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Cabernet Merlot Pinot Noir Zinfandel Others Cabernet and Cabernet Blends
Cameron Hughes Meritage, California, 2009 ($14.95) - Cameron Hughes is a wine broker who buys excess wine from premium wineries and bottles under his own label at much-reduced prices. His previous purchases were bottled with a lot number, but this one is a larger batch blended from mostly Sonoma sources. The label is also new. His business model was written up in the Wall Street Journal (May 7, 2010). A lovely rendition of one-third each Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot, it shows excellent fruit for the price as well as moderate alcohol (13.6%). A deep ruby-red color and aromas of black currant and cassis are followed by an assortment of black and purple fruit flavors wrapped in a lush and smooth texture. This wine received gold medals at the Winemaker Challenge and from the Dallas Morning News. Pindar Cabernet Sauvignon North Fork-Long Island, 2007 ($15.99) - This is another very nice Long Island wine that is worth your attention. It was aged for two years in mostly used American oak. Its deep red color and cherry aroma are very appealing, and it shows both good fruit and a clear presence of oak. Great with steak or pasta.
Ray's Station Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast, 2007 ($16.99) - This rich, dense, and layered Cab is made by winemaker Melissa Bates. Sourced mostly from Sonoma's Alexander Valley, it has terrific varietal character for this price and shows nice hints of black cherry, blueberry, and toasty oak. Though the wine has nothing to do with him, it is named after former Army Captain John G. Ray who settled with his family in the town of Sonoma in 1846. Ray's old residence still stands as an historic site. After striking it rich in the Gold Rush, Ray ventured bravely to the rugged mountains of present day Alexander Valley where in 1859 he opened Ray's Station along the stagecoach route to the geysers of Northern Sonoma County. Parched travelers and their weary horses stopped at the station for libation, food, and very rustic accommodations. The second man to plant vineyards in Alexander Valley, John G. Ray became a local legend.
3 Blocks Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley - Sonoma, 2007 ($22.99) and Joseph Family Vineyards Cab Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2008 ($29.99) - Both of these wines come from the Joseph Family Vineyards. The 3 Blocks Cab sees less wood and is thus priced a bit lower, but it is a fabulous wine in its own right. Pure Cabernet aromas and flavors leap from the glass in a ripe, plush style that is immensely appealing. The primary label shows a bit more oak and slightly more refinement. It is also a terrific value at its price. Bourassa Cabernet Sauvignon "Synergy," Napa, 2007 (reg. $23.99; sale $20.99) - The 2006 Synergy sold out quickly, and we've eagerly awaited this replacement. Bourassa wines are crafted by noted winemaker Gary Galleron. After receiving a degree in viticulture and enology in 1976, Gary learned his craft working for Mike Grgich at Chateau Montelena. He was subsequently the head winemaker at prestigious wineries such as Whitehall Lane, Grace Family, Vineyard 29, and Seavey. At Bourassa, the grapes that aren't quite good enough for the wonderful Harmony5 Red Blend and Symphony3 Cabernet that we carry go into Synergy. The stringent selection says a lot about Bourassa's standards, for Synergy is a terrific wine and a great value. It is youthfully tannic at this point, so decant it for 1-2 hours. This is a wine to buy now and age for six months to a year. Trust me, it won't be available for long.
Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, 200 7 ($22.99) - This terrific Cabernet was made from a few barrels of wine that were left over when the final blend for Rodney Strong’s 2003 Symmetry was completed. The quantity is obviously very limited, but this is a very serious wine that is worth substantially more than its price. Aged in oak for 18 months, it features bold fruit aromas and flavors centered on red plum and boysenberry with a rich, mouth filling texture and soft tannins. It should develop nicely for another 2-4 years.
Fisticuffs Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2007 ($33.99) - From the same folks who make Hourglass and TuTu Pinot Gris, this terrific wine features a wacky boxing label with the following information: "RULES OF ENGAGEMENT: You cannot hit below the belt, headbutt, hold, trip, kick, wrestle, bite, spit on, or push your opponent. You cannot throw a punch whilst holding on to the ropes. If you "floor" your opponent, you cannot hit him when he is on the canvas. Jim wasn’t good with rules." I find this much more useful than the silliness about being pregnant and driving machinery. Generous and well-defined, with vanilla, baking spice, and forest-floor scents, this is a polished, richly textured, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A big wine at a relatively modest price. This venture is owned by Jeff Smith, the owner of Hourglass. Rob Lawson is the winemaker. Robert Foley Vineyards "The Griffin" Red Wine, Napa, 2009 (reg: $41.99; sale: $36.99) - Bob Foley is a legendary Napa Valley winemaker best known for cult wines such as Pride Mountain, Switchback Ridge, and Hourglass. His own wines, made at his new winery at a 2000-foot elevation near the peak of Howell Mountain, garner great reviews; for example, Foley's 2005 Claret, which we carry, received a 94-point rating from Parker. The Griffin is a blend of cellar leftovers and shows the strength of that cellar. The 2008 Griffin is even more powerful than the wonderful 2007. Ideally it needs another few months to come together, but it's hard to resist now. The 2008 is a prodigious blend of 40% super-ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Petite Sirah, 10% black and soft Charbono, and 8% ripe and round Merlot. "Griffin" refers to the Foley family crest. In Irish heraldry the griffin combines the strength of the lion with the soaring abilities of the eagle. *Angels’ Share: Tamber Bey Vineyards Two Rivers Cabernet, 2004/2005 ($34.99) - Don’t worry that this is a 2004; it is already delicious! Tamber Bey is an exciting new project using vineyards owned by Barry and Carol Waitte, vineyard management by Josh Clark, and the immense wine making talent of Thomas Brown who began at Turley and also consults with Outpost, Chiarello, Shrader, and Nicholson Ranch. Only 600 cases were produced from 50% Petite Sirah, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 13% Merlot grapes grown east of Yountville in Napa Valley. Most Angels’ Share wines are expensive, but this is not. It’s very serious for its price (www.tamberbey.com). Honig Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2008 ($36.99) - Honig seems to fly under the radar, yet the winery produces terrific wine at a very fair price. The 2007 Cab is one of Honig's best. Wine Spectator: 91 "Firm and well-structured, delivering a tight, focused core of mineral, dried berry, spicy mocha, cedar, and oak. But what's most impressive is the balance of texture, flavor, and weight. A fine Cabernet. Drink now through 2018." In 1964, Louis Honig purchased a 68-acre ranch in the heart of the Napa Valley and planted it with Sauvignon blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. He sold the grapes to neighboring wineries and dreamed of retiring one day from his San Francisco advertising business and making wine from his vineyard in Rutherford. Louis passed away before he could realize his dream, but his family rallied together to produce several hundred cases of Sauvignon Blanc in the vineyard's old tractor barn in 1981. The wine won a Gold Medal at the Orange County Fair, and the winery was born. It is now run by Louis' grandchildren. *Angels’ Share: Five Vinters Wines
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006
($36.99) - The name refers to the fact that Krisi Raymond is a fifth generation
winemaker. Her Great-Grandfather was Jacob Beringer (yes that
Beringer). Her father is Roy Raymond (yes that Raymond). Krisi
obviously grew up around wine production and has a real passion for producing
high quality, varietally correct wines at extraordinary values. Only 620 cases
of this 100% Cabernet were produced from grapes sourced mostly in St. Helena
and Rutherford. Joel’s tasting notes: “Wow! Great value!! Soft, open knit,
but deep and rich. Fleshy and sexy.”
Amazing Grace Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain
District, 2004
($49.99 reg., $39.99 net intro price) - Amazing Grace, how sweet the taste! This
is another small production Napa Valley wine that we have discovered. It will
easily compete with Cabs costing $10 to $20 more. It is a layered, complex wine
of spice, along with ripe, black currant fruit and a touch of caramel oak
and mint. It has enough ripe tannin for the long haul, but enough fruit to enjoy
now. Beautiful! Spring Mountain is known for concentrated mountain-grown fruit.
The grapes must be handpicked on steep, east-facing terraces of the Mayacamas
Mountains. An afternoon breeze from San Pablo Bay cools the vines in the
afternoon; days are cooler and nights are warmer than on the valley floor. The
growing season is long, ranging from mid-March to as late as November. Spring
Mountain District’s wine-growing history reaches back as far as the Civil War.
By 1874, the legendary Beringer brothers had a vineyard planted here. Beringer
still has vineyards here as do Barnett, Behrens & Hitchcock, Cain, Fife, and
other highly regarded wineries.
Summers
Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa, 2006 (reg: $65; reduced price:
$45.99) - Although there are signs that the economy is slowly improving, the
sales of expensive wines are still sluggish. While high profile wineries can
still get away with high prices, the lesser known wineries cannot. Jim and
Beth Summers have lowered the price of this delicious wine to make room for
the 2007. Their reserve Cab doesn't get many reviews, but Parker's review of
2007 pretty accurately describes the 2006: "89+ Dark color, offers aromas
of scorched earth, loamy soil, black currants, plums, and licorice. Medium to
full-bodied and relatively structured, it comes from the northern tier of
hillside vineyards in the Calistoga appellation. Give it 2-3 years of
cellaring and drink it over the following 15+ years. [The 2006 is ready to
drink.] Proprietors Jim and Beth Summers produce limited quantities of
well-made wines."
Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon,
Santa Cruz, 2006 ($49.99) - MEV has been on a roll; the last three
vintages have been sensational. The wines strike me as more balanced and
refined than most California Cabs. Since they are not high alcohol
blockbusters, I wouldn’t have expected Robert Parker to like them, but he
does: "93+ The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate exhibits a saturated
ruby/purple color as well as more subtle smoke, graphite, damp earth, creme
de cassis, and blackberry characteristics and a youthful, full-bodied
mouthfeel with impressive concentration, texture, and length. This blend of
75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc from high elevation
vineyards (2,000 feet) is capable of lasting two decades or more. This iconic
winery continues to offer wines with personalities and styles that set them
apart (especially the estate wines) from just about anything else readers will
taste from California." The winery must not advertise in the Wine
Spectator, for that magazine gives MEV Cabs consistently mediocre reviews!
B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon “Olive Hill,” 2001 ($49.99) - This is the big brother of the Silver Label Cab.
Unusual for California wines today, it is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
All-new French oak rounds out the package. Perhaps it’s the power of
suggestion, but I detect olive notes as well as eucalyptus in this smooth,
refined wine. Wine Spectator 90:
“Impressive for its pure, ripe currant, plum, and blackberry flavors and also
its elegance and grace, with supple texture and a complex array of flavors,
finishing with a burst of ripe, juicy flavors, integrated tannins, and a touch
of cedary oak. Drink now through 2010.”
Robert Sinsky Cabernet
Sauvignon “Vandal Vineyard,” 2004
($52.95) - Rob Sinsky has been making wine for twenty years. His wife,
Maria, has been with him for ten of those. An acclaimed chef in her
own right, coming from PlumpJack in San Francisco, Maria runs the
kitchen at Sinsky. Sinsky Vineyards has been certified organic since
2001 and is working toward biodynamic certification. The Vandal
vineyard lies in the Los Carneros-Napa district and surrounds Rob and
Maria’s home. “Some of the thought process that went into our
decision to become all-organic started with the fact that our home is
in the vineyard. It seemed irresponsible to be using
industrial-strength chemicals when we lived so close,” says Rob.
Being organic, they don’t have to worry about the chemical residue
from spraying and the effects on them and their children, Ella, 7; and
Lexi, 5. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this is a big
impact wine that maintains good balance. There is more than enough
fruit to balance the oak.
Krupp Bros. (Stagecoach Vineyard) Veraison
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004
($57.99) - Despite the advice of experts, the
Krupp family started developing Stagecoach Vineyard on the difficult
mountain terrain of Pritchard Hill between Atlas Peak and the hills above
Oakville in 1985. Today, with over 500 acres planted, it is the largest
contiguous mountain planting in Napa Valley. Its highly prized grapes are
sold to 40 wineries including Altamura, August Briggs, Biale, Caymus,
Chappellet, Fess Parker, Freemark This beautiful Cab (9% Merlot, 6% Petit
Verdot, 4% Cab
Franc, and 3% Malbec) was aged for 19 months in 85% new French barrique
and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The alcohol and oak are held well in
check by the enormous fruit which features blackberries, dark cherries,
and plum with hints of dark chocolate, mocha, currants, and sage.
Justin
Isosceles, Paso Robles, 200
Andrew Geoffrey Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain (Napa), 2005 ($75) - Twenty-two years after Peter Thompson visited Napa Valley, he bought a 60-acre parcel of prime vineyard property on the highest slopes of Diamond Mountain located along the Mayacamas range between St. Helena and Calistoga. He hired viticulturist Rex Geitner (Sterlingfs Diamond Mountain Ranch, Diamond Creek, Robert Keenan, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Domaine Carneros, and Spring Mountain Winery) to plan, clear, and plant 13 acres to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The Merlot was disappointing, so those vines were budded over to CS and PV. Peter named the winery after his sons, Andrew and Geoffrey, and hired noted winemaker John Gibson (eight years at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and three years at Vine Cliff). The 2005 vintage, Thompson's fifth, was near perfect. A warm summer developed a large crop that required significant crop thinning to maintain fruit concentration and intensity of flavors. The weather cooled slightly in September, extending the growing season well into October. The additional hang time allowed flavors to develop to their fullest and ripened the tannins. After a four day maceration at 55 degrees, fermentation began (90 degrees) with twice-daily pump over. Total skin contact time was 37 days before the wine was put into 80% new French Oak (mostly Allier) for 19 months. The result is spectacular. Parker: 92 "The brilliant 2005 Cab boasts a deep ruby/purple color as well as an elegant perfume of spring flowers, black currants, licorice, cedar, and subtle toasty oak. It is medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin and a long, authoritative, elegant finish. It should drink beautifully for 15 or more years (now - 2022).... Winemaker John Gibson (who fashioned so many beautiful wines at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in the mid-eighties) has been able to extract a finesse-styled, Bordeaux look-alike from this Diamond Mountain vineyard." Very limited. Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2007 ($99.99) - Parker: 93 "The finest Cabernet I have ever tasted from Far Niente may be the 2007 Estate. Its dense purple color is accompanied by fragrant aromatics of creme de cassis, spice box, underbrush, and forest floor. Voluptuously-textured and full-bodied with superb purity and depth as well as a layered, complete finish, this terrific wine should be drinkable before the 2006, but age just as long, 20-25+ years." Verité La Joie, 1999 ($125) - Tanzer 94: “60/40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Full ruby color. Smoky aromas of currant and roasted tobacco. Lush, sweet, and rich; a huge wine with silky, utterly mouthfilling texture, but also plenty of underlying structure. Finishes with very fine tannins, superb sweetness, and lingering notes of black cherry and violet.” Very limited. Robert Parker: 94! "The 1999 La Joie (59% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Merlot) exhibits sumptuous aromas of sweet saddle leather, cigar smoke, chocolaty black currants, and blackberries. It is sweet, rich, full-bodied, complex, and tastes like a Bordeaux on steroids. This is an enormously endowed, classic, distinctive cuvee that must be tasted to be believed. It represents a synthesis between France's Medoc and Northern California's ripe fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2022." Verite
La Joie, 2003 ($169.95) - Parker: 95!
“With a saturated dense purple color, this blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon,
20% Merlot, and 4% Cab Franc offers smoky, sweet scents of lead pencil shavings,
cedar, spice box, volcanic earth, black currants, and smoke. Excellent fruit,
full-bodied power, a layered texture, and an exceptionally long finish. Drink
2009-30” Pinot Noir Cameron Hughes Pinot Noir Lot 110, Carneros, 2007 ($19.99) - Cameron Hughes is a wine broker who buys excess wine from premium wineries and bottles them under his own label at much reduced prices. Each purchase is bottled with a lot number and is by definition available in limited quantities. His "business model" was written up in the Wall Street Journal (May 7, 2010). This Pinot displays abundant and accurate fruit, a modest dollop of oak, a hint of stems, and just enough alcohol that you should serve it on the cool side. It's a hell of a value!
Iris Vineyards Pinot Noir, Oregon, 2008 ($19.99) - The new vintage took a price increase, but the extra fruit and supple texture are well worth the difference. Fleshy, round, and refined, this is a solid Pinot that shows the high quality of the 2008 vintage in Oregon. White Rose Estate Pinot Noir "Mercotti's Milieu," Willamette, OR, 200 7 ($24.99) - Greg Sanders built a manufacturing company in California, but he dreamed of owning a vineyard from which he could produce artisanal wines of outstanding quality. He began taking courses at UC Davis in viticulture and enology. In the summer of 2000, he knocked on the door of an old farm house at the top of the Dundee Hills in Oregon's Willamette Valley. The house was just up the gravel road from Archery Summit, Domaine Drouhin Oregon, and Domaine Serene. Surrounding the farm house was a small vineyard planted in 1980. Its grapes had been sold to St. Innocent, Panther Creek, and Torii Mor. When Greg left, the house, he took with him the deed to his dream. This is the entry-level wine of White Rose Estate. It is a remarkable value!Evening Land Pinot Noir "Blue Label,"
2008 ($25.99) and Pinot Noir "Estate Seven Springs," 2008
($39.99) - Wine collector and film producer Mark Tarlov (Christine, Copycat,
and The Man Who Knew Too Little) has parleyed his connections in the
film, wine, and restaurant industries to produce wine from purchased grapes
for wine-by-the-glass programs for restaurateurs such as Thomas Keller,
Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud, and Alain Ducasse. He also got some
of America’s leading sommeliers involved including Rajat Parr of Michael
Mina and RN74, Daniel Johnnes of Restaurant Daniel, and Bernie Sun of
Jean-Georges. Evening Land makes Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Oregon,
California, and Burgundy. Dominique Lafon, one of the true stars of Burgundy,
is the consulting winemaker for the Oregon and Burgundy sides of the project,
and these wines show his elegant, Burgundian touch. The art of the deal is a staple of the movie biz. Tarlov assembled one of the more audacious wine deals in Oregon, reuniting the two halves of Seven Springs Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. It had been split by a family dispute, but Tarlov managed to secure leases with options to buy on both parts, and now has the vineyard exclusively. The Estate Seven Springs is incredibly classy with more richness of fruit and more depth of character. Meville Pinot Noir "Verna’s Vineyard," 2010 ($27.99) - The 2009 Verna’s sold out quickly and has been replaced by the 2010. The price has one back up because the supply was back to normal after the bumper crop in 2009. The 2010 is developing quickly and is amazingly good for the price. Ron Melville has several vineyards in western Santa Ynez Valley as well as "Verna’s" in the warmer Cat Canyon just north of Los Alamos. Greg Brewer (of Brewer-Clifton) is the winemaker. The yield was 3.2 tons/acre, and 67% of the fruit was fermented as whole-clusters (the rest were de-stemmed) in small, open-top fermenters. Total skin and stem contact was 30 days. The wine was transferred directly from the press into barrels (10% new Sirugue French oak, 90% neutral) where it remained sur lie (on the yeast) until April. The wine has perfumed aromas of raspberry, ribbon candy, pluot, and mandarin orange. The palate is slightly restrained at this point, but there is promising plushness and structure. Another winner , but the last because the powers that be have decided to sell this wine only in California!Ken Wright Cellars Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2009 ($29.99) - There are many reasons why KWC single vineyard wines are among the best Pinots produced in America. One reason is severe pruning and crop thinning (see www.kenwrightcellars.com/philosophy.shtml for more details) to keep yields below 2 tons per acre. Despite their best efforts, 2009 was such a bountiful harvest that KWC decided to use only the smallest clusters of grapes for the vineyard designated wines; the remaining grapes went into this "Willamette" bottling. It is still an excellent wine. It puts on color and weight as it airs, but it doesn't put on airs; it is an honest, lightly oaked Pinot that clocks in at an appropriate 13.5% alcohol. Cambria Pinot Noir "Benchbreak Vineyard," Santa Maria Valley, 2006 ($29.99) - The maritime influences that funnel in from the ocean make Santa Maria Valley the coolest part of California - perfect for Pinot Noir. The low-yielding Bench Break Vineyard is a small, distinct area of the family-owned Cambria estate. Sitting at the highest elevation on the western side of the property, this site has the shallowest soil on the estate, which restricts vine vigor and yields fruit with concentrated flavors. This wine is dark, exotic, and voluptuous with good minerality. Wine Enthusiast 92: "Bring on the grilled salmon, ahi tuna, pork chops, and smoked country ham. This gorgeous Pinot will let them shine in a supportive way, not overwhelm them. Dry, crisp, and elegantly silky, it shows complex flavors of cherry, cola, rhubarb, licorice, and beef jerky that finish in a swirl of dusty spice." Ransom Pinot Noir "Selection," Willamette Valley, 2009 ($29.99) - This wine is a blend of the best grapes sourced from four different vineyards. It spent 18 months in seasoned French oak and was bottled without fining or filtration. The nose offers up fragrant blueberry and black cherry aromas. The palate is surprisingly full of layered fruit with a silky texture, nice structure, and medium length. It shows polish and elegance. *Angels’
Share:
J. Christopher Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley OR, 2006
($33.99) -
On
our first trip to Oregon, my wife and I stayed at Argyle. When we asked what
other winery we should visit, we were directed to nearby Cameron, a tiny cult
winery. Jay Somers’ first job was with John Paul, winemaker and owner of
Cameron. After three vintages he partnered with Bill Holloran, a software
executive with a love of wine, and they built a small winery on Holloran’s
farm in 1999. In return for making Holloran Winery and Stafford Hill wines,
Jay uses the facility to make his own J. Christopher label. Most of his fruit
sources are organic vineyards. This wine is absolutely solid in fruit profile,
tannin structure, and acidity. Ripe blackberry and bing cherry flavors mix
with dense earth to create an irresistible Pinot. The layers of complexity
build from the first sip. It focuses initially on earthy notes, but then moves
on to fruit notes and finishes with fresh clean acidity. It drinks beautifully
now. Capiaux Cellars Pinot Noir “Chimera,” 200 9 ($33.99) is exceptional Pinot and an exceptional value. This sexy, generous wine has beautiful Pinot Noir fruit and is rich and long on the palate. Capiaux Cellars (http://www.capiauxcellars.com) produces single vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir using traditional Burgundian techniques. Sean Capiaux, who learned his craft at Peter Michael Winery, Jordan, and Pine Ridge, produces wines that express the unique terroir of the source vineyards. Modern equipment is used but with as little intervention as possible. A minimal amount of new oak is used, typically 30%. His Pinots are aged in French oak for 10 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.
*Angels’ Share: Nicholson Ranch Pinot Noir Estate, 2004 & 2005 ($3 9.99) - This is a phenomenal Carneros Pinot for the price. Producing high-end Pinot Noir requires that everything be just right: soil, climate, moderate yields, small batches, careful handling of the grapes, and great care and experience in the winery. Only 760 cases of this wine were made from Dijon clones 113, 114, 667, and 777. Thomas Brown, an extremely talented winemaker who previously worked as assistant winemaker at Turley, shows his deft hand with this wine. It has that wonderful bouquet found only in the best Pinots. This wine is soft in texture, rich in fruit, and elegant in style. It shows Burgundian influences along with California ripeness. When just poured from the bottle, it gets better and better in the glass, so I would suggest decanting it for an hour.CAW Wines Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton District (Willamette Valley), 2008 ($39.99) - Jack and Norma Coats planted their sustainably farmed, 7.5-acre vineyard on the same ridge as three of Ken Wright’s vineyards in 2004. Scott Shull, owner and winemaker of Raptor Ridge Winery, makes this wine. The first release in 2007 was a near miss, but the 2008 is a bullseye! The vines were a year older, and the vintage was one of Oregon’s greats. The lovely rose petal and cranberry aroma is followed by clean and vibrant flavors of red raspberries, blackberries, and plums with hints of black pepper and slate minerality. Good acidity, light tannins, and fine structure suggest pairing it with game, salmon, trout, mushrooms, veal, lamb, and pasta. Only 329 cases were produced. Tanzer 90: "Bright ruby-red. Sexy, fruit-dominated bouquet of raspberry and blackberry preserves, potpourri, and Asian spices. Sappy, vaguely jammy dark berry flavors show very good depth and a seamless texture with a hint of smokiness on the back half. Very attractive wine with suave finishing sweetness and very good length. Delicious now." *Angels' Share Wine: Cherry Pie Pinot Noir, Stanly Ranch -Carneros, 2006 ($42.99) - Jason Woodbridge, famous for Layer Cake and Hundred Acre, has turned his sights to Pinot Noir. Using grapes purchased from the famous Stanly Ranch (Coho, Saintsbury) in Carneros, he has fashioned a fragrant, fat, juicy, fruit-filled Pinot that will melt in your mouth. Don’t miss it!
*Angels' Share Wine: Coho
Wines Pinot Noir “Stanly Ranch,” 2007
($42.99) - Winemaker Brooks Painer (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellar, Robert
Mondavi, and V. Sattui) and sales and marketing guy Gary Lipp (Robert
Mondavi, Chalone, Jess Jackson, Paul Hobbs, and Chappellet) founded this
winery in 1999. They have their own vineyard, but they also purchase
grapes. Like Saintsbury, Coho purchases grapes from the highly respected
Stanly Ranch in Carneros. Most of this wine (68%) comes from a small block
of Pommard clone planted around 1970. Yields are only 1.5 to 2 tons per
acre. The remainder comes from younger vines of Dijon clones 667 and 777.
With focused aromas of black cherry, wild berry, and ripe plum, this
delicious wine is rich and plush with a velvety texture. It opens with
airing to reveal gorgeous, layered flavors of black cherry, plum, and red
currant. This is a refined wine with an elegant finish. Only 487 cases were
produced. Westrey Pinot Noir "Abbey Ridge," Dundee Hills/Willamette Valley/OR, 2009 ($43.50) - Westry is perhaps the best Oregon winery you don't know about. Amy Wesselman and David Autrey own two tightly spaced, dry-farmed vineyards and purchase grapes from two neighbors. We're starting with their top cuvée, Abbey Ridge, because it's one of America's best Pinots. Deep and profound, it is simply a great wine. The 32-year old, organically farmed vineyard is the highest and coolest part of the property. Yields are 2 - 2.5 tons per acre. Matt Kramer (Wine Spectator): "Westrey is an exemplar of Oregon Pinot Noir perfectionism. Few if any Oregon wineries exceed Westrey in Pinot quality, even with prices well in excess of anything Westrey asks." Tanzer: 91 "Vivid red. Sexy aromas of wild red berries, Asian spices, and fresh rose with minerality in the background. Juicy raspberry and cherry flavors are enlivened by a spicy quality and pick up a subtle vanilla note on the back half. Approachable now, but has the depth and balance to reward at least another few years. Finishes sweet, sappy, and very long." Due in the first week of October. Robert Mueller Pinot Noir “Emily’s Cuvée,” 200 7 ($47.99) is a new Russian River (Sonoma) release. Mueller makes excellent Pinot, and the “Emily’s Cuvee” has always been his best effort. It combines a ripe, full-bodied approach with bright, layered, complex flavors that are incredibly light on their feet. From its cassis and cherryish fruit tones in the nose to its deep, engagingly vital flavors and its long finish, it finds a level of refinement and grace that is uncommon. The Emily's Cuvee came primarily from a single, well-drained, gravely vineyard that is cooled by fog. Indigenous yeast were used to ferment most of the juice which was aged in 50% new French barrique. The resulting wine is soft, rich, flavorful, and long.
Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Reserve, Russian
River Valley, 2007
($49.99 net) - After
a career in dance with Martha Graham, George Ballanchine, and other notables,
the late Rodney Strong retired from dance in 1959 and married his lovely,
red-headed dancing partner Charlotte Ann Winson. One of Rod Strong's more famous
quotes is "I knew I couldn't be an old dancer, but I could be an old
winemaker." So he founded a vineyard and winery in Sonoma County. Although
he built a reputation primarily for value wines, he also produced some single
vineyard, specialty wines of a very high caliber. Robert Sinskey Vineyards Pinot Noir "Three
Amigos Vineyard," 2005 ($49.99) - Native Californian Rob Sinskey’s
unusual path to wine began with a degree from Parsons School of Design in
Manhattan where the only thing agricultural grew in apartment closets. After a
stint in advertising, his father called seeking help with a fledgling
vineyard. Rob heeded the call, and his father’s avocation became Rob’s
obsession. The operation now covers over 200 acres in the Carneros, Napa’s
Stags Leap district, and Sonoma. All are certified organic and biodynamic by
Demeter. Rob’s philosophy: "Wine is not an athletic event"; his
goal: to make "pure wines of character that pair well with cuisine."
Rob believes that wine should not be a "quick study," but rather
sneak up on you and seduce you as it evolves in the glass. Ken Wright Pinot Noir Savoya Vineyard, Willamette Valley, 2008 ($54.99) - Located in rural Carlton, Oregon, Ken Wright Pinot Noirs are some of the best in Oregon, and 2008 was the best Oregon vintage in years. Wine Spectator: 92 "Supple, open-textured, and inviting, letting its plum, currant, and sweet spice flavors float easily through the refined texture and the long, delicate finish. Drink now through 2018. 1,790 cases made." Robert Parker: 92 "Medium ruby-colored with an ethereal perfume of cedar, spice box, rose petal, and assorted red fruits. Leaner and racier on the palate than its peers, this is an elegantly styled effort with impeccable balance and a lengthy, seamless finish. It will fill out. Drink now - 2020. Ken Wright's 2008 Pinot Noirs are exceptional." Ken Wright Pinot Noir "Carter Vineyard." 2009 ($54.99) - The exceptional 2008s are almost sold out, but Ken Wright's 2009s are also wonderful. Wine Advocate: 91 "The 2009 Pinot Noir Carter Vineyard is a dense, broad-shouldered Pinot with plenty of spicy dark fruit flavors, good balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. It will benefit from 1-2 years of additional cellaring and will offer a drinking window extending from 2013 to 2021+." Wine Spectator: 92 "Velvety and generous, delivering a lithe mouthful of orange peel-scented raspberry and guava flavors that linger effortlessly against creamy, polished tannins. Drink now through 2019."
Chasseur Pinot Noir
" Brewer-Clifton 2009 Pinot Noir Ampelos ($63) and Cargasacchi ($69.95)- ">Santa Barbara's Brewer-Clifton is a cult winery. Wine Advocate (Antonio Galloni): 92 "The 2009 Pinot Noir Ampelos comes across as quite energetic and tightly wound. Dark cherries, plums, sweet spices and menthol emerge, but only with great reluctance. Sweet floral notes and licorice appear later, adding complexity and nuance to the red fruit. There is marvelous integrity in the glass; the only thing needed is time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021." Wine Advocate (Antonio Galloni): 94 "Generous fruit, acidity and structure all come together beautifully in the 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi. It is arguably the most complex of the 2009 Pinots here. Plush dark cherries, plums, mint and licorice are some of the nuances that flow in this powerful, intense wine. Layers of sweet inner perfume add complexity on the virile finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019... Two brilliant young winemakers, Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton, are symbolic of California high quality wine production. Informed by French and Italian experiences as well as their belief in the cool climate sites of Santa Rita Hills, they have proven that remarkable wines can emerge from this relatively new viticultural region. The Pinot Noirs see no more than one-third new oak and 100% stems, which gives the wines a backward, earthy character early in life. However, based on how older vintages have matured, these wines have incredibly long lives and may come closest to the brilliant Pinot Noirs made by Calera in the late eighties."Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir "Hyde Vineyard," 2008 ($84.99) - Parker: 94 "Brilliant, one of the finest Pinots I tasted from the 2008 vintage. Made from the Pommard and Calera clones, it exhibits a dark, saturated plum/ruby/purple-tinged color as well as an enormous bouquet of plums, soy, forest floor, black cherries, and black currants; stunning, full-bodied, rich fruit; and a supple, luscious finish. Drink this decadent, full-throttle Pinot Noir now to 2020." Wine Spectator: 94 "Shows the vintage at a peak - ripe, intense, and savory with layers of dried berry, currant, herb, mineral, and sage. Full-bodied, focused, and persistent, this is rich and expansive on the finish, where flavors unfold and gain complexity. Drink now through 2015. 741 cases made."
Zinfandel Joel Gott Zinfandel, California, 2006 ($15.99) - Every year at this time, we receive our allotment of Gott’s California Zin. A few months later, we run out. Every year around Christmas, customers are disappointed that we have no more. Here it is. Buy a case. Or two! As usual, it’s really delicious with everything a good Zin should have: juicy fruit, lush texture, and an alcohol level that is kept in check. Joel Gott is the son of longtime California winemaker Gary Gott. Joel is married to Sarah Gott. Sarah’s resume includes winemaking duties at Joseph Phelps (1993-2001) where she was responsible for that wineries flagship bottling, “Insignia”. In 2002 Sarah left Phelps to take the reins at Quintessa, another “super premium” Napa proprietary Bordeaux blend. More recently, Sarah has focused her efforts on her ever-expanding line of premium “value” wines under her family's “Joel Gott” label.
Angels’ Share: Five Vintners Zinfandel, 2006 ($19.99) - Krisi Raymond, the fifth generation winemaker whose wonderful Cabernet was written up last month, also makes this fine Zin. Only 989 cases were produced from 60% Napa and 40% Sonoma (Mauritson Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley) fruit. Like her Cabernet, this is a great value. Nalle Zinfandel, Dry Creek, 2006 ($29.99) - It's been years since we carried this label, but a recent tasting reminded me of just how good it is. A rarity among Zinfandels, it has a very modest 13.7% alcohol, yet it also has beautifully ripe fruit and crisp acidity. This is a balanced Zin that works very well with food and won't tire your palate with over-the-top extraction and alcohol. It's a blend of 85% Zinfandel, 8% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane plus some Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Alicante Bouchet. It was aged in French oak (20% new) for eleven months. Doug and Lee Nalle have been making wine for 25 years. Son Andrew now helps out. The Nalles use grapes from their home vineyard and buy grapes from two neighbors. The vines average 62 year of age and are all head-pruned and spur trained, a method dating to the 19th century. Banknote "The Vault" Red Blend, Napa, 2006 ($32.99) - Only 585 cases of this Zin-based wine were produced were produced. Pete Nixon buys top quality grapes from several Napa Valley vineyards and, with consulting winemaker Bill Knuttel, constructs this blend of 62% Zinfandel, 25% Syrah, and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a big, brawny, and complex wine with aromas of black cherry, cigar box, blackberry, caramel, cassis, vanilla, and a touch of clove. The rich palate follows with cassis, cherry preserves, allspice, tobacco, and latte/espresso. Many reviewers have compared it to Orin Swift's "The Prisoner." Some have actually preferred it! A few excerpts from the various reviews: "Slam dunk good," "21st Century Wine Hedonism," "bold, juicy, rich, and gushy." The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition awarded it a Double Gold - Best of Class. (Admittedly it is a relatively small class.) As Pete says, "Banknote: accept no counterfeits!" Limited. Toucan Zinfandel, Arroyo Grande (California's Central Coast), 2007 ($39.99) - Toucan Wines is a family-owned micro-winery with only 3.5 acres of vineyards. This beautiful example of Zinfandel combines the power of the grape with a sense of grace and refinement. With 11% Petite Sirah, it has plenty of ripe flavor, but it is relatively well balanced with 14.7% alcohol. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Only 245 cases were produced. It won gold and best of class at the Los Angeles International Wine Competition. Doug Timewell and Terrie Leivers also grow and produce a Petite Sirah. After 25 years in corporate sales and marketing, Doug's new venture is wine. Doug and Terrie intend to stay small, have fun, enjoy the good life, and hope to break even on the wine. Merlot
Additional
older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies
But Goodies page. Others Kluge Estate Albemerle Simply Red, Virginia, 2005 ($11.99) - Yes, Virginia, these wines are from.... Never mind! Kluge Estate is a more serious endeavor than you would expect. World famous wine consultant Michel Rolland is involved with the 10-year project. Patricia Kluge, the ex-wife of the late billionaire John Kluge, was raised in England but has lived in Virginia for 20 years and is passionate about farming, nature, and wine. After a career in technology, Patricia’s husband, William Moses, joined her (as CEO) in the endeavor. Kluge Winery and Vineyard is tucked into Carter’s Mountain on the edge of the picturesque Blue Ridge Mountains in Charlottesville, Virginia. Kluge’s 2,000-acres are just miles from the birthplace of American viticulture, Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello. Whereas Jefferson never succeeded in making good wine, several modern wineries have. Simply Red is a Bordeaux-style blend made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc, Merlot, and Malbec. It has character and is well worth its price. Stop the presses: I had planned to get other Kluge wines (including the sparkler that was served at Chelsea Clinton’s wedding), but they are no longer available because the winery went into foreclosure last month. Farm Credit of the Virginias, the bank that held the lien, now owns the property and wine stock. It is not clear if there will be a new buyer to keep the venture going. The outlook is not good, but this wine is. Revelry Vintners "The Reveler," 2008 ($18.69) - Columbia Valley’s (Washington) warm, dry climate produces intense wines of great ripeness. This one uniquely relies on Petit Verdot (52%) along with 38% Merlot and 10% Cab Sauvignon. Petit Verdot is one of the five grapes that are used in most high quality Bordeauxs as well as the California blends inspired by them. The Petit Verdot lends a wonderful spiciness to this ripe wine that displays flavors of smoky plums, cherry, dark chocolate, and boysenberry-blueberry. It is well balanced, shows a soft texture due to its silky tannins, and is quite a bargain. Revelry Vintners is the brainchild of Jared Burns, a young man who is passionate about wine. Wine Spectator: 88 "Distinctive for its violet-tinged plum and herb flavors that ride easily over refined tannins, finishing with grace. Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2014. 1800 cases made." This is a very respectable review for a winery that doesn't advertise in the magazine. The alcohol is 13.9%.
Wellington Noir de Noir, 2008 ($24.99) - Do not, I repeat, do not mistake this wine for a Pinot Noir! This massive bruiser couldn’t be more different from an elegant, delicate Pinot. It is a blend of four unusual red grape varietals. Alicante Bouchet (which predominates), Lenoir, Grand Noir, and Petite Bouschet are distinguished by the fact that color pigmentation permeates the juice as well as the skins of the grapes. The term for these varietals is "teinturiers." Not surprisingly, they make incredibly dark and deeply flavored wines, especially in low-yielding vintages like 2008. Wellington makes about 125 cases per year of Noir de Noir from grapes grown on their own vineyard and the adjacent Pagani Ranch (made famous by Ridge Vineyards). This wine is only sold at the winery, but 25 cases were mistakenly shipped to the NJ distributor. We have four of them. If you like big, bad, thick, viscous, chewy, jammy yet balanced red wines that burst with ripe fruit and chocolate flavors, don’t miss this one. It was a gold medal winner at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. Krupp Bros. (Stagecoach Vineyard) Black Bart Syrah, 2005 ($49.99) - Despite the advice of experts, the Krupp family started developing Stagecoach Vineyard on the difficult mountain terrain of Pritchard Hill between Atlas Peak and the hills above Oakville in 1985. Today, with over 500 acres planted, it is the largest contiguous mountain planting in Napa Valley. Its highly prized grapes are sold to 40 wineries including Altamura, August Briggs, Biale, Caymus, Chappellet, Fess Parker, Freemark Abbey, Hess, Merryvale, Miner Family, Pahlmeyer, Paul Hobbs, Plumpjack, Quintessa, Viader, and ZD! Despite having 10% Viognier in the blend, the fabulous Syrah is intense, rich, juicy, and complex. It is named for the gentleman bandit of the late 1800s who robbed stagecoaches including some that passed through what is now the Stagecoach Vineyard. The infamous Black Bart (really Charles Boles) was a unique figure. Robbing stagecoaches of cash and gold, his legend grew as he became known for his finely tailored appearance, well-mannered demeanor, and the romantic poetry he sometimes left at the scene of his crimes. The outlaw was finally caught, but his impeccable manners earned him early release from jail for good behavior! He disappeared, never to be heard from again. Viader “V,” 1998 ($64.95) - Delia Viader has been making an outstanding Cabernet/Cab Franc on Howell Mountain for over 10 years. She also makes two other wines in much smaller quantities, a Syrah, and this interesting, complex blend of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. There’s not much track record with the “V,” but it generally gets ratings comparable to, and is priced the same as the better-known Red. The 1998 Red got a 95 from the Wine Spectator. According to Delia, this wine will always be short on production but long on personality. New vintages sell for about $90 at the winery! Petit Verdot is one of the five “approved” grapes for Bordeaux red wines and is thought to be a cousin of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. Hugh Johnson has linked it to the Balisca vine that came from Albania via the Greeks during the height of Greek civilization. In the 16th and the first part of the 17th century, Petit Verdot produced a wine called “Cargaison” that provided a hearty drink for ships’ crews headed on extended voyages at sea. Originally planted in the marshy areas of Bordeaux, the Petit Verdot grape is known for small berries, thick skins, and a tendency to ripen late - even later than Cabernet Sauvignon. Although PV is planted by two-thirds of the Médoc cru classé, the late ripening aspect of Petit Verdot never inspired owners to plant a large portion of their vineyard to it. At the same time, the color, the tannin, and the peppery spice that Petit Verdot brought to the final blend was crucial. Many of the top wines in Bordeaux such as Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux, and Léoville-Las-Cases simply won’t make their final blend without it. Petit Verdot comprises less than 1,000 acres in Bordeaux and just over 100 in California. In California, the late season warm spells provide the ripeness in these grapes that the Bordelais could never count on.
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