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Port Churchill Vintage Porto “Quinta de Aqua Alta,” 1995 ($49.99) - Parker 94: “Churchill has established an impeccable reputation for superb quality, even though it has been operating for only 17 years.” 1995 was a very good vintage, but because it followed the spectacular 1994, most Port houses did not declare it. Churchill decided to release a vintage-style port using only the grapes from their best vineyard, Quinta de Aqua Alta. This lush, rich, and fleshy port is already drinking quite well. It will continue to evolve over the next 5 years. Delaforce Quinta Corte Oporto, 2000 ($57.99) - Parker 90 "Made in a sweet, open-knit, precocious style. Sweet, accessible black cherry/blackberry fruit with hints of smoke, earth, & truffles. Lush, juicy, succulent. Now-2017" Churchill Vintage Port Single Quinta Agua Alta, 1990 ($59.99) - Although this Port has reached maturity, it will easily hold and perhaps even develop for another 10 years. Parker 92: “The opaque black/purple-colored 1990 Agua Alta exhibits an intense fragrance of black fruits and chocolate, full body, admirable power and richness, and is significantly more concentrated than the 1991 Vintage. It is a 25-30 year port. Very impressive!”
Croft Vintage Port,
2000 ($59.99) - Robert Parker 90: “A striking, individualistic nose
of spring flowers, blackberries, blueberries, and lead pencil shavings.
Saturated, evolved yet expansive, sweet, and generous, it conceals moderately
high tannins under a wealth of fruit and glycerin. The aromatic profile and
attack merit a score in the mid-nineties, but the finish is short. My instincts
suggest there is more to this port than it revealed when I tasted it.
2007-2025”
Quinto
do Vesuvio Vintage Port, 2001
($59.99) - Records of Vesuvio date to 1565,
but the modern estate began in 1820 when the husband of Dona Antonia Adelaide
Ferreira began a 13-year program constructing
terraces on the intractable slopes and planting the vines, each of which
required punching a hole though solid slate. After his death, the widow
continued developing the property and built its reputation. That reputation (and
the label) eventually lapsed until the Symington family (Dow’s, Graham’s,
Warre’s) purchased the estate in 1989. Most Port houses declare vintage years
only when quality is high and their stocks are running low. Demand for Vesuvio
has exceeded supply, so after the excellent 2000, they were one of the few to
declare in 2001. Vesuvio is also one of the few to still crush their grapes by
foot treading. Delaforce
Vintage Port 2003
($69.99) - Wine Spectator 89-91: “Balanced and pretty, with plum and raspberry aromas
and flavors. Full-bodied, with ultra fine tannins and a long finish.” Cockburn Vintage Porto, 2000 ($79.99) - Parker 95! "Potentially one of the most compelling wines of the vintage. A penetrating intensity that reverberates in the mouth & head. Full-bodied, massive, and concentrated, with a 45-second finish, this thrilling effort should drink well between 2010-2035." Fonseca Vintage Porto,
2000 ($79.99) - Was $99.99! Parker 95: “Densely colored, with
an exotic, exuberant perfume of black fruits, flowers, incense, and
licorice, this unctuously-textured, full-bodied port is one of the most
concentrated of the vintage. Sweet, expansive, and succulent, this
large-scaled, but remarkably well-balanced effort is surprisingly forward
and accessible (for Fonseca). Drink: 2006-25.” Wine Spectator:
94
“Fabulous nose, full-bodied, and velvety, with super clean fruit and a
long finish. A beauty. Best after 2011” Croft
Vintage Port 2003
($84.99/750ml and $44.99/375ml) - Wine Spectator 95-100: “Incredible on the nose and palate. Masses of wild
black fruits with an exotic undertone. Full-bodied, medium-sweet, and super
velvety. It goes on and on. No doubt one of the best of the vintage. Could be
the best Croft since 1945.” Taylor-Fladgate
Vintage Port 2003 ($99.95) - Always difficult to judge when young.
Wine Spectator 92-94: “Solid and
powerful, with the dense mouth feel of a big rich young Port. Full-bodied, with
velvety tannins and a long finish. Very tight and muscular. Almost 95-100. Could
turn out even better after bottling.” Fonseca Vintage Port 2003 ($99.95) - Wine Spectator 95-100: “Wild aromas, with flowers, blackberries, and passion fruit. Full-bodied, massive on the palate. Medium-sweet. The finish goes on for minutes. A mega young Port. Fonseca. What do you expect?” Sauternes Chateau
Doisy Vedrines, Sauternes-Barsac, 2004
($22.99/375 ml) - Wine Spectator 89-91:
“Long, with lots of apricot and spice on the nose and palate. Medium sweet.
Yummy finish.”
Chateau Lamothe-Guignard Sauternes, 2003
($39.99/750ml, $22.99/375ml) - Parker 90-93: “The 2003s appear
to be in the style of the 1990s, with high levels of residual sugar (mostly
higher than 2001) as well as botrytis, low acidity, and fat, full-bodied
personalities. It does not appear that the nobleness and racy richness of the
2001 vintage will be found in the 2003s, but readers who like the big,
flamboyant, over the top style of the 1990s will enjoy the 2003s.” Wine
Spectator 92: “Intense aromas of dried lemons, honey and apricots
follow through to a full-bodied, dense palate of very sweet fruit that shows
masses of dried fruit character. Lasts a very long time on the palate. Even
better than from barrel. Yummy. Best after 2009.”
Château
La Tour Blanche, Sauternes, 2003
($32.99/375ml) Robert Parker 96! Wine Spectator
97: “Dark gold in color already, with intense aromas of dried apricots,
citrus, honey, and maple syrup with lots of spice. Full-bodied, with lovely
sweetness and a long, creamy peach tart, tobacco, honey aftertaste. This is pure
botrytis. Best ever from here. Has an incredible finish. Best after 2010. 2,915
cases made."
Chateau
d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2002
($165/375ml) - WS 96: Beautiful apple, vanilla and honey aromas,
with just the right amount of new wood. Full-bodied, medium sweet, with
lots of pretty pineapple and honey. Long and refined. A beautifully silky
and balanced Sauternes. Lots of intensity and well-knit. Unrivaled in this
vintage. Best after 2009. Chateau
d’Yquem, Sauternes, 2001 ($549.95/750ml) - The wine
industry has been abuzz over this wine for two years. Both the Wine Spectator
and Robert Parker call it a perfect wine! Spectator 100: “The
greatest young Yquem I have ever tasted. Yellow, with a golden hue and an almost
green tint. Intense aromas of botrytis, spices, and blanched almonds follow
through to honey, maple syrup, dried apricot, and pineapple. Full-bodied, sweet,
thick, and powerful with layers of fruit and a bright, lively finish. Coats the
palate, yet remains exciting. So balanced and refined, showing the pedigree that
only this estate can deliver.” Parker 100: “There are 10,000 cases of
this perfect sweet white Bordeaux. With airing it offers up honeyed tropical
fruit, orange marmalade, pineapple, sweet crème brulée, and buttered
nut-like scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied with massive concentration and
unctuosity. Everything is uplifted and given laser-like focus by refreshing
acidity. This large-scaled, youthful Yquem appears set to take its place among
the most legendary vintages of the past, and it will age effortlessly for 75+
years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2100+.” Be an optimist; lay away a bottle! Other Rosenblum Desirée,
NV ($19.99/375 ml) - This is a dangerous dessert
wine. It is so good and so compelling that people could easily lose self control
and do wicked things - especially to get another sip! Made from Portuguese red
varietals, Zinfandel, and grain neutral spirits, it is somewhat Port-like, but
it is also infused with high quality chocolate syrup! Chocoholics won’t
believe how wickedly good this is. Don’t say we didn’t warn you about the
consequences. Cave Spring Late Harvest
Riesling “Indian Summer,” 2003 ($19.99/375 ml) -
This Auslese-style wine is from 2 different Niagara properties and is made from
partially frozen grapes . Clearly a dessert wine, it has distinct sweetness, but
again the acid is in good balance. It has an appealing uniqueness.
Lyre
D’Arjolle Muscat “Lyre”, 1998 ($25.99/500ml) - Although this is a
relatively expensive dessert wine, it is just terrific. A late harvest muscat
from the Cotes de Thongue in the Languedoc, it is very much in a Sauternes style
using plenty of new oak. The incredible aroma of perfume, muscat and new oak is
very complex. This is sweet, but nicely balanced. Yummy!
Gunderloch
Beerenauslese “Messidor,” Rheinhessen, 2003 ($25.99/375
ml) - Conditions are favorable for German
iceweins only two or three years out of each decade. In other quality vintages,
numerous Beerenauslesen and Trockenbeerenauslen are equally fine. This one is a
blend from several vineyards, so it doesn’t carry a town or vineyard
designation. The plus is that the price is very good for a quality Beerenauslese.
Complex, layered, sweet, and delicious!
Alcyone, Atlantida
($29.99/500ml) - A remarkable dessert wine from, of all places, Uruguay! It is
made from Tannat, a rustic varietal from southwestern France (Madiran) that has
found a home in Uruguay. Although Tannat usually makes intense wines featuring
red fruits and tannin, solera-style aging has tamed this sweet version into a
smooth, refined beauty. Uruguayan table wines are acceptable at best, but this
is delicious. Think caramel and vanilla! Think yummm!
Oremus Tokaji Aszú 5 Puttonyos, 1999
($55.99/500ml) - Hungary produces outstanding dessert wines. This is one
of the best I have tasted. Very modern and clean in style, it is quite
sweet and shows botrytis on the nose, a fat and silky texture, fabulously
complex flavors, and a lengthy finish. It more closely resembles
outstanding Sauternes than cheaper Tokajis.
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