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Nero di Monsignore Primitivo del Salento, 2009
$11.99/bottle  -  $129.49/case

Italy's Apuglia (or Puglia) district, the heel of the "boot," was long known for the quantity of its wine rather than its quality. It is Italy's most productive wine region with 17% of the national total. Historically much of its production was shipped north to Turin, where it was used to make vermouth, or to France, where it was used to beef up French wines when local harvests were either poor or insufficient. Quality has recently improved as the cooperatives that dominate production realize there is more profit in quality wine than in bulk production.

The grape varietals of Apuglia are mostly red. Negro Amaro, Malvasia, Nera di Lecce, and Primitivo predominate. Negro Amaro is becoming quite popular because of its quality/price ratio. Primitivo also represents fine value, but its reputation is also related to its genetics: California researcher Carole Meredith proved that Primitivo has the same DNA as the American Zinfandel!

Nero di Monsignore is a label used by the Union Agricultural Melissano cooperative that began in 1959 with 31 farmer members. Today the partners number 900 and cultivate both vines and olive trees. The 500 hectares of vineyards lie in the heart of the Salento peninsula a few miles from the Cape of Santa Maria di Leuca.

The region was settled by several Italic tribes and by Greek colonists before it was conquered by Rome in the 4th century B.C.E. The Romans organized the land in agricultural parcels, built roads, and established new settlements. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Apulia was variously held by the Goths, the Lombards, and the Byzantines. With the Norman conquest, Robert Guiscard set up the duchy of Apulia in 1059, but Palermo soon replaced Melfi as the center of Norman power, and Apulia became a mere province. The Turks and the Venetians later occupied the coastline alternatively until 1861 when the region joined the unified Kingdom of Italy. Slow social and agrarian reforms accelerated considerably in the mid-to-late 20th century.

This medium-bodied, full-flavored Primitivo was aged in stainless steel. Its spicy aroma of berries and plums is followed by similar delicious fruit flavors that are lively and balanced. Serve this flexible wine at 57-63 degrees, and pair it with steak, pizza, or lamb.

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