times without any regard for balance/harmony. Today it is done judiciously only if the wine needs it. Small, measured dosages are added incrementally to be sure the wine does not end up with an excess of tannin.

Perhaps the single most important decision after the selection process is whether to fine and/or filter, and the degree to which this is done. Both procedures can eviscerate a wine, destroying texture as well as removing aromatics, fruit, and mid-palate flesh. In the old days, wine was rarely filtered, but egg white fining was often done to soften the harsh tannin [and to clarify the wine]. Moreover, years ago grapes were often unripe and not destemmed, so the tannin was extremely aggressive, even vegetal. Fining helped soften this astringency. Today, with later harvests and for the other reasons already expressed, the tannin is sweeter, and unless the wine has a bacterial problem, suspended proteins, or other matter that make the wine unattractive aesthetically, there is no need to perform the eviscerating heavy finings and filtrations of the past.

In summary, less fining and filtering are practiced today, resulting in wines with more intense flavors, texture, aromatics, and terroir character. Most of the finest estates tend to intelligently look at fining and filtering not in black and white terms, but on a vintage by vintage basis. One of the reasons why Bordeaux is so much better today is that wineries actually make a conscious decision about fining and filtering, as opposed to doing it automatically (which was the situation during the sixties, seventies, and early eighties). Producers who are trying to capture the essence of their vineyards do not today fine or filter unless it is absolutely necessary.

The informed consumer and the influence of wine writers/critics - the media revolution
There has been a revolution in the amount of information available to wine consumers. The old British wine press rarely wrote anything negative. Wine writing today is decidedly pro-consumer. And with the proliferation of information in newspapers, wine magazines, and on the internet, consumers as well as the wine trade are better informed, more selective, and more knowledgeable about fine wine. The Bordeaux wine trade is well aware of this change. The idea of making mediocre wine from a great terroir and selling it at a high price has not been an intelligent option for over twenty years. There is more competition between Bordeaux estates and thus better quality wines. The negative aspect of influential wine critics is that when they give a wine a complimentary review, it results in high demand and thus higher prices.

Improved weather forecasting and availability of experts
Twenty years ago it was impossible to receive accurate weather forecasts more than 24 to 48 hours in advance. With satellites and climate specialists, the weather forecast for a viticultural area can now be predicted with good accuracy 5-7 days in advance. This has been an immense help for producers in developing their harvest strategies. Additionally, there are services available today from experts designed to help vignerons plant and manage vineyards, adding to the extraordinary amount of expertise available to a grape grower/winemaker. I would strongly argue that the finest wines of Bordeaux today are far superior to the great Bordeaux wines of 50-100 years ago. One sees more terroir and vintage character than previously. The wines are more accessible when young, and the aging curve has been both broadened and expanded. Contrary to some critics, most Bordeaux vintages of today will live longer and drink better during the entire course of their lives than their predecessors.

There is, however, a negative to consider. Some of the great 1947 Bordeaux (Petrus, Cheval Blanc, Latour a Pomerol, l'Evangile, Lafleur) had residual sugar, elevated volatile acidity, extremely high alcohol, and pH levels that would cause most modem day oenologists to faint. Yet this is one of the greatest wines ever produced in Bordeaux. Its technical defects are outweighed by its extraordinary positive attributes. These defects give the wine its individuality and character. Despite all the modern techniques, there is still a place for wines with a handful of defects that give them undeniable character as well as greatness. All these new techniques need to make an allowance for wines such as these 1947s.

That being said, there is no question that: 1) the increased knowledge of viticulture, vinification, and weather that exists today has resulted in greater wines; 2) the improved health of the vineyards has resulted in higher quality grapes; 3) the movement toward more natural winemaking has lead to less traumatic bruising of the fruit and wine; 4) the preservation of the fruit, vintage, and terroir characteristics has reached a pinnacle because of these soft handling techniques; 5) the bottling process today is aimed at putting the essence of the vineyard into the bottle in a less oxidized and evolved condition

I must repeat that the ignorant belief that the Bordeaux wines of today are more forward, and therefore shorter lived, is a myth. Wines today are produced from healthier, riper fruit, and thus they possess lower acidity as well as sweeter tannin. Analytically, modern great vintages have indices of tannin and dry extract as high or higher than the legendary vintages of the past. Because their tannin is sweeter and the acidity lower, they can, however, be enjoyed at an earlier age. This does not compromise their aging potential. Examples would be 1959 and 1982,, which many thought were much too low in acidity to age. Most of the great '59s are still in pristine condition, and the better 1982s are still evolving, with the best possessing another 20-30 years of life.

Does anyone want to return to the Bordeaux of 30 or 40 years ago when (1) less than 25% of the most renowned estates made wines proportional to their official pedigree, (2) dirty, unclean aromas were justified as part of the terroir character, (3) disappointingly emaciated, austere, excessively tannic wines from classified growths were labeled "classic" by a subservient wine press that existed at the largesse of the wine industry, and (4) many wines were made from underripe grapes too high in acidity and tannin to ever fully become harmonious?

Anyone who has taken a history class has heard the famous expression ... those who do not learn the lessons of history are condemned to repeat it. The Bordelais know their history well and have worked enthusiastically and progressively to increase the quality of their wines. Bordeaux quality has never been better, and the 2000 vintage provides the proof.


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