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Chardonnay Sauvignon Blanc Others

Chardonnay
Bliss Vineyards Chardonnay, 2005 ($10.99) shows green apple and pear flavors teaming up with subtle oak to make a lovely wine that is versatile enough to pair with seafood, chicken or pasta, or to enjoy on its own. It received a 91-point rating at the California State Fair.Bliss Vineyards - Good California wines at this price are rare. These are real wines from a specific winery and a specific AVA (Mendocino); they are not generic “California” wines! In 1943 Irv Bliss bought a 450-acre Mendocino property consisting of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. By the 1970s, Irv was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes. Marriage brought the Brutocao and Bliss families together, and Brutocao Cellars began making wine in 1991. The majority of the grapes are sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess!

Bohemian Highway Chardonnay, 2008 ($13.99/Magnum) - Most California jug wines cover their lack of fruit with sweetness, too much oak, or both. This one, however, has exceptional peach and melon fruit and just hints of oak. A surprisingly well balanced and very pleasant summer sipper!

Pure Chardonnay, 2006 ($10.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The back label reports that they are made by the Underground Winery. Go figure! The offerings under the Pure label are pure values. The Sauvignon Blanc is a tasty New Zealand-style wine with varietal character and good acidity. The Chardonnay is a bit dull with muted crispness, but it is better than most in this price range.

Purple Mountain Chardonnay, Sonoma, 2007 ($13.99) - The “skinny” on this wine is that the grapes come from a famous winery with "Chalk" in the name. It tastes more tropical than is typical for Sonoma County. Rounded and mellow, with good body and some malo-lactic character, this is an appealing and well-made crowd pleaser.

Cameron Hughes Chardonnay, California, 2009 ($14.95) - Cameron Hughes is a wine broker who buys excess wine from premium wineries and bottles under his own label at much-reduced prices. His previous purchases were bottled with a lot number, but this one is a larger batch blended from mostly Sonoma sources. The label is also new. His business model was written up in the Wall Street Journal (May 7, 2010). This Chardonnay has good richness of fruit and body with a soft texture and relatively low acid. It features subtle hints of Asian pear, baked apple, honeycomb, and hazelnut. Evident oak and 13.8% alcohol put it right in the middle of the typical California styles, but the quality here exceeds the price.

High Note Chardonnay, Santa Barbara, 2005 ($14.99) - An attractive, reasonably well-balanced, rounded wine with medium fruit and just enough oak to give it some complexity. Made by Alison Crowe. Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands.

Lion's Ridge "Unoaked" Chardonnay, 2009 ($15.99) - Although the label makes no claim regarding wood, this wine was aged only in stainless steel. Made from hand-picked Monterey County grapes, it shows the rich, natural fruit character of Chardonnay. The wine opens with aromas of freshly cut green apple, melon, and pear. Refreshing and lush tropical fruit flavors carry through to the crisp and satisfying finish. Lion's Ridge is a label made by the Clos La Chance winery. Many people associate Chardonnay with oaky flavors that come from aging the wines in oak barrels (or as is the case with most inexpensive ones, dumping oak chips into the tank), but Chardonnay can be just lovely without the oak influence. Medium-bodied with pleasing crispness, this charming wine is more food-friendly than the oaky ones. ($15.99) - Although the label makes no claim regarding wood, this wine was aged only in stainless steel. Made from hand-picked Monterey County grapes, it shows the rich, natural fruit character of Chardonnay. The wine opens with aromas of freshly cut green apple, melon, and pear. Refreshing and lush tropical fruit flavors carry through to the crisp and satisfying finish. Lion's Ridge is a label made by the Clos La Chance winery. Many people associate Chardonnay with oaky flavors that come from aging the wines in oak barrels (or as is the case with most inexpensive ones, dumping oak chips into the tank), but Chardonnay can be just lovely without the oak influence. Medium-bodied with pleasing crispness, this charming wine is more food-friendly than the oaky ones.

20-Gauge Chardonnay, 2006 ($14.99) - Gauge Wines are the NRA’s answer to us effete wine snobs. The wines are crafted by two hunters (John and Bjorn, one of whom grew up in Napa Valley) and a winemaker (Trent, whose father founded Livingston Vineyards and who learned to make wine from LV’s first winemaker, Randy Dunn). According to the label, these wines aren’t inspired by the meals you cook; they are inspired by the meals you catch. But you don’t have to be a hunter to enjoy these wines. The Chard is crisp, creamy, and inspired by foggy spring mornings, sitting in perfect stillness among the reeds. Chardonnay is prized as the perfect complement to seafood, but this one goes well with all types of fowl, whether hunted or “bagged” at the supermarket.

Rockslide Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2009 ($14.98) - This little gem is made by Bill Knuttel who previously made wines at Saintsbury, Chalk Hill, and Dry Creek. It's balanced, flavorful and its quality far exceeds its price.

Geode Chardonnay, Santa Barbara, 2006 ($16.99) - What an exceptional value! With the cooling influence of ocean breezes, Santa Barbara is the source of some of the best Cali Chards. The 2006 vintage was particularly cool and long allowing the grapes an extended hang time which produced intense, concentrated flavors. This beauty was mostly barrel-fermented (6% in tank) and then underwent malolactic fermentation and sur lie aging in barrel (75% French oak, 25% American - 24% new) for eight months. The result is a rich, creamy, buttery wine with more than enough fruit to counter the oak. With only 13.5% alcohol and 0.65% acidity, it is nicely balanced. It won gold medals at three prestigious wine competitions.

Freemark Abbey Chardonnay, Napa, 2009 ($19.99) - This Napa property has a long and storied history that began in 1886 when Josephine Marlin Tychson became the first woman to build and operate a winery in California. After two subsequent owners, a name change, and the evil that was prohibition, three businessmen from Southern California, Albert "Abbey" Ahern, Charles Freeman, and Markquand Foster purchased and reopened the winery. Its reputation grew through a succession of new owners. Today it is part of Jess Jackson's Artisan and Estate Wines division. Best known for red wines, FMA also produces this lovely white. The grapes come from vineyards in Rutherford, Carneros, and Howell Mountain from vines between 7 and 17 years of age. The wine was aged in 100% French oak (25% new) for four months. It has a lovely hazelnut character with light toast and relatively low acidity.

Three Saints Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley-California, 2007 ($19.99) and Dierberg Chardonnay, Santa Maria Valley-California, 2007 ($29.99) - These Chards from the Dierberg winery are exceptionally good in their respective price ranges. Both have good balance of fruit and acidity with just enough oak character for complexity. The Dierberg bottling, from the best barrels, was given more lees aging and has a rare refinement that sets it apart from the competition. Jim Dierberg was raised on a Missouri farm. (At age 11, he won the St. Louis County Fair with his champion pig, Buster.) When Jim has a passion for something, he acts quickly and decisively. He proposed to his wife, Mary, on their first date! Bankers by profession, the couple developed an initial passion for wine during trips to Germany in the 1960s. Back home they discovered an old winery in Hermann, Missouri called Hermannhof, founded in 1852, for sale, and they bought it. The wines at Hermannhof are good, but the Missouri climate is not conducive to growing the best European varietals. They fell in love with and purchased the Star Lane Ranch east of Santa Barbara while on a business trip. Its warm climate is great for Cabernet. The couple subsequently purchased cooler vineyards in Santa Maria and Santa Rita Hills for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The Pinots are quite good, and we may carry them in the future.

Celani Family Boccata Chardonnay, Napa, 2007 ($24.99) - Best known for their Ardore Cabernet ($175 per bottle!), Celani Family Vineyards also makes an estate-grown Chardonnay. Finished in new French oak barrels, toasted individually to enhance the flavor and fragrance of the wine, it is unfiltered so the lees can settle to the bottom of the barrel and add immeasurably to the wine’s bouquet and taste. Although it does not carry the term "reserve" on the label, this is a reserve quality wine. Partial malolactic fermentation gives it vibrantly intense aromas of pear, honeysuckle minerals, and marzipan but also maintains good acidity to give this wine balance and a refreshingly crisp, long tropical finish. It clearly shows the oak influence, but with airing and as it warms up, plenty of classic Chardonnay fruit emerges from this serious wine. No detail is too small for Celani. The antique green bottle is produced in France by Saver Glass and its label is designed by renowned Napa artist Jeffrey Caldewey. The cork is imported from Sardinia, Italy and made by Ganau. This new release hasn't been reviewed, but the Wine Spectator loved the 2006: "90 points. Fresh with lively acidity. The citrus, quince, green apple, and subtle mineral and herbal notes are focused, complex, and well-proportioned, ending with a long, clean, fruity aftertaste."

Brutocao Cellars Reserve Chardonnay 2006 ($29.99) - Brutocao Cellars is the source of the Bliss line of wines that we carry. The winery's best wines are produced under the Brutocao label. The Reserve Chard is rich and ripe with apple and tropical fruit flavors. Plush oak shows but doesnft dominate, and there are hints of crème brulé and clean mineral notes. And you thought it just tasted like wine!

Nicholson Ranch Chardonnay, Sonoma, 2006 ($29.99) and Chardonnay "Cuvée Natalie Reserve," Sonoma, 2003 ($47.50) - Ramona Nicholson and Deepak Gulrajani run this winery nestled in the southern foothills of Sonoma Valley. Best known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they also produce Merlot and Syrah. Ramona was raised in the original ranch house. She and Deepak planted vineyards in 1996 and began making wine in 2000. The 2006 Chard shows orange blossom, lemon, and passionfruit on the nose. The palate is lush with a rich mouthfeel, a hint of oak, and a lingering finish. The Cuvée Natalie Reserve is amazingly dense yet elegant with an explosive bouquet and a palate of pineapple, orange blossom, white currants, and copious tropical fruits accented by sweet French oak. Full bodied, with tremendous length and intensity, its underlying acidity and minerality have allowed this complex wine to age beautifully.

Stealth Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2008 ($44.99; Sale $34.99) - Stealth is a label for high quality California wines from prestigious wineries that cannot sell under their own label all that they produce. They sell off some of their wine at a much-reduced price to be bottled under the Stealth label. We can't divulge the name of the winery, but the wine was described by Robert Parker as "offers up aromas of white peaches, apricots, honeysuckle, and Asian pears in a medium-bodied, pure, and fresh style. With good acidity, a subtle note of wood, and a layered finish, it can be enjoyed over the next several years." Instead of $45, we can sell it for $35! Elegance and style is the hall this Signature Russian River Chardonnay. The chalky soils and cool climate of this Russian River vineyard allows Chardonnay to ripen slowly and completely, revealing concentrated flavors of bright citrus and stone fruits. The finished wine offers great character and poise with an expressive balance of acidity and minerality.

Robert Mueller Chardonnay “LB,” Russian River Valley, 2006 ($35.99) - The 2006 vintage ‘LB’ utilizes Wente clone fruit from the prized Ledbetter vineyard. Perched on a gentle hillside with eastern exposure and summer fog, this vineyard consistently yields wonderful Chardonnay. Wine Spectator: 93 “Smooth and creamy, with a minerally edge to the ripe pear, apple and melon notes that are tight and focused, with a touch of mineral, anise and spice. Has excellent length. Drink now through 2012. 941 cases produced.”

Rodney Strong Chardonnay Reserve, Russian River Valley, 2006 ($39.99 net) - Wine Spectator: 94! "Wonderful perfumed aromas fold over to the palate, which is full-bodied and ultra-rich without being heavy, delivering tiers of ripe fig, apricot and green apple, shaded by spicy, toasty oak. Better than previously reviewed. Drink now through 2012."

Santa Barbara's Brewer-Clifton is a cult winery. The 2009s haven't yet been reviewed, but the Seasmoke Chardonnay ($63) received Parker ratings between 92 and 96 for the last four vintages. "Two brilliant young winemakers, Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton, are symbolic of California high quality wine production. Informed by French and Italian experiences as well as their belief in the cool climate sites of Santa Rita Hills, they have proven that remarkable wines can emerge from this relatively new viticultural region. Their Chardonnays, which go through full malo-lactic fermentation, see very little new oak. They are not fined or filtered, have high alcohols, yet have extraordinary freshness and acidity."

Sauvignon Blanc
Pure Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 ($10.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The back label reports that they are made by the Underground Winery. Go figure! The offerings under the Pure label are pure values. The Sauvignon Blanc is a tasty New Zealand-style wine with varietal character and good acidity. The Chardonnay is a bit dull with muted crispness, but it is better than most in this price range.

Bliss Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 ($10.99) - My favorite of the group, it shows fresh, bright, and very clean fruit. No points or medals; just darned good wine. Bliss Vineyards - Good California wines at this price are rare. These are real wines from a specific winery and a specific AVA (Mendocino); they are not generic “California” wines! In 1943 Irv Bliss bought a 450-acre Mendocino property consisting of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. By the 1970s, Irv was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes. Marriage brought the Brutocao and Bliss families together, and Brutocao Cellars began making wine in 1991. The majority of the grapes are sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess!

Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma, 2007 ($11.99) - This shows surprisingly intense and interesting aromatics for the price. The texture borders on fat, but there is lively acidity and a nice citrus quality. Acidity lingers on the finish but never turns tart. Quite good! Kenwood Vineyards was founded in 1970 when wine enthusiasts from the San Francisco Bay area refurbished the former Pagani Brothers Winery, which had originally been established in 1906. Although best known for red wines, Sauvignon Blanc makes up 20% of Kenwood's production.

Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc, California, 2010 ($12.99) - Geyser Peak is not the typical small producer that we like to feature; in fact, 82,000 cases of this wine were made. But it is bright, lively, and absolutely delicious! It even took the number one spot in a recent tasting of SBs (up to $36!) by the newsletter California Grapevine: "16.4/20 Light yellow color; attractive, floral, grassy, citrus and green apple aroma with hints of gooseberry, orange blossom, and jasmine; medium-full body; herbal, grassy flavors with crisp acidity and a silky mouth feel; lingering aftertaste. Shows prominent grassy varietal character hinting of a New Zealand style and developed with airing in the glass. Very highly recommended. 13.0% alcohol; 100% SB; no barrel fermentation or malo-lactic fermentation." Geyser Peak Winery goes back to 1880 when it was founded by Augustus Quitzow, one of Sonoma County's pioneer winemakers. The original winery was built in Geyserville in 1882 on a hillside across from Geyser Peak Mountain. The winery has long since been corporate owned (Fortune Brand’s Beam Estates, then Constellation Brands, and now Ascentia Wine Estates. Ascentia also owns Buena Vista, Atlas Peak, Gary Farrell, Columbia Winery, Covey Run, and Ste. Chapelle).

Duck Walk Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée Select, North Fork-Long Island, 2009 ($12.99) - Long Island wines, although of mostly good quality, have not always been good values; however, this one competes favorably with Sauvignon Blancs from California and Europe. It shows pretty melon-like flavors with overtones of citrus, lychee, and grass. This bottling represents the best lots of Duck Walk’s Sauvignon; the others were blended into a "Windmill White." Serve it with seafood, poultry, and spicy fare.

Pomelo Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 ($12.99) - Made by Randy Mason of Mason Vineyards from purchased Lake County fruit, the 2005 Pomelo was our featured wine last June. The new vintage is very much in the same, delicious style. Relatively low yields - five tons per acre is unusual for a wine in this price range - are part of the reason for the intense flavor and appealing texture of this wine. With a clear, silvery-straw color, Pomelo Sauv Blanc has a stylish bouquet of grapefruit, lemon grass, and star anise. This unoaked wine is snappy, fresh, and clean. It has great herbaceous character, but it avoids the aggressiveness of many Sauvignon Blancs. The pomelo is a giant citrus fruit native to Malaysia and thought to be an ancestor of the grapefruit.

Rockslide Road Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma, 2009 ($13.98) - This little gem is made by Bill Knuttel who previously made wines at Saintsbury, Chalk Hill, and Dry Creek. It is balanced, flavorful, and its quality far exceeds its price.

Lion’s Ridge Sauvignon Blanc, 2008 ($14.99) - Lion’s Ridge is a label from Clos La Chance. This steely Sauvignon shows good varietal fruit that is kept from becoming too aggressive by short barrel aging. These crisp wines are perfect for summer fare.

Hanna Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley - Sonoma, 2009 ($16.99) - Hanna was founded in the mid-1980s with twelve acres in the Russian River Valley by Dr. Elias Hanna. Today the endeavor consists of 250 acres split between four vineyards in the RRV, Alexander Valley, and the Mayacamas Mountains. Daughter Christine Hanna runs the show. This wine saw a few months in used wood, but there is no oak evident on the palate. It has a vibrant straw color with hints of green and aromatic elements of grapefruit, tangelo, quince, mint, basil, and pear. The flavor profile evokes kiwi, lime zest, and an explosive mid palate of lemon, peach, honey, and grass with a bright, clean finish. The overall palate impression is one of softness (the result of its acidity being only 6.5 g/l) and fruitiness. It is very appealing.

Emmolo Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, 2008 ($16.99) – Caymus Vineyards made a wonderful Sauvignon Blanc many years ago, but in an amicable divorce Chuck Wagner’s ex-wife, Cheryl, came away with the Sauvignon Blanc vineyard. She now makes the wine under her maiden name at the Caymus winery. Many wonderful Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc vineyards have been grafted over to red varietals which command a much higher price, but Cheryl is adamant about maintaining the Sauvignon Blanc tradition. The 2006 vintage has just been released, and it is delicious. The grassy and grapefruit components that some find too aggressive in Sauvignon Blanc are well restrained here, and the rich mouthfeel is especially impressive. Delightfully well balanced, this wine sports a modest alcohol level of 12.8%. It is very good juice!

Shelter Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, 2007 ($19.99) - The best wineries and the best winemakers often have small lots of high-end wine left over after blending. With their friendships and deep rooted relationships in Napa Valley, the owners of the Shelter project can buy this wine at a fraction of the original price. They end up with excellent wine that sells for well under its inherent value. No pretension - just killer wine. The sources are “sheltered” from the public (and from me). These wines are a steal! We will be getting different batches from time to time. There will be little continuity, for the amounts available are by definition small - a few hundred cases at most. This stunning Sauvignon Blanc, our first Shelter offering, is everything you could possibly want from a new world Sauvignon. It has lovely aromatics focused on melon, pineapple, and fig with grapefruit showing underneath. With its soft texture, and deliciously ripe fruit, this fairly full-bodied wine is a find. Approximately 300 cases were made.

Sbragia Family Sauvignon Blanc Home Ranch, Dry Creek Valley - Sonoma, 2009 ($19.99) - A giant among California winemakers, Ed Sbragia began at Beringer in 1976 under the tutelage of the legendary Myron Nightingale. Ed took over as head winemaker when Nightingale retired in 1984. Ed made Beringer's wonderful Cab Reserves and oversaw the other wines until 2008 when he left (He is still Winemaker Emeritus) to focus on his family winery. Sbragia produces only 6000 cases per year. His Chard and reds are quite good, but this is the star. The grapes are grown on the Home Ranch Vineyard that the family has been farming for decades. The five-acre Sauv Blanc parcel benefits from cooler temperatures than most of Dry Creek resulting in a Sauvignon with bright fruit flavors, good structure, and nicely balanced acidity. The bright citrus aroma is followed by luscious pear and apple flavors. It is very refined with just a hint of oak treatment (three-year old barrels) and a soft, round, melt-in-your-mouth texture. The touch of residual sugar (9 grams/liter) adds texture but is not perceived as sweetness because of the low pH (3.1) and good acidity (7.1 grams/liter).

Eagle Eye Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 ($22.99) - What do you get when you mix an artist and a chef together? I’m not sure, but Roxanne Wolf is the artist who designed the unusual labels, and husband Bill is the chef. Using green and sustainable farming practices, Bill makes small lots (400 to 700 cases each) of 6 to 8 different wines each year mostly from their Napa Valley vineyard. The SB is a lovely blend of 78% Sauv Blanc, 16% Pinot Gris, and 6% Roussane. It has structure and complexity like no other. In the glass you will see a straw color and smell grapefruit, passion fruit, and guava with hints of lime. The first sip is alive on the palate with orange blossoms and tropical citrus flavors. A long crisp finish with lingering citrus completes the taste sensation. Pair this wine with soft cheeses, seafood, grilled vegetables, chicken, and ripe red berries and fruit.

Vogelzang Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 ($31.99) - This is the best, most complete American SB I have tasted in a long time. It shows a refinement and balance that are rare. Much as I like the Grgich Fumé, this one is better. I couldn’t find a review of this wine, but Parker’s comments on the 2005 are also appropriate for the 2007: 90 “An outstanding example of this varietal. It is a green, grassy effort with plenty of power as well as intensity, acidity, and flavor. The aromas and flavors lean toward the grassy, melony side of Sauvignon. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.” In addition to making their own wine, Jim and Mary Beth Vogelzang sell grapes from their 77-acre property in the Happy Canyon region of the Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County) to Foxen, Qupe, and others. More info can be found at www.vogelzangvineyard.com.

Other Whites
Kenwood White Table Wine 2007 ($7.99) - Here is a perfect solution for everyday enjoyment in these trying economic times. Unknown to most, Kenwood has always made small quantities of flawless, inexpensive wine from leftover batches and some purchased fruit. It is a blend of 65% Chardonnay, 30% Sauv Blanc, and 5% Chenin Blanc. A hint of the Sauvignon shows in the nose. This is a light, crisp, clean, and very pleasant wine with a touch of creaminess from the 20% of the Chardonnay that was barrel fermented, which is unheard of at this price!

Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Pinot Gris, Monterey, 2008 ($16.99) - I bet you never thought Beekmans would recommend a K-J wine, but actually we are much more about the quality in the bottle than the name on the label, and this is a really good wine that is well priced. Alsatian in style, it has good minerality, nice acidity, and, like all K-J wines, great fruit.

Spindrift Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley - Oregon, 2007 ($16.99) - Owners Matt and Tabitha Compton began making wine in 2003 using mostly purchased grapes from vineyards that Matt manages. All are "Salmon Safe" and certified sustainable. This Pinot Gris is melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Its soft, sensuous texture makes it perfect for casual sipping, but it also pairs nicely with a wide range of food. Only 690 cases were made. The grapes were whole cluster-pressed and cool-fermented in stainless steel to retain its bright fruit. The wine spent three months on the lees before 1.5% Gewurztraminer was added to soften the acidity (7.05 grams/liter) and brighten the aroma. Wine Enthusiast: 90 "This excellent Pinot Gris brings crisp, enticing flavors that perfectly mix pear skin, citrus, and spice with a finish that somehow evokes coffee grounds and caramel. What a riot of flavor! Better yet, the alcohol is an unbelievable 12.5% - unheard of in the last two decades. Tart and juicy, this is as European as it gets in Oregon."

Chateau Grand Traverse "Ship of Fools,"2008 ($17.99), Dry Riesling, 2008 ($16.99), and Whole Cluster Riesling, Michigan, 2008 ($17.99) - On a recent vacation, my wife and I found surprisingly good white wines being made in Nova Scotia. While those Canadian wines are not available here, the wines from another off-the-beaten-path discovery - Michigan of all places - are. A cluster of good wineries lie on and near the Old Mission Peninsula about 120 miles north of Grand Rapids. The deep water of Lake Michigan's Grand Traverse Bay buffer the air temperatures and protect the vines from what would otherwise be too extreme a climate. CGT was founded in 1974 by Edward O'Keefe. The Ship of Fools, a blend of mostly Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, is a dry, clean, medium-bodied wine with a very pleasing peachy character. Both Rieslings are well made. The Dry Riesling is not as high in acid as expected, but it has a nice balance and is very solid. More Moselle in style, the Whole Cluster Riesling is almost spätlese in style with nice balancing acidity. Michigan wines! What next? Virginia? Tune in next month!

Eagle Eye Vineyards Muscat Canelli, 2007 ($21.99) - What do you get when you mix an artist and a chef together? I’m not sure, but Roxanne Wolf is the artist who designed the unusual labels, and husband Bill is the chef. Using green and sustainable farming practices, Bill makes small lots (400 to 700 cases each) of 6 to 8 different wines each year mostly from their Napa Valley vineyard. The sweet Muscat Canelli has a nose of aromas of peaches, apricots and orange blossoms. One sip will fill your mouth with opulent tropical fruits including lychee, tangerine, and notes of ripe cantaloupe. The finish is long and balanced. This Muscat Canelli is a “tropical fruit basket” in a glass. Serve it as an aperitif or with cheeses, spicy foods, fresh fruit, and desserts. This wine is made from purchased fruit, 60% from Mendocino and 40% from Napa.

Copain Tous Ensemble Viognier, Mendocino, 2009 ($22.99) - It has been several years since Wells Guthrie produced his "Saisons" line - four attractive wines that were released with each new season. He has now come out with the Tous Ensemble (French for "all together") label, and the quality is equally good even though the price is a little higher. The fruit is purchased from several organic Mendocino vineyards. The Viognier (with 10% Roussane) is harmoniously integrated, seamless, and exuberant. Honeyed peach and citrus blossom aromas dominate the nose and carry onto the palate, that is lush with apricot and kumquat fruit as well as refreshing acidity. Nicely balanced, it avoids the high alcohol and sweetness of many Viogniers. Wells apprenticed with Michel Chapoutier in France's Rhône Valley before starting the Copain venture.

Angels’ Share: Surh-Luchtel Viognier “Fortunati Vineyard,” Napa (Oak Knoll), 2006 ($32.99) - This is one of the best and most interesting white wines I have tasted in months. It is not a wonderful Viognier because it does not have much Viognier character. It is, however, an outstanding, lees aged, unoaked white wine with a perfect balance of clean fruit and refreshing acidity. It shows neither the sweetness nor the high alcohol typical of Viognier. Yum, yum, yum! Don Surh and Gary Luchtel make small batches of wine from purchased grapes. We also carry their Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir. Go to www.surhluchtel for more info.