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Dessert

Port   Sauternes   Others

Port
Poças 20-Year Tawny Porto ($39.99) - Poças is not a well-known Port house, primarily because it is the only one in Portugal that is still family-owned. It was begun in 1918 by Manoel Poças and an uncle. Today the winery is run by the third and fourth generation including current winemaker Jorge Manuel Pintåo whose degrees in Chemistry and Oenology have helped him win the 2001 "Fortified Winemaker of the Year" by the International Wine Challenge.

Delaforce Vintage Port, 2000 (was $54.99; sale $35.99) - Port in the summer? You'd be surprised. Besides this is an incredible opportunity to stock up on a delicious, ready-to-drink Port for the fall and winter. Parker: 90  "Sweet, open-knit, precocious style. Dense color with sweet, accessible black cherry/blackberry fruit, smoke, earth, and truffles. A lush, medium to full-bodied, juicy, succulent effort. Now - 2017." Tanzer: 90 "Full medium ruby. Roasted black raspberry and cassis lifted by musky espresso and an exotic smoky, peaty element. Dense and rich; sweet and approachable but with shape and grip. Smoke and earth notes. Very good length."

Ramos Pinto, 2000 ($45.99) - Parker 91 "Seductive, sexy, accessible. Dense with jammy red & black fruits, smoke, earth, licorice. Sweet, layered, full-bodied. Now-2020"

Churchill Vintage Porto “Quinta de Aqua Alta,” 1995 ($49.99) - Parker: 94 “Churchill has established an impeccable reputation for superb quality, even though it has been operating for only 17 years.” 1995 was a very good vintage, but because it followed the spectacular 1994, most Port houses did not declare it. Churchill decided to release a vintage-style port using only the grapes from their best vineyard, Quinta de Aqua Alta. This lush, rich, and fleshy port is already drinking quite well. It will continue to evolve over the next 5 years.

Churchill Vintage Port Single Quinta Agua Alta, 1990 ($59.99) - Although this Port has reached maturity, it will easily hold and perhaps even develop for another 10 years. Parker: 92  “The opaque black/purple-colored 1990 Agua Alta exhibits an intense fragrance of black fruits and chocolate, full body, admirable power and richness, and is significantly more concentrated than the 1991 Vintage. It is a 25-30 year port. Very impressive!”

Croft Vintage Port, 2000 ($59.99) - Robert Parker: 90 “A striking, individualistic nose of spring flowers, blackberries, blueberries, and lead pencil shavings. Saturated, evolved yet expansive, sweet, and generous, it conceals moderately high tannins under a wealth of fruit and glycerin. The aromatic profile and attack merit a score in the mid-nineties, but the finish is short. My instincts suggest there is more to this port than it revealed when I tasted it. 2007-2025”  

Quinto do Vesuvio Vintage Port, 2001 ($59.99) - Records of Vesuvio date to 1565, but the modern estate began in 1820 when the husband of Dona Antonia Adelaide Ferreira began a 13-year program  constructing terraces on the intractable slopes and planting the vines, each of which required punching a hole though solid slate. After his death, the widow continued developing the property and built its reputation. That reputation (and the label) eventually lapsed until the Symington family (Dow’s, Graham’s, Warre’s) purchased the estate in 1989. Most Port houses declare vintage years only when quality is high and their stocks are running low. Demand for Vesuvio has exceeded supply, so after the excellent 2000, they were one of the few to declare in 2001. Vesuvio is also one of the few to still crush their grapes by foot treading.

Grahams Malvedos Vintage Port, 1995 ($59.95) - Wine Spectator: 89 “Plenty of plummy, grapey aromas and flavors in this young vintage Port. Medium- to full-bodied, with medium, fine tannins and a sweet fruit aftertaste. Best after 2004.” Enjoy this single quinta (vineyard) Port now while you wait for:

Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port, 2000 ($69.95) - Wine Spectator: 95 “Now we are talking. Wow. Aromas of licorice, flowers and crushed blackberries. Full-bodied and medium sweet, with lovely smooth, fine tannins and a long, sweet fruit finish. Greatest young Vintage Port of Smith Woodhouse I have ever tasted. Best after 2014. Highly Recommended, Top 100 Wines of 2003 (Rank 16!)

Delaforce Vintage Port 2003 ($69.99) - Wine Spectator: 89-91 “Balanced and pretty, with plum and raspberry aromas and flavors. Full-bodied, with ultra fine tannins and a long finish.”  

Cockburn Vintage Porto, 2000 ($79.99) - Parker: 95! "Potentially one of the most compelling wines of the vintage. A penetrating intensity that reverberates in the mouth & head. Full-bodied, massive, and concentrated, with a 45-second finish, this thrilling effort should drink well between 2010-2035."

Fonseca Vintage Porto, 2000 ($79.99) - Was $99.99! Parker: 95 “Densely colored, with an exotic, exuberant perfume of black fruits, flowers, incense, and licorice, this unctuously-textured, full-bodied port is one of the most concentrated of the vintage. Sweet, expansive, and succulent, this large-scaled, but remarkably well-balanced effort is surprisingly forward and accessible (for Fonseca). Drink: 2006-25.” Wine Spectator: 94 “Fabulous nose, full-bodied, and velvety, with super clean fruit and a long finish. A beauty. Best after 2011”

Taylor Fladgate Vintage Porto, 2000 ($95) - Parker:
98 “Among the most saturated examples of the vintage, this tastes like a young vintage of Ch. Latour on steroids. Aromas of graphite, blackberry liqueur, creme de cassis, and smoke jump from the glass. Spectacularly concentrated and enormously endowed, with sweetness, ripe tannin, decent acidity, and layer upon layer of fruit and extract, this is the leading candidate for the port of the vintage. Drink 2010-40.” Wine Spectator: 95 “Beautiful aromas of honeysuckle, violets, citrus, and berries, plus hints of fresh herbs. Full-bodied and chewy, with refined tannins and a long finish. Lasts for minutes on the palate. Elegant, yet powerful and fruity. Best after 2012”

Croft Vintage Port 2003 ($84.99/750ml and $44.99/375ml) - Wine Spectator: 95-100 “Incredible on the nose and palate. Masses of wild black fruits with an exotic undertone. Full-bodied, medium-sweet, and super velvety. It goes on and on. No doubt one of the best of the vintage. Could be the best Croft since 1945.”

Taylor-Fladgate Vintage Port 2003 ($99.95) - Always difficult to judge when young. Wine Spectator: 92-94 “Solid and powerful, with the dense mouth feel of a big rich young Port. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Very tight and muscular. Almost 95-100. Could turn out even better after bottling.”

Fonseca Vintage Port 2003 ($99.95) - Wine Spectator: 95-100: “Wild aromas, with flowers, blackberries, and passion fruit. Full-bodied, massive on the palate. Medium-sweet. The finish goes on for minutes. A mega young Port. Fonseca. What do you expect?”


Sauternes
Chateau Doisy Vedrines, Sauternes-Barsac, 2004 ($24.99/375 ml) - Wine Spectator: 89-91 “Long, with lots of apricot and spice on the nose and palate. Medium sweet. Yummy finish.” 

Chateau Lamothe-Guignard Sauternes, 2003 ($39.99/750ml, $22.99/375ml) - Parker: 90-93 “The 2003s appear to be in the style of the 1990s, with high levels of residual sugar (mostly higher than 2001) as well as botrytis, low acidity, and fat, full-bodied personalities. It does not appear that the nobleness and racy richness of the 2001 vintage will be found in the 2003s, but readers who like the big, flamboyant, over the top style of the 1990s will enjoy the 2003s.” Wine Spectator: 92 “Intense aromas of dried lemons, honey and apricots follow through to a full-bodied, dense palate of very sweet fruit that shows masses of dried fruit character. Lasts a very long time on the palate. Even better than from barrel. Yummy. Best after 2009.”

Château La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 2003 ($35.99/375ml) Robert Parker 96! Wine Spectator: 97 “Dark gold in color already, with intense aromas of dried apricots, citrus, honey, and maple syrup with lots of spice. Full-bodied, with lovely sweetness and a long, creamy peach tart, tobacco, honey aftertaste. This is pure botrytis. Best ever from here. Has an incredible finish. Best after 2010. 2,915 cases made."

Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2002 ($165/375ml) - Wine Spectator: 96 "Beautiful apple, vanilla and honey aromas, with just the right amount of new wood. Full-bodied, medium sweet, with lots of pretty pineapple and honey. Long and refined. A beautifully silky and balanced Sauternes. Lots of intensity and well-knit. Unrivaled in this vintage. Best after 2009."

Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2001 ($549.95/750ml) - The wine industry has been abuzz over this wine for two years. Both the Wine Spectator and Robert Parker call it a perfect wine! Spectator:100 100: “The greatest young Yquem I have ever tasted. Yellow, with a golden hue and an almost green tint. Intense aromas of botrytis, spices, and blanched almonds follow through to honey, maple syrup, dried apricot, and pineapple. Full-bodied, sweet, thick, and powerful with layers of fruit and a bright, lively finish. Coats the palate, yet remains exciting. So balanced and refined, showing the pedigree that only this estate can deliver.” Parker: 100 “There are 10,000 cases of this perfect sweet white Bordeaux. With airing it offers up honeyed tropical fruit, orange marmalade, pineapple, sweet crème brulée, and buttered nut-like scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied with massive concentration and unctuosity. Everything is uplifted and given laser-like focus by refreshing acidity. This large-scaled, youthful Yquem appears set to take its place among the most legendary vintages of the past, and it will age effortlessly for 75+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2100+.” Be an optimist; lay away a bottle!


Others
Beaumalric Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise, 2007 ($15.99/375 ml) - Although not a household name, Beaumes-de-Venise is a highly respected dessert wine. This small appellation lies two miles east of the Rhône town of Gigondas. Daniel Begouassel’s family began here three generations ago as growers and vine plant experts (pepinierists). Daniel’s wine making style is modern; his wine exhibits more freshness and elegance than others in the region. The small quantity made at Domaine de Beaumalric makes it easier to control the process at a consistently high level. Daniel waits until mid-October to harvest his grapes at full ripeness. The objective is not to over-ripen the grapes, but to obtain maximum freshness and fruit, ensuring better balance. Similar to Port, Beaumes-de-Venise is made by adding neutral spirits to arrest fermentation before all of the natural sugars of the Muscat grapes have been consumed.

Commandaria St. John, Greek Cyprus, NV ($22.99) - Sweet, with an orange peel character, this fabulous dessert wine is reminiscent of a 30-year old tawny port. Xinisteri (Zee NEES tee ree) grapes are harvested and spread out in the sun to dry. The shriveled grapes with concentrated sugar and flavor are fermented until the process stops naturally at about 14% alcohol with substantial sugar still remaining. The wine is then aged in oak barrels for a minimum of two years. Similar to the solera system, the barrels are never completely emptied. When a portion of the aged wine is removed for bottling, new wine is added to the remaining old wine, and the process begins again. St. John Commandaria has a powerful bouquet filled with dried fruits, spices, and oak. It is luscious, full-bodied, and an exceptional dessert wine value.

Lyre D’Arjolle Muscat “Lyre”, 1998 ($25.99/500ml) - Although this is a relatively expensive dessert wine, it is just terrific. A late harvest muscat from the Cotes de Thongue in the Languedoc, it is very much in a Sauternes style using plenty of new oak. The incredible aroma of perfume, muscat and new oak is very complex. This is sweet, but nicely balanced. Yummy!

Gunderloch Beerenauslese “Messidor,” Rheinhessen, 2003 ($25.99/375 ml) - Conditions are favorable for German iceweins only two or three years out of each decade. In other quality vintages, numerous Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslen are equally fine. This one is a blend from several vineyards, so it doesn’t carry a town or vineyard designation. The plus is that the price is very good for a quality Beerenauslese. Complex, layered, sweet, and delicious!

Alcyone, Atlantida ($31.99/500ml) - A remarkable dessert wine from, of all places, Uruguay! It is made from Tannat, a rustic varietal from southwestern France (Madiran) that has found a home in Uruguay. Although Tannat usually makes intense wines featuring red fruits and tannin, solera-style aging has tamed this sweet version into a smooth, refined beauty. Uruguayan table wines are acceptable at best, but this is delicious. Think caramel and vanilla! Think yummm!

Domaine des Baumard Quarts des Chaumes, Loire, 2003 ($37.99) - Wine Spectator: 96! "Highly Recommended. This has a very powerful, concentrated core of almond, white peach, honeysuckle, mineral and candied lemon peel, but all is meshed perfectly together on a creamy, porcelain texture and glides effortlessly through the finish. Extremely long and finely detailed. A worthy rival to the slightly purer '02. Best from 2007 through 2030. 1,250 cases made."

Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, 1999 ($55.99/500ml) - Hungary produces outstanding dessert wines. This is one of the best I have tasted. Very modern and clean in style, it is quite sweet and shows botrytis on the nose, a fat and silky texture, fabulously complex flavors, and a lengthy finish. It more closely resembles outstanding Sauternes than cheaper Tokajis.


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