Tales from the vine, fact and fiction, add a little romance to wine. And the wine that has come to epitomize romance, Champagne, carries with it one of wine history’s most enduring and popular tales - that of a Benedictine monk, Dom Perignon, who legend has it “invented” Champagne, and upon doing so exclaimed, “I am tasting stars!”  History disputes this fanciful story, for the sparkling wines of Champagne existed long before the famous monk. Effervescence occurred naturally, if not always, in these wines. The cold climate sometimes inhibited the completion of fermentation, but a second fermentation ensued as the cellars warmed in the spring, creating some sparkle in the barrel from which most wine was served at this time. The effervescence was highly desirable, but it could not be controlled.

History does concede that Dom Perignon made significant contributions to the development of Champagne, from vine management to cellar techniques. But most importantly, he is recognized as the innovator of blended Champagnes. In the cold climate of Champagne where grape sugars are low and individual wines can border on austere, blending enables a winemaker to achieve more pleasing flavors and complexity. It is an art that has since been perfected by the large Champagne houses which strive to produce a consistent “house style.” For that Dom Perignon deserves an everlasting place in the tales of the vine.

Large Champagne houses offer us deliciously consistent wines that we can count on for style and taste. These Champagnes offer festivity and certainty, but one turns to small grower Champagnes for their unique personalities. Small grower Champagnes are also blended, but the sources are few and contributions of grape and terroir are much more distinct. These are wine lover’s Champagnes. And from what I’ve read about that Benedictine monk, I suspect small grower Champagnes would be his preference too.