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Bordeaux Burgundy Rhône Others Bordeaux 2006 2005
Chateau Le Manceau, Premier Côtes de Blaye, 2005 ($13.59) - Côtes de Blaye lies immediately across the Gironde estuary from Saint Julien and due north of Côtes de Bourg. Its best wines may use the "Premier" designation. While it will never compete with the best of the Haut-Médoc, in great years like 2005 lovely wines as well as fine values can be found here. This soft, mature wine displays very good, surprisingly ripe fruit in a slightly dark style. A blend of 60% Merlot with the remainder Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon, it is a terrific value. Château de La Grave "Charactere," Cotes de Bourg, 2005 ($16.99) - The property, owned by Philippe and Valérie Bassereau, is located near the medieval town of Bourg on the right bank of the Gironde River. The château that has been their family's home for 100 years. Built in 1740, this small, turreted château is the epitome of the 'fairytale castle' of childhood dreams. The impressive winery and barrel cellar are beautifully situated among rolling vine-covered hills. "Charactere" is the name of the prestige cuvée made from the oldest (50-year old cane-pruned vines) and best vines on the estate. This blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Cabernet Franc was aged for 16-18 months in barrique. It is dramatically rich and well-balanced with tannins that argue for further aging, a pleasing texture, and a complex finish. The flavor profile includes fruit, tobacco, wood, and a hint of forest/moss character. An excellent Bordeaux value! Chateau Lucas, Lussac St.-Emilion, 2005 ($19.99) - Surprisingly refined for this price, this charming wine shows ripe cherry fruit, some complexity, and just a hint of tannin in the finish. Lucas is a blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc from vines that average 25 years of age. No insecticides or weed killers are used. Maceration is from 15 to 21 days, and aging takes place 80% in vats and 20% in old barrels. The property has 22 acres of vineyards and produces an average of 5000 cases per year. Château Petit Bocq, St.-Estephe, 2005 ($26.99) - Wine Spectator: 89-91 "Blackberry and currants follow through to a medium-bodied palate, with fine tannins and a fresh, fruity aftertaste." Chateau Lanessan, Haut-Médoc, 2005 ($27.99) - Although not a classified growth, Lanessan has a sterling reputation, and the 2005 is perhaps the best ever made there. Parker: 90 "Shrewd Bordeaux buyers have long followed this excellent Médoc estate, whose wine can easily be confused with a St.-Julien or Pauillac. The 2005 is an undeniable sleeper of the vintage. Dark plum/purple with a beautiful nose of new saddle leather, spice box, black currants, and a hint of unsmoked cigar tobacco, it offers medium body, admirable richness, decent acidity, and ripe tannin. Although drinkable now, Lanessan has an excellent track record of evolving for two decades or more."
Château les Grands Chenes, Cru Bourgeois Superior du Médoc, 2005
($32.99) - Robert Parker:
91
“A major sleeper of the vintage, the
2005 Les Grands-Chenes reveals aromas of chocolate, cassis, smoke, herbs,
and meat, followed by a full-bodied, well-endowed, impressively
constituted wine with sweet tannin as well as loads of character and
personality. Enjoy it from 2008 to 2020... This superb 25-acre Medoc
estate (owned by Bordeaux visionary Bernard Magrez) produces a blend of
60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that is much better than its
pedigree would suggest.” Chateau Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux, 2005 ($64.99) - Robert Parker: 92 “Significantly better from bottle than it was from barrel, the 2005 Rauzan-Gassies appears to be the finest wine this estate has ever produced. Dense purple-hued with a beautiful perfume of camphor, creme de cassis, licorice, bay leaf, and incense, it is a full-bodied, stunningly concentrated, broad, rich Margaux with lovely integrated tannins. This backward 2005 will handsomely repay cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030+.”
Chateau Beychevelle, St. Julien, 2005 ($75)
- Parker:
90
This
is a strong effort from a property that too often does not live up to its
pedigree. A deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by a sweet perfume of
roasted herbs, black cherries, and even blacker fruits. The wine is medium
to full-bodied with sweet tannin, good acidity, and a fruitcake-like
spiciness and earthiness. Pure and long with a tannic clout that is
neither intrusive nor excessive, this elegant, powerful effort should be
at its finest between 2017-2030. Wine
Spectator:
89 "Has
pretty blackberry, licorice and spices on the nose. Full-bodied, with
medium tannins and a minerally, fruity, almost spicy finish. Balanced and
refined. Best after 2012."
Chateau Giscours, Margaux, 2005 ($90) - Parker: 91 This forward-styled 2005 possesses a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a big, sweet bouquet of roasted herbs, fudge, espresso, figs, and cherry jam. Opulent, even decadent, with low acidity, but high glycerin and fruit extract as well as a flamboyant fleshiness, this is a stunningly impressive, hedonistic, savory Margaux to enjoy between 2010-2025. Wine Spectator: 93 "Displays blackberry, cherry and hints of sweet tobacco. Full-bodied, with soft, velvety tannins and a long, caressing finish. Very pretty and solid. This is structured and chewy. Needs time. Best after 2013." Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, 2005 ($150) - Parker: 92 "The 2005 Forts de Latour (10,000 cases produced) possesses much of the same character as Latour, but sweeter tannins, more obvious and forward fruit, medium to full body, and a more seductive, plusher style, but not the great stature, richness, and architectural precision of its bigger brother. Nevertheless, it is a gorgeous Pauillac that should drink well for two decades or more. Latour is always the most difficult Medoc first-growth to find, largely because the vineyard and production are much smaller than its’ peers and because of the severe selection routinely done by owner Francois Pinault and administrator Frederic Engerer."
2004
Chateau La Tour Figeac, St.-Emilion, 2004 ($37.99) - Christine Derenoncourt, the wife of one of Bordeaux’s leading winemaking gurus, Stephane Derenoncourt, made this blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Franc from a bio-dynamically farmed vineyard, and produced from yields of [only] 22.5 hectoliters per hectare. Wine Spectator: 88 "This is not a profound wine, but it is very pleasant and ready to drink now." Fleur Cardinale, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, 2004 ($39.99) - Robert Parker: 91 “TProprietor Dominique Decoster (of Havilland porcelain fame) has fashioned an outstanding 2004 (a 5,800-case blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon). Made with the assistance of notable winemaking consultants Jean-Philippe Fort, from Michel Rolland’s laboratory, and St.-Emilion’s bad boy, Jean-Luc Thunevin, it is a powerful (14.5% natural alcohol) sleeper of the vintage. A dark ruby/purple hue is followed by aromas of crushed red and black fruits interwoven with notes of flowers, cedar, new oak, and licorice. Possessing supple tannin, an opulent, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and beautiful purity, texture, and length, it can be drunk now and over the next 15 years. An estate on a roll! Drink: 2007-2022.”Lucia, St.- Emilion Grand Cru, 2004 ($4 9.99) - Parker 91 “A garage wine made under the auspices of consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, the flashy, flamboyant 2004 Lucia reveals seductive floral, cassis, and cherry-like flavors. It boasts an opulent personality, low acidity (atypical for a 2004), medium to full body, and abundant fruit and ripeness. Consume it during its first decade of life.”Chateau Pontet Canet, 2004 ($69.99) - Parker: 90 "Backward and powerful for the vintage, this blue/purple-colored 2004 exhibits classic creme de cassis, smoke, incense, and spring flower characteristics. Medium to full-bodied, dense, and excruciatingly tannic, this impressively endowed Pauillac is built for the long haul. However, patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025+."Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2004 ($ 99.99) - Robert Parker 90-92: “A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, the 2004 Pichon Lalande is vaguely reminiscent of the 1986 and 1988. Deep ruby/purple-tinged, with moderately high, firm tannin, a degree of austerity, plummy black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, smoke, and dried herbs, good freshness, and medium body, give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 15+ years.”Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron, 200 4 ($99.95) - Parker: 93 “An undeniable star of the vintage, Pichon-Baron’s 2004 boasts an inky/ruby/purple color to the rim as well as a big, sweet nose of melted licorice, chocolate, black currant jam, truffles, and charcoal embers. Soft tannin, full body, and abundant opulence and flesh are atypical for the vintage character, but this wine is loaded. Pure, ripe, and evolved, it should be at its finest between 2009-2022.”2003 Chateau Petit Bocq, St.-Estephe, 2003 ($29.99) – Parker: 89 “A sleeper of the vintage, this impeccably well run St.-Estephe has produced a dark ruby/purple-colored 2003 with a sweet nose of cassis and blackberries intertwined with hints of licorice and earth. Medium-bodied, concentrated, and plump, it is a tasty effort to drink during its first decade of life.”
Chateau Potensac, 2003
($28.99)- La Cour d’Argent and Potensac are
perfect examples of the silliness of rating scores. They received marginally the
same score from Robert Parker and the Wine
Spectator, yet the Potensac is a much more serious and far superior wine. Go
figure! Parker:
89
“The dark
plum/purple 2003 Potensac is a sleeper of the vintage. Sweet, exotic scents of
mincemeat, black currants, cherries, and crushed rocks are followed by an
elegant, fleshy, forward, delicious claret to enjoy over the next 5-7 years,
although this wine has a tendency to last longer. It is one of the finest
Potensacs produced in several years. Drink 2006-13” Wine Spectator:
88
“Very pretty blackberry and currant aromas follow through to a full-bodied
palate, with fine tannins and a silky finish. Nicely done. Best after 2009.” Chateau Lilian Ladouys, 2003 ($34.99) - Wine Spectator: 90 “Very, very pure with plum, currant and light spices. Full-bodied, with racy, refined tannins and a long, caressing finish. Pretty and firm. Best after 2010.”Chateau Fombrauge, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, 2003 ($39.99) - A beautiful wine and a fine value, this luscious Bordeaux shows high quality new oak and ripe fruit. Serve it slightly cool to keep the alcohol from showing through. Robert Parker: 90-92 “One of the stars as well as sleepers of the vintage of St.-Emilion, this wonderfully opulent, deep ruby/purple-colored 2003 boasts a sweet nose of smoke, creme de cassis, plums, figs, and licorice. Voluptuously textured, dense, and pure, this hedonistic beauty will be drinkable early in life because of low acidity, an elevated pH, and lofty levels of glycerin as well as alcohol. Drink now-2014.”Chateau Faugères, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, 2003 ($39.99) - Robert Parker: 91-93 “This is an atypically powerful, blockbuster Faugères. The proprietor, Madame Guisez, has hit the bull’s eye with this opaque, purple-hued 2003. Boasting flamboyant notes of blackberries, chocolate, espresso, sweet cherries, and toast, it is an opulent, full-bodied, powerful, rich yet well-proportioned effort with decent acidity, loads of glycerin, and a heady, full-throttle finish. This mouth filling claret will benefit from 1-3 years of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.” Note that Corinne Guisez sold this property in May, so this is the last vintage that she had a big hand in making. It remains to be seen how the new owners fare. Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Leognon, 2003 ($79.99) - Wine Spectator: 93 "Loads of blackberry and licorice with hints of meat and smoked oak. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and lots of very ripe and exotic fruit. Very exotic and wild. Rich finish. Best after 2009. 8,330 cases made." Robert Parker: 92 "The opulent, accessible 2003 offers a dense plum/ruby-tinged color and a big, sweet bouquet of crème de cassis, smoked herbs, lead pencil, and subtle wood. It is a deep, fleshy, medium to full-bodied offering with low acidity, a plump, opulent texture, and a heady finish. Enjoy this beauty over the next 15+ years." 2002 Chateau Leoville Barton, 2002 ($69.99) - Parker: 92 “Even better from bottle than from cask, and one of the finest wines of the vintage, this dense purple-colored 2002 reveals wonderfully sweet notes of charcoal, fresh mushrooms, smoke, earth, leather, cassis, and cedar. Full-bodied, highly extracted, broodingly backward, dense, and deep, this impressively endowed offering is built for the long term. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028. One of the classic wines of Bordeaux and still realistically priced, Leoville-Barton is becoming increasingly popular because of the extraordinary quality/price ratio it offers." Château Lafite Rothschild, 2002 ($450) - Spectator 95, Parker: 94 “A brilliant offering and a candidate for wine of the vintage, this is classic Lafite. This is a medium-weight, quintessentially elegant style of Lafite with notes of lead pencil shavings/graphite along with black currants, plums, and crushed rocks/mineral. Wonderfully pure, dense, with a deep color and loads of fruit, definition, and a long finish, this is a brilliant, elegant Lafite Rothschild that builds in the mouth and has more power and density than it initially seems. Drink: 2008-2025.” 2001 Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, 2001 ($49.99) - Parker: 91 “Excellent depth, relatively large structure, impressive weight and richness. Yet it has elegance and purity. Looks to be potentially outstanding with good aging potential. 2008-2018.” Wine Spectator: 92 "Rich, dense nose of blackberry, coffee & smoke. Full-bodied, soft, round tannins and a long, smoky finish. Very fresh and velvety. Best after 2008." 2000 Château La Tour Carnet (Douves), Haut Médoc, 2000 ($32.99) - Along with Beychevelle, Duhart-Milon, Lafon-Rochet, Prieure-Lichine, and Talbot, this beautiful property was originally classified as a prestigious fourth growth in 1855! Over the years, it has rarely lived up to that reputation, but great strides have been made under new ownership since the late 1990s. The property is densely planted (8,000 vines/ha) with 53% Cab Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Robert Parker: 89 “An up-and-coming Médoc property run by Bernard Magrez, LTC has come on strong of late and is finally living up to its reputation. The dense 2000 boasts a sweet nose of graphite intermixed with cassis, licorice, and toasty espresso notes. Floral notes emerge in the glass. Heady, ripe, and medium to full-bodied, it is the finest Latour Carnet in many decades. Drink 2007-16” Wine Spectator: 90 “Silky and pleasing, with berry, mineral, and blackberry character. Medium body. Fine finish. Very elegant. Best after 2008.”Château Begadan, Médoc, 2000 ($18.99) - Even more serious than the Malromé, this wine is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 12 months in high quality barrels (50% new), it shows some toasty barrel characteristics and terrific fruit on the nose and on the palate. Enjoyable now, it will continue to age for two or three more years. Quite attractive! Château D'Armailhac, 2000 ($69.99) - Parker 91 "This continues to be one of the most seductive and luscious d'Armailhacs I have ever tasted. It may be my favorite vintage of d'Armailhac. Opaque purple-colored, this blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot has surprisingly good acidity with the high Merlot content and high tannin, but an expressive, opulent mid-texture and loads of charcoal-infused, cedary, black currant fruit intermixed with spice box, dried herbs, and espresso notes. The wine is full-bodied, sweet, and expansive. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020."
Château
Pontet-Canet 2000 ($99.99) - Lying adjacent to
Mouton-Rothschild, this Pauillac has improved dramatically in recent years.
Parker: 92+
“Impressively saturated
color. Promising aromas of black currants, vanilla, truffle, smoke, and mineral.
It is full-bodied, powerful, layered, and enticingly textured, but backward and
firm. The finish is long, but this broodingly backward, large-scaled
Pontet-Canet will require considerable patience. Drink 2011-2030.” 1999 Chateau Moulin du Cadet, St. Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 1999 ($34.99) - This is quite a serious St. Emilion! Situated on a hillside next to Chateau Fonroque, this estate was recently purchased from the Moulierac family. The Chateau and wine making facility have been completely restored. This wine is noted for its intensity, rich body, great breeding and aging potential. It is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1996 is of very high quality and is certainly approachable now. Domaine de Chevalier, 1999 ($44.99) - Purchased at an auction, this was previously $60. Parker 88 “This is a classic, finesse-styled Graves. The 1999 Domaine de Chevalier reveals scorched earth, tobacco, and red currant aromas along with rich, elegant, savory flavors, sweet tannin, and better integrated oak than previous vintages have exhibited. Enjoy this medium-bodied effort now-2010.”Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac, 1999 ($99.99) - Parker 89+: “Putting on weight as it evolves in cask. Deep ruby color. Sexy nose of caramel, tobacco, sweet black currants, and spice. A silky-textured, seductive effort that may merit an outstanding rating if it develops more length and mid-palate. 2002-18”1998 Chateau Chasse-Spleen, 1998 ($34.99) - Chasse-Spleen has been a solid producer from the commune of Moulis in the Haut Médoc. An early review of the 1998 vintage from the Wine Spectator rated it 85-89: “A pretty, balanced wine with blackberry, mineral and toasted oak character. Medium to full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a chocolate aftertaste. Almost outstanding.” Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, 1998 ($ 69.99) - Pavillon Rouge is Chateau Margaux’s second label and has always been one of the more successful second labels wines. Although it is expensive, it generally delivers great style and grace. The 1998 is no exception. It is still youthful and will continue to evolve, but it is beginning to show some of the smoothness and silkiness that are its hallmark. Parker reviewed it 4 years ago: 88+ “More structured (than the 1997), with intense black fruits as well as firmness and more noticeable tannin.” Decant this for an hour.Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.  Jean-Marc Boillot Pommard "les Jarollieres," 2004 ($9.99/375ml) - Previously $32! Produced from 70-year old vines, this serious Burgundy is deeply colored with layers of concentrated red and black fruits. Although still showing some tannin, it is aging nicely and is better than the Spectator score indicates. Boillot's parcel is planted north/south while almost all others in the Côte are east/west. Wine Spectator: 88 "There's substance to this, from the meaty, black cherry aromas to the plum and licorice flavors. A mineral element also enters the mix. It's driven by a racy structure that keeps this long and alive. Drink now through 2014." Jardin de Charlotte Bourgogne Rouge, 2005 ($18.69) - Becky Wasserman has spent 25 years traveling through Burgundy and Champagne selecting a fine portfolio of top producers to represent. Now working with her son, Peter, Becky has realized her long desire to make a delicious, everyday, quaffable Pinot Noir. The highly acclaimed 2005 vintage allowed Becky and Peter to use their contacts to source grapes for this project. Jardin de Charlotte, named for two of their favorite little girls (both named Charlotte), saw no new oak. This is a medium style of Pinot Noir that has developed very nicely in the bottle; It is true and of very good quality for the price. Limited quantity. Check out Becky’s web page at www.leserbet.com. Roger Belland Pinot Noir, 2005 ($27.99) - This unusually named red Burgundy is a dramatic case of microproduction. A NY/NJ importer/distributor contracted for the production from the two top rows of Belland’s organically-grown Santenay Premier Cru vineyards! Belland dropped fruit twice, discarding grapes during the growing season so that the vines could apply their energy to ripening the remaining grapes. The yield of only 68 cases represented a low 35 hectoliters/hectare. New barrels were used for 25% of the juice; the remainder fermented and aged in stainless steel. This young Burgundy from the great 2005 vintage is starting to drink well now, but it will benefit from another year in the bottle.
Chassagne-Montrachet
Rouge, Louis Latour, 2005 ($29.99) - Burgundy values are few and far between, but because most
people associate the village of Chassagne-Montrachet with its fabulous white
wines, the reds of Chassagne are oft Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Heritiers “Coucheroux,” 2002 ($39.99) - The 2002 Burgundies have gotten very good press. Parker 88-89 “Medium to full-bodied, deep and rich, the 2002 Beaune Clos des Coucheroux exhibits dark, stony, black cherry, strawberry, talcum powder, and perfume aromas. Thick, ample, and concentrated, it releases sweet waves of earth-tinged dark fruits on the taster’s palate. Its finish is firm, with copious quantities of tannin that will necessitate some patience. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2013.” 2002 Red Burgundies from Domaine di Meix Foulot - The
wines of Mercurey, which lies just south of the prime real estate in
Burgundy, may lack the elegance, breeding, and complexity of their northern
brethren, but the best of Mercurey can be very fine indeed, especially in
top vintages such as 2002. Paul de Launay of Domaine di Meix Foulot has
passed the torch to his daughter Agnes. These wines have always been
special, but she has softened some of the rustic edges and made them more
rounded and graceful. These are stunning wines and good values. Volnay 1er Cru “Blondeau-Hospice de Beaune,” Labouré-Roi, 2002 ($49.99) - The Hospice de Beaune, a famous charity hospital in Burgundy, owns parcels of prime vineyards and gets donations from other parcels each year. Wines with their label are some of the best that Burgundy has to offer. This rich yet silky wine has amazing depth, elegance, and finesse. Domaine Francois Gaunoux Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes," 2005 ($59.99), Beaune 1er Cru "Clos des Mouches," 2005 ($64.99), and Pommard 1er Cru "Les Grands Epenots," 2005 ($69.99) - It's always a pleasure to see a producer hold back wines for an extra year before release. Itfs also a pleasure to see relatively reasonable prices for such distinguished Burgundy vineyards from such a fine Burgundy vintage. "Clos des Chenes" is a top 'climat' in Volnay and offers a combination of strength and elegance with complexity and balance. The Beaune is from a fabled 'cru' in the southern part of this appellation tucked in a hillside bordering on Pommard. Showing both a feminine side and a serious streak, this is a fine example of the appellation at a great price. The Pommard shows a combination of strength and finesse. This complete wine is the quintessential "iron fist in a velvet glove." All are limited. Due in the first week of May. Louis Latour Château Corton-Grancey Grand Cru, 2005 ($110) - Produced only in the best Burgundy vintages, this is a blend of Pinot Noir grapes from five Grand Cru vineyards with an average vine age over 40 years. After traditional open-vat fermentation and 10 to 12 months of barrel aging, each cask is tasted, and only the finest ones, showing the best color, bouquet, and capacity to age, are blended to make Château Corton-Grancey. The 2005 offers a rich bouquet of mineral notes (chalk, earth), spices, and ripe fruit (black cherry). The wine is well-balanced, supple, and round on the palate. The finish is long and firm, which is typical of a great Corton. Although hard to resist now, this wine will be at its best between 2009 and 2013. Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page. Côtes du Rhône, Domaine Paul Autard, 2007 ($15.99) - Significantly more expensive than the basic Rhônes of large producers such as Jaboulet and Guigal, Autard more than justifies the price with the quality and purity of character that only come from small, hands-on, and meticulous production. Jean-Paul Autard carries on the tradition established by Paul Autard when he founded the domaine in the village of Courthezon in the 1970s. Fine wine begins in the vineyard, and Autard aims for perfect balance between soil and vine. No pesticides, chemical anti-rot products, or fertilizers are used. He is guided by the method known as lutte raisonnée which includes meticulous hand labor such as the removal of non-essential shoots and leaves that would reduce vine aeration and encourage rot and mildew. In addition to land in Châteauneuf, Autard has 14 hectares in Côtes-du-Rhône on the Châteauneuf border. Other quality factors are the vine age (40-94 years) and the various parcels of the domaine allows for planting varietals that are perfectly adapted to each soil type. This wine is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre. The limited use of only organic fertilizer and the near perfect, dry, and windy conditions of the 2007 vintage kept yields low and are reflected in its deep color and aromatics with plush, ripe, black fruits and spice notes. Handpicked grapes were transported to the winery in small boxes to prevent damage to the fruit. Maceration and fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks equipped with a pneumatic mechanism to carry out pigeage (punching down of the cap of solids) to ensure optimal and gentle extraction of color and flavor without any harsh elements. In addition, two pumping over operations (remontages) were carried out daily for 10 days to enhance the extraction and to oxygenate the wine to attain a plush texture. Each of the varieties was vinified and aged separately until blending and bottling. No wood was used.
Domaine Galevan Côtes du Rhône
"Paroles de Femme," 2007 ($15.99) - This is the perfect
replacement for the delicious 2007 Paul Autard CDR that sold out. Parker:
89-90
"The 2007 CDR Paroles de Femme (meaning "words of a
woman") is a sexy, deep, ripe, full-bodied blend of 60% Grenache, 20%
Mourvèdre, and the rest equal parts Cinsault and Carignan. Its deep
ruby/purple color is accompanied by abundant amounts of Provençal typicity as
well as roasted herb, meat juice, kirsch, and black raspberry fruit notes.
Enjoy it now - 2011. Proprietor Coralie Goumarre is another woman among many
in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation who seem to be pushing the envelope of
quality. Sensational! A sleeper of the vintage."
J. L. Chave Côtes du Rhône "Mon Coeur," 2007 ($19.99) and Crozes-Hermitage "Silène," 2007 ($26.99) - Chave's 2006 wines were excellent, but 2007 is being heralded as one of the best ever in the Rhône. These two wines are magnificent! Chave is perhaps the most famous name in the northern Rhône; his Hermitage ($200) is second to none. The family firm has been passed down from father to son since its establishment in 1481! The current owner, Jean Louis Chave, graduated from the University of California-Davis. In addition to his focus on the great wines of Hermitage and St. Joseph, Jean Louis began a separate negoçiant business that buys high quality grapes from other parts of the Rhône. "Mon Coeur" comes from four organically grown, low-yield vineyards. It is a blend of 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and 5% old vine Carignan. most from the villages of Rasteau and Cairanne. A lush wine with gorgeous Rhône flavors, it was aged in large wood casks for 12 months. It is attractive to drink now, but it also has staying power. Parker 89-90: "Sensational, offering superb purity, texture, and richness. It should drink well for 5-7 years." Wine Spectator 90: "This has character, showing a dark, burly edge to the bittersweet cocoa and mulled blackberry fruit, with a coffee-tinged finish. Hints of garrigue and mineral flitter through." The Crozes Hermitage is made from 100% Syrah grapes from the Chave estate's young vines blended with some hillside plantings from neighbors. Chave finished the wine in his barrels at his cuverie. This intensely colored and flavored wine is a stunning value. Wine Spectator 90: "Very bright and fresh, with a lively floral note leading the way for damson plum, red cherry, and red currant fruit, backed by an elegant, iron-tinged finish." Despite identical scores, the Crozes really is a step up in depth and complexity. Domaine La Boussiere Vacqueyras, 2007 ($28.99) - There has been great interest in the 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Papes, but the prices are high (see below). Basic Côtes du Rhônes only get you so far. Gigondas and Vacqueyras are the best villages in the southern Rhône for great wine and great value. Their quality often rivals that of CdP. This one is gorgeous. Tanzer: 91-93 "Highly spicy aromas of fresh red berries, white pepper, cinnamon, and lavender. Lush raspberry and cherry flavors are enlivened by tangy minerals. Turns sweeter on the finish, which strongly repeats the floral note. This wine's abundant fruit will give it great early appeal... [Brothers Gilles and Thierry Faravels are] among the most consistent producers in the Southern Rhone." The vines are located high on the slopes of the gorgeous Dentelles de Montmirail, where the heat is ameliorated by altitude and wind. Careful, non-interventionist winemaking (minimal sulfuring, gravity-bottling, minimal racking) yields wines of concentration and depth. Tardieu-Laurent Gigondas “Les Grandes Bastides,” 2001 ($27.99) - T-L is Rhône negoçiant whose delicious, modern-styled wines are controversial with purists. This unfiltered wine is 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. It was aged in Alliers barrique (part new) for two years. Traditionalists find the level of wood excessive. My notes: Very deep color. Nose shows new oak, but plenty of fruit. Delicious. Very ripe, nice balance. Accessible, but good underlying structure. Parker: 89 “Minerality (crushed stones), blackberry and other assorted red and black fruits are found in the 2001 Gigondas. Firm, with high tannin, and a medium-bodied, fresh, vigorous, long, concentrated finish, it will drink well for 7-12 years. $35” Bouissiere Gigondas, 2004 ($28.99) - Red wines from France’s Rhône district are some of the best values out there! Châteauneuf du Pape gets all the publicity, but the wines of nearby Gigondas are equally good, and they are often better values. Bouissiere is a top Gigondas producer, and this is a remarkable wine. Stephen Tanzer: 91-93 “Saturated deep red. Smoky and lush nose with red berries, cherry, rose, garrigue, and roasted coffee. Excellent energy and precise red berry flavors. Finishes floral, juicy, and long with little sign of its 16% alcohol.” Bouissiere’s monumental “Font du Tonin” (barrique-aged, old vines) should arrive next month. Coudoulet de Beaucastel, 2005 ($29.99) - Year after year, this is my favorite Côte du Rhône. Parker: 91 “Another outstanding example of this Côtes du Rhône made essentially across the border from Châteauneuf du Pape. Notes of tapenade, licorice, smoked herbs, and meat juices interwoven with black cherry and darker fruits are followed by an expansive, broadly flavored, full-bodied wine with no hard edges, gorgeous fruit purity, and a long, spicy, heady finish. This is almost the bottled essence of Provence. Drink it over the next decade or more.”
Chateau Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhône, 2004
($29.99) - Parker 90:
“An outstanding effort and a blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah,
and 20% Counoise). As I wrote last year, 2004 is a terrific vintage for the
Perrin family estate wines, and this is a beauty with a gorgeous nose of
raspberries, dried herbs, pepper, black cherry, other sweet fruits, and a hint
of truffle. It has moderately intense tannins, will probably be better with
another 1-2 years of bottle age, and should keep for an uncommonly long time for
a Cotes du Rhône, 15 or more years (2008-22).” Domaine Jérome Quiot Chateauneuf du Pape, 2005 ($32.99) - Members of the Quiot family have been winemakers since 1748 when Antoine Quiot acquired a few hectares of vines in Chateauneuf. In the ensuing years other properties (Domaine Houchart near Aix en Provence, Domaine Duclaux in Chateaneuf-du-Pape, and Château du Trignon with vines in Vacqueyras and Beaumes de Venise) were added to the fold. Today the Domaine du Vieux Lazaret comprises more than 100 hectares with some of the land located in the Côtes du Ventoux region. The 13th generation of the family currently works the estate. This is a delicious Rhône wine with the depth of fruit and complexity from varietal blending that are typical of a good Chateauneuf. It can be enjoyed now, although it will continue to evolve over the next 3-5 years. Domaine la Roquète Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2005 ($36.99) - Henri Brunier, owner of the famous Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, purchased this property in 1986 and turned it over to his sons, Daniel and Frederic. New cellars were constructed in 1998, and quality is clearly on the upswing. Because the vines are on several separate parcels, Roquète cannot use bottles with the traditional raised crossed keys. The vines, 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre average 45 years of age. Traditional techniques are used and the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered. Wine Spectator: 93 and Top 100 of 2008! "Highly Recommended! Layers of exotic fig, boysenberry, and loganberry fruit ripple across the lush, dense structure, while hints of red licorice, linzer torte, mesquite, and plum sauce glide through the well-rounded finish. Drink now through 2025." The Wine Doctor wrote, "The contrast with the 2004 vintage is fascinating. Here we have a wine showing more depth, with an animalistic, savage edge to the nose. The palate has a nice weight and is well composed, rather fuller and fatter than the wine from the preceding year, but there is a good seam of acidity underneath the wild cherry fruit to balance it out. There is a good grip, and it has very fine potential. 17-17.5+/20"
Perrin Chateauneuf du Papes
“Les Sinards,”
2005
($39.99) - The Perrin brothers, Jean-Pierre
and François, are best known for their famous Chateau
de Beaucastel, but they have been building a small wine empire that includes
other properties in the Rhone, a small estate in California (Tablas Creek),
and a negoçiant house (La Vieille Ferme) that makes wines from the Rhone, Côtes
du Lubéron and Côtes du Ventoux. They also make this cuvée which is
declassified Beaucastel blended with grapes from their Olivet estate in the
Les Sinards district, and some purchased grapes. The blend here is 50%
Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, and 10% Mourvedre. With solid fruit and
structure, it is nearly ready to drink, and, at half the price of Beaucastel,
it is a terrific value.
Parker:
91
"The 2005 Perrin et Fils Chateauneuf du Pape Les Sinards exhibits greater
ripeness than the 2006 but a longer and more complete mouthfeel, with medium
to full body, and terrific concentration and richness for what is essentially
a declassified, young vine Beaucastel cuvee blended with another parcel. This
wine should drink well young but last for 15 or more years. Drink 2007-2011."
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Galet du Papes “Vielles Vignes,” 1999 ($27.99) -
Jean-Luc Mayard is a proud, dedicated, and determined traditionalist who makes
classic, old-style CDPs. With an average vine age of 50 years, his wines are
intense, deep, and powerful expressions of a disappearing style. The gnarled
Vieilles Vignes parcel is over 100 years old and consists of 60% Grenache, 30%
Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. This is a concentrated, intense, and complex wine and
one of the appellation’s great achievements. It’s a steal at the price! Domaine la Bouissiere Gigondas “La Font de Tonin,” 2004 ($36.99) - The Rhône Valley continues to offer great values. Where else can you find a world class wine for less than $40? Gigondas lies northeast of Ch‚teauneuf du Pape and adjacent to Vacqueyras. In the southern Rhône, its quality is considered by many to be second only to Chateauneuf. The most commonly used grapes are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Tanzer 95: “Massive in texture and weight, with sweet, dense, berry flavors building and expanding. Finishes with remarkable sweetness [ripeness, not sugar] as well as admirable definition to the outsized flavors. The tannins are completely absorbed by the sheer volume of fruit here.” Serve with game, beef stroganoff, or spare ribs. Cheese recommendations include St. Marcellin, Roquefort, and Epoisses.Domaine La Barroche Chateauneuf du Pape, 2004 ($39.99) - This is just the second release from this exciting new estate. Fresh from enology school, proprietor and winemaker Julien Barrot convinced his father to stop selling grapes and to establish their own domaine, which has 12.5 hectares and produces only red wine. The average vine age is 60 years old, but 1/3 of the vines are 100 year-old Grenache, and one parcel overlooks the vines of Chateau Rayas, the most expensive wine in all of Chateauneuf du Pape. The Barroche vineyards have been farmed organically for a generation. Stephen Tanzer 93: “Intense raspberry, strawberry, and exotic blood orange aromas complicated by garrigue and anise. Supple, sweet, and elegant, showing excellent depth and a broad range of red fruit tones. Silky, intensely fruity, and long.” Raymond Usseglio Châteauneuf du Pape "Cuvée Girard," 2007 ($47.50) - Châteauneufs from the great 2007 vintage are beginning to arrive. Francis Usseglio left Italy in 1931 to become a vineyard worker in France. After years of hard work he obtained eight hectares of vines as a sharecropper and began to produce his own wine in 1949. He purchased land in 1962 and his son, Raymond, planted vines. Subsequent purchases increased the domain to 21 hectares. Decanter Magazine: "The arrival of son Stéphane at the helm in 2000 and investment in the cellars have brought positive change at Raymond Usseglio. Stéphane’s fine tuning has given great expression to the fruit and added concentration and finesse." Wine Spectator: 92 "Shows the ripeness of the vintage, with an almost heady core of raspberry, boysenberry, and blackberry fruit. But then racy acidity, a snappy licorice edge, and sweet tobacco and spice notes stretch out the grip-filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2020. "Robert Parker: "Raymond Usseglio is a serious producer fashioning traditionally made Châteauneuf du Papes that stand the test of time... The unfiltered cuvée called "Girard" is a blend of 80% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, and the rest Counoise and Cinsault. It is muscular and full-bodied, with a tremendously powerful aromatic profile of melted licorice, incense, fig, black cherries, black currant, pepper, and spice. This staunch traditionalist, who ages everything in old barrels for 16 to 18 months, has turned out absolutely sensational 2007s." Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes, 2000 ($47.99) - Both Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator have called Voge’s wonderful Rhones some of the “finest wines in the world.” Wine Spectator 91: “Classy, Refined and subtle, with blueberry, blackberry, and black currant flavors. Lively, succulent, medium-bodied Syrah with a long and juicy finish.” Châteauneuf du Pape “Bargeton,” Patrick Lesec, 2003 ($48.99) - Parker: 94! “This blockbuster was aged 80% in wood and 20% in tank. A blend of 78% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and a dollop of Cinsault, it offers up huge aromas of garrigue, ground pepper, kirsch, and roasted meats. Dark plum/purple-colored, heady, alcoholic, full-bodied, and enormously proportioned, this 2003 is meant for true hedonists.” This wine needs a few more years of aging.
Alain Jaume Domaine Grand
Veneur Châteauneuf du Pape “Les Origines,” 2003
($54.99) - Wine Spectator 94:
“Jaw-dropping raspberry ganache, plum fruit, cocoa, tar, hoisin sauce, and
mineral notes are flamboyantly displayed, while an intense tarry, minerally
drive extends the finish. Best from 2007-2025” Robert Parker:
95
“Dazzling stuff and one of the vintage’s top efforts. Deep purple to the rim
with a gorgeous nose of blackberry liqueur intermixed with blueberries, smoke,
licorice, roasted meats, and herbs, the wine has fabulous concentration, a
multilayered mid-palate, and a blockbuster finish with sweet tannin and plenty
of opulence. Drink it from 2006-2018. For the last 7-8 years, this has been
one of the best-run estates in Châteauneuf du Pape. Alain Jaume and his two
capable sons, Sebastien and Christophe, continue to propel Domaine Grand Veneur
into the upper echelon of quality. They also offer an impressively well-made
negoçiant line of wines (under the name Alain Jaume). The hallmarks of the
Grand Veneur wines include their extraordinary purity of flavor and impeccable
balance. Moreover, they have kept prices remarkably fair.” Chateauneuf du Pape, Charvin, 2007 ($75) - Parker: 97! "The finest wine ever made at Charvin. The blend from the 45- to 50-year-old vines is 85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese, all aged in cement tanks prior to being bottled unfiltered. A terrific nose of kirsch, lavender, licorice, forest floor, and spice box soars from the glass of this full-bodied effort. With fabulous density, a multidimensional mouthfeel, and a 45+-second finish this brilliant, elegant, feminine-styled wine is loaded with concentration and intensity. Like many 2007 Chateauneuf du Papes, the extraordinary fruit level makes it hard to resist. However, it will be even better in 3-5 years, and should last for 15-20." Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas “La Louvee,” 2005 ($74.99) - This young Rhone will benefit from some aging, but it is an exceptionally good, layered wine.” Wine Spectator: 94 “This is packed, with dark fig and raspberry ganache notes all richly layered with bittersweet cocoa, aged tobacco, loam, and iron. The long, muscular finish will need time to stretch out. Best from 2008 through 2017. 350 cases made.” Chave Hermitage, 2006 ($199.95 net) - We've previously written up J.L. Chave's negoçiant Côte du Rhône and Crozes-Hermitage, but this is the real deal from one of the great Rhône producers. Parker: 95-98 "This should turn out to be a great, great vintage for their red Hermitage as it reveals the classic cassis, crushed rock, and pepper characteristics along with enormous power, unctuosity, and richness. Licorice and black olive notes are also apparent. This is a dead-ringer for the 1991 Chave Hermitage, which is drinking spectacularly well today. A bastion of traditionalism and terroir-sensitive winemaking, the Chaves, both father Gerard and son Jean-Louis, continue to establish higher and higher standards for artisanal, high quality winemaking without manipulation or compromise. The Chave address remains one of the most extraordinary places of learning in the wine world. Most importantly, they have had a remarkable succession of successful vintages that began in 1994." Very limited.
Additional
older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies
But Goodies page. Puech Cocut Merlot, Vin de Pays D'Oc, 2006/2007 ($9.35/750ml, $16.99/1.5L) - Although not from a prestigious part of France, this is a very solid every-day red wine. It is one of our best sellers. Domaine Sainte Eugénie, Languedoc-Roussillon, 2006 ($12.99) and Domaine Grange des Rouquette, Costières de Nîmes, 2006 ($12.99) - These wines are imported by Robert Kacher who scours the French countryside looking for good values from off-the-beaten-path regions. The Sainte Eugénie is a blend of 60% Carignan, 20% Grenache, and 20% Syrah from the foothills of the Pyrénées along the Mediterranean coast. The Carignan vines are over 65 years old. About 40% of the wine is aged in small cask for up to one year. The result is a marvelously complex and clean wine that rivals anything produced in the appellation. The red fruits burst from the glass with mild hints of toast and spice that continue through the impeccably balanced finish. The Grange des Rouquette, made by Thierry & Véronique Boudinaud, comes from the right bank of the Rhône River just outside of the Côtes du Rhône proper. It is a blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre. The three varietals were harvested separately, allowing each to attain maximum ripeness. Most of the wine was fermented in tank with a small amount of the old-vine Syrah vinified in barrel. The beautiful, sweet red fruit in the nose is round and soft on the palate. Thierry traveled extensively in his quest for knowledge about winemaking while working in California, New Zealand, and Bordeaux.
Domaine
Santa Duc "Les Plans," 2005 (14.99) - Yves
Gras of Domaine Santa Duc is a legendary producer of Gigondas, and has
bottled for us this wonderful little cuvée from the Vaucluse. Only 500
cases are ever made. The vineyards are located in areas just outside the
famous appellations of Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The wine is made from
50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The
grapes are fermented full cluster to add structure and complexity and
aged completely in stainless steel tanks to retain the fruit.
Clos la Coutale Cahors, 2007 ($14.99) - If you’re impressed by Argentine Malbecs, you may be interested in trying the varietal from its French origin. Cahors lies southeast of Bordeaux and is known for its deeply colored, rich red wines. This classic example, blended with 20% Merlot, shows intense and ripe fruit. Wine Spectator: 90 "There’s a sense of elegance to the well-defined, concentrated flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, and plum followed by notes of sage, dark chocolate, and tobacco leaf on the long, powerful finish. Drink now." Parker: 88 "Philippe Bernede’s 2007 Cahors continues a long-running streak of excellence. Smelling of ripe mulberries, cassis, cardamom, carob, and black walnut husks, it offers a juicy and expansive palate. Peppery pungency, sirloin juices, and faintly tart black fruits dominate a long finish. Paired with grilled meats, where freshness and its lack of weightiness will prove welcome. this will serve admirably for 3-4 years and might even pick up some richness and complexity." Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence, 2007 ($15.99) - Luc and Lucienne Cartier have been farming and making wine organically for decades. Their gorgeous, countryside property yields powerful expressions of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and more – not to mention olives (their oil is one of France’s finest) and incredible fruit and vegetables. Luc and Lucienne’s wines combine the richness and intensity of top Rhône or Bordeaux with a crystal-clear and unmistakable expression of Provençal soil. They use a distinctive, rustic, squat bottle for this great value. Parker: 89 "The 2007 Les Baux de Provence constitutes nearly 30% each of Carignan and Grenache, with slightly smaller shares of Cabernet Sauvignon (less than in several recent vintages) and Syrah. Smelling delightfully of fresh plums, sandalwood, ginger, cinnamon, lavender, and a hint of game, it is expansive and with fine-grained underlying tannins. Juniper and cassis add a pleasantly bitter pungency to the finish, contributing along with saline and smoky notes to the invigoration of a long finish. This understated wine will not only offer highly versatile enjoyment over the next 3-4 years but should blossom further as well. The varietal makeup can vary dramatically each year according to the vicissitudes of nature and the insights of the blenders. Yet it is always a distinctly recognizable wine." Chateau Capion "1C Rouge," 2006 ($16.99) - Owned by the Buhrer family, this beautiful chateau is situated in the Gassac Valley of the Languedoc. The 45 hectares of vineyards are organically farmed without irrigation. The vineyard faces west-north-west which protects it somewhat from excessive sun and heat. A blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Merlot from 23-year old vines, this wine was fermented using native yeast and aged on the lees for 14 months in French oak barrels. With yields of only 35 hl/ ha, it has the fruit, complexity, and a balanced 13.5% alcohol to make it something special. It won several gold medals in Europe. "1Ch" is the least expensive of Capion's three red cuvées. Chateau de Figuieres “Cuvée Louis,” Coteaux de Languedoc, 2001 ($19.99) - Wow! Hold on to your wine glass. This is a big, bold, powerful wine from southern France. Bigger isn’t always better, but this big boy has the balance to pull it off. It has some Port-like flavor characteristics due to the super-ripeness of the grapes, but this is a serious wine that needs serious food or cheese. Domaine Clavel Copa Santa 2000 ($23.99) - Wow! Showing some maturity, this delicious Languedoc wine is quite a value. Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge “La Damoiselle,” 2003 ($94.99) - So there’s this guy who keeps hitting his head against the wall. Why? “Because it feels so good when I stop.” We hit our heads against a wall when we buy a wine that we know will be difficult to sell either because it is unusual, expensive, or both. But it is so good that we accept the challenge. This is a very expensive red wine from a region known for its whites. Add the fact that it is 100% Pinot Noir, a varietal associated only with Burgundy in France. Made from 60-year old vines, this deeply colored wine is rich, concentrated, and very serious. It is not overpriced!
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