1988
Chateau Calon Segur, St.-Estephe, 1988 ($159.99) - This wine and I have a history. Back in 1991, just after the 1988 Bordeaux were released, I attended a trade tasting of many of them. I was particularly impressed with the potential of the young Calon and bought some for the store (now long sold out). Shortly thereafter a friend, who is a noted dermatologist and fine wine collector, called me. He was putting on a private (blind) tasting of the 1988s, had obsessively tasted through a bunch of them, selected seven, and needed one more. Did I have any suggestions? I, of course, mentioned the Calon, which he then included in his event without tasting it himself. It turned out to be one of the hits of his tasting. Robert Parker 91: "The 1988 Calon-Segur outshines the more heralded 1989 and 1990. Deeply colored, superbly balanced, rich, and full bodied, it is a classic example of this chateau’s wine - cedary, very fragrant, with plenty of sweet red and black currant fruit. I should also note that it is surprisingly powerful for the vintage. It gets my nod as the finest Calon-Segur between 1982 and 1995. Now-2020."

Fleurie, Domaine des Nugues, 2007 ($19.99) - The cru villages of Beaujolais make delicious wines that get no respect because the public associates them with Beaujolais Nouveau. This wine shows just how good cru Beaujolais can be. It has surprisingly deep color, rich and delicious fruit, and enough structure to warrant additional aging, although it can surely be enjoyed now. International Wine Cellar (Josh Reynolds): 89 "Medium red. Ripe red berry and cherry aromas are complicated by notes of anise and cola. A richer style of Beaujolais, offering powerful dark fruit flavors and solid tannic structure. Gains freshness with air and leaves tangy berry skin notes behind on the persistent finish." Gérard Gelin bought and renamed this estate (it is pronounced newgg) in 1976. It is currently run by his son, Gilles. The vines average forty years of age; some are over 100 years old! All fruit is hand-harvested and whole-cluster vinified.

Bourgogne Passe-tout-grains, François Mikulski, 2008 ($19.99) - The vast majority of red Burgundies are 100% Pinot Noir, but that was not always the case. Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais, was widely planted in the Côte d'Or until it was banned by the AOC early in the 20th century. Some vines remain, but they cannot be used for the prestige names like Pommard and Volnay. In a nod to tradition, Passe-tout-grains was granted AOC status in 1937. These wines are typically 2/3 Pinot Noir and 1/3 Gamay which must be grown in the same vineyard and then fermented together. The idea is to make a fruitier, softer, and earlier drinking wine at a lower price. The best producers like Mikulski use the same warm fermentation that is used for the prestige Burgundies, as opposed to the carbonic maceration common in Beaujolais. This one, mostly from a vineyard in Pommard, is surprisingly serious and quite good. It will benefit from a few months in the bottle. Mikulski's father escaped Poland in 1939, settled in Dijon, and married a Boillot, so there were vineyards in the family. François was born in 1963. After viticulture studies and military service, he worked at California's Calera Wine Company before returning to France where with his wife, Marie-Pierre, he founded Domaine Mikulski in 1992. The domaine rents 8.5 hectares of vines and is best known for Meursault and very untraditional labels.

Roger Belland Pinot Noir, 2005 ($27.99) - This unusually named red Burgundy is a dramatic case of microproduction. A NY/NJ importer/distributor contracted for the production from the two top rows of Belland’s organically-grown Santenay Premier Cru vineyards! Belland dropped fruit twice, discarding grapes during the growing season so that the vines could apply their energy to ripening the remaining grapes. The yield of only 68 cases represented a low 35 hectoliters/hectare. New barrels were used for 25% of the juice; the remainder fermented and aged in stainless steel. This young Burgundy from the great 2005 vintage is starting to drink well now, but it will benefit from another year in the bottle.

Domaine Lignier-Michelot Bourgogne Rouge, 2008 ($28.99) - An amazing value and an excellent introduction to red Burgundies, this wine shows opulent, exotic fruit with bilberry, black currant, and spice notes. There is surprising complexity and a lingering aftertaste. Slightly tight, it is developing rapidly and should be at its best from late 2010 through 2013. Virgile Lignier is the fourth generation to run the property, but its entire production was sold to négoçiants until 1992. The family owns parcels in Morey St.-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, and Gevrey-Chambertin. Their entire production from 20 acres of vineyards is only 1000 cases per year! The vineyard for this Bourgogne Rouge is located just below Clos Vougeot! The wine was 100% destemmed and aged on its lees for 12 months in mostly used wood.

Camille Giroud Santenay, 2007 ($34.99) - Situated just below Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay is the southernmost village in the Côte d'Or, but its red wines are stylistically more like those of the northern Côte d'Nuit than the southern Côte d'Beaune. Earthy and gsauvageh (wild) when young, they age into spicy gems with delicious earth and cherry flavors. Founded in 1865, Camille Giroux was a family-owned winery and negoçiant house until it was purchased in 2002 by a group of Americans led by Ann Colgin (of Colgin Cellars!) and her husband, Joe Wender. Importer Becky Wasserman is the managing director. Brothers Bernard and François Giroud kept the vineyards; the Americans took the brand, winery, and an impressive collection of 350,000 bottles, some dating back to 1937. David Croix, the young but talented winemaker, is moving toward purchasing only grapes (as opposed to already-made wine), so he can maintain control of the process. He works in the vineyard with his suppliers. The wines are aged mostly in once-used barrels, then bottled unfiltered. Parker's description of the 2006 accurately reflects the 2007: "Strikes a lovely balance between sweetness of plum and cherry fruit, the tartness of their skins, and the bitterness of their pits. Its stony, chalky undertow does not prevent the fruit from persisting in a downright lip-smacking charm offensive."

Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Louis Latour, 2005 ($29.99) - Burgundy values are few and far between, but because most people associate the village of Chassagne-Montrachet with its fabulous white wines, the reds of Chassagne are often overlooked and can be very good values. From an historical perspective it is interesting to note that until relatively recently Chassagne was best known for its red wines. White wine now represents 60% of production. As a negoçiant, Maison Latour purchases grapes and often finished wine from small growers. Historically Latour’s standards have varied, but this wine is a winner. It is fragrant with elegant cherry aromas, light to medium body, and surprisingly full fruit flavors that have already developed some complexity. The wine is typical for its terroir with delicious aromas of wild black berries and distinct black currant. It has ample fruit and great length on the palate. It drinks quite well now, but it will evolve magnificently over the next two years.

Domaine Francois Gaunoux Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Chenes," 2005 ($59.99), Beaune 1er Cru "Clos des Mouches," 2005 ($64.99), and Pommard 1er Cru "Les Grands Epenots," 2005 ($69.99) - It's always a pleasure to see a producer hold back wines for an extra year before release. Itfs also a pleasure to see relatively reasonable prices for such distinguished Burgundy vineyards from such a fine Burgundy vintage. "Clos des Chenes" is a top 'climat' in Volnay and offers a combination of strength and elegance with complexity and balance. The Beaune is from a fabled 'cru' in the southern part of this appellation tucked in a hillside bordering on Pommard. Showing both a feminine side and a serious streak, this is a fine example of the appellation at a great price. The Pommard shows a combination of strength and finesse. This complete wine is the quintessential "iron fist in a velvet glove." All are limited. Due in the first week of May.

Lignier-Michelot Morey St. Denis Premier Cru " Les Façonnières," 2008 ($79.99) - It's unusual to think of an $80 wine as a good value, but this is such a wonderful red Burgundy that it actually a good value despite the price. Here is the holy grail that California and Oregon Pinot producers try to emulate. It is broodingly deep, marvelously fragrant, and intensely lush despite its youthful restraint. Parker: 91-92 "'You never have to do anything to improve on the fruit of these old vines,' remarks Virgile Lignier of his Les Façonnières, 'they are always in shape.' The resulting wine from this cru is in athletically good health as well. Exuberant dark plum and cherry fruit with a tart fruit skin edge and piquantly cyanic notes of fruit pit mingle with village-typical high-toned, bittersweet herbal concentrates on a palate of infectious juiciness and exhilarating lift. Hints of soy and peat interact with the fruit in a display of energy as well as umami. Now-2025." Very limited.

Corton Grand Cru "Les Maréchaudes," Chandon de Briailles, 2002 ($95.99) - This mature and wonderful red Burgundy was cellared at the domaine and recently rereleased. Wine Spectator: 91 "Ripe and dense, with dried fruit flavors of strawberry and cherry along with licorice and forest underbrush. Traditional style. Fine concentration and balance with a chewiness to the tannins and a long, sweet finish. Best from 2007 through 2020. 10 cases imported."

Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.

Rhône
Côtes du Rhône, Domaine Paul Autard, 2007 ($15.99) - Significantly more expensive than the basic Rhônes of large producers such as Jaboulet and Guigal, Autard more than justifies the price with the quality and purity of character that only come from small, hands-on, and meticulous production. Jean-Paul Autard carries on the tradition established by Paul Autard when he founded the domaine in the village of Courthezon in the 1970s.
    Fine wine begins in the vineyard, and Autard aims for perfect balance between soil and vine. No pesticides, chemical anti-rot products, or fertilizers are used. He is guided by the method known as lutte raisonnée which includes meticulous hand labor such as the removal of non-essential shoots and leaves that would reduce vine aeration and encourage rot and mildew.
    In addition to land in Châteauneuf, Autard has 14 hectares in Côtes-du-Rhône on the Châteauneuf border. Other quality factors are the vine age (40-94 years) and the various parcels of the domaine allows for planting varietals that are perfectly adapted to each soil type.
    This wine is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and 5% Mourvèdre. The limited use of only organic fertilizer and the near perfect, dry, and windy conditions of the 2007 vintage kept yields low and are reflected in its deep color and aromatics with plush, ripe, black fruits and spice notes. Handpicked grapes were transported to the winery in small boxes to prevent damage to the fruit. Maceration and fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks equipped with a pneumatic mechanism to carry out pigeage (punching down of the cap of solids) to ensure optimal and gentle extraction of color and flavor without any harsh elements. In addition, two pumping over operations (remontages) were carried out daily for 10 days to enhance the extraction and to oxygenate the wine to attain a plush texture. Each of the varieties was vinified and aged separately until blending and bottling. No wood was used.

Domaine Galevan Côtes du Rhône "Paroles de Femme," 2007 ($15.99) - This is the perfect replacement for the delicious 2007 Paul Autard CDR that sold out. Parker: 89-90"The 2007 CDR Paroles de Femme (meaning "words of a woman") is a sexy, deep, ripe, full-bodied blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and the rest equal parts Cinsault and Carignan. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by abundant amounts of Provençal typicity as well as roasted herb, meat juice, kirsch, and black raspberry fruit notes. Enjoy it now - 2011. Proprietor Coralie Goumarre is another woman among many in the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation who seem to be pushing the envelope of quality. Sensational! A sleeper of the vintage."

Midslope Côtes du Rhône-Village “Rasteau,” 2007 ($19.99) - A key concept in French wine is terroir, the “where-ness” of a wine. The best terroir in the southern Rhône is generally considered to be Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The village of Rasteau is a close second. Rasteau is rapidly becoming recognized for its outstanding Grenache, and many believe that the best wines from Rasteau resemble a well made Châteauneuf. This wine is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. Midslope is the sister project of the wildly successful Upslope Syrah from Thompson Vineyard in Santa Barbara. Midslope represents terroir in a bottle. A very good terroir.

J.L. Chave Côtes du Rhone "Mon Coeur," 2009 ($20.99) and Crozes-Hermitage "Silène," 2007 ($26.99) - 2007 and 2009 are being heralded as one of the best ever in the Rhône. These two wines are magnificent! Chave is perhaps the most famous name in the northern Rhône; his Hermitage ($200) is second to none. The family firm has been passed down from father to son since its establishment in 1481! The current owner, Jean Louis Chave, graduated from the University of California-Davis. In addition to his focus on the great wines of Hermitage and St. Joseph, Jean Louis began a separate negoçiant business that buys high quality grapes from other parts of the Rhône. "Mon Coeur" comes from four organically grown, low-yield vineyards. It is a blend of 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and 5% old vine Carignan. most from the villages of Rasteau and Cairanne. A lush wine with gorgeous Rhône flavors, it was aged in large wood casks for 12 months. It is attractive to drink now, but it also has staying power. Parker 89-90: "Sensational, offering superb purity, texture, and richness. It should drink well for 5-7 years." Wine Spectator 90: "This has character, showing a dark, burly edge to the bittersweet cocoa and mulled blackberry fruit, with a coffee-tinged finish. Hints of garrigue and mineral flitter through." The Crozes Hermitage is made from 100% Syrah grapes from the Chave estate's young vines blended with some hillside plantings from neighbors. Chave finished the wine in his barrels at his cuverie. This intensely colored and flavored wine is a stunning value. Wine Spectator 90: "Very bright and fresh, with a lively floral note leading the way for damson plum, red cherry, and red currant fruit, backed by an elegant, iron-tinged finish." Despite identical scores, the Crozes really is a step up in depth and complexity.

Domaine La Boussiere Vacqueyras, 2007 ($28.99) - There has been great interest in the 2007 Chateauneuf-du-Papes, but the prices are high (see below). Basic Côtes du Rhônes only get you so far. Gigondas and Vacqueyras are the best villages in the southern Rhône for great wine and great value. Their quality often rivals that of CdP. This one is gorgeous. Tanzer: 91-93 "Highly spicy aromas of fresh red berries, white pepper, cinnamon, and lavender. Lush raspberry and cherry flavors are enlivened by tangy minerals. Turns sweeter on the finish, which strongly repeats the floral note. This wine's abundant fruit will give it great early appeal... [Brothers Gilles and Thierry Faravels are] among the most consistent producers in the Southern Rhone." The vines are located high on the slopes of the gorgeous Dentelles de Montmirail, where the heat is ameliorated by altitude and wind. Careful, non-interventionist winemaking (minimal sulfuring, gravity-bottling, minimal racking) yields wines of concentration and depth.  

Bouissiere Gigondas, 2004 ($28.99) - Red wines from France’s Rhône district are some of the best values out there! Châteauneuf du Pape gets all the publicity, but the wines of nearby Gigondas are equally good, and they are often better values. Bouissiere is a top Gigondas producer, and this is a remarkable wine. Stephen Tanzer: 91-93 “Saturated deep red. Smoky and lush nose with red berries, cherry, rose, garrigue, and roasted coffee. Excellent energy and precise red berry flavors. Finishes floral, juicy, and long with little sign of its 16% alcohol.” Bouissiere’s  monumental “Font du Tonin” (barrique-aged, old vines) should arrive next month.

J.L. Chave St. Joseph "Offerus," 2009 ($29.99) - Chave, one of the finest (and most expensive) producers in the northern Rhône, also buys newly fermented wine from sources in both the northern and southern Rhône and finishes them in his cellar. This wine comes from ten organic growers. It is pure Syrah with a powerful and complex aroma. Rich but not heavy, it is a beautiful wine and a remarkable Rhône value. Wine Advocate: 90-92 "The 2009 St.-Joseph Offerus may turn out to be the finest example of this cuvée yet made. Terrific fruit intensity along with abundant strawberry, black cherry, kirsch, licorice, and pepper notes make for a beautiful,, medium to full-bodied, elegant, and supple wine to drink now-2021. The Chave family has more experience than just about anybody in the winemaking world. The domaine was founded in 1481 - a decade before Christopher Columbus discovered America!"

Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Côtes du Rhône Rouge, 2007 ($31.99) - One of the great Rhône values, this wine is made from grapes grown on the wrong side of the highway and are thus not allowed to use the Châteauneuf du Pape designation. The grapes are treated and the wine is made in the same way as Beaucastel's $100 Châteauneuf. We still have some of the 2004 and 2005 Coudoulet at the same price; they are drinking beautifully. Robert Parker 92: "The blockbuster 2007 Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet, always one of the best bargains from the south, may be the finest Coudoulet ever produced. A blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and the rest Syrah, Cinsault, and a few other authorized varietals, it is incredibly opulent and rich with sensational notes of black currants, licorice, smoked herbs, and meat juices, a full-bodied mouthfeel, savory tannins, and good acidity as well as length. This outstanding wine can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. One of the great estates of the Rhône Valley, Chateau Beaucastel has been run by several generations of the Perrin family beginning with the late Jacques Perrin (who died in 1978), then the brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois, and now their sons Thomas, Marc, Pierre, and Mathieu. Beaucastel has nearly 200 acres in vine in Châteauneuf du Pape, and they have branched out with an impressive operation under the Perrin et Fils label, purchasing grapes and acquiring land (in Vinsobres and Gigondas, for example). Their goal is to become the most recognized name for high quality wines in the southern Rhône."

J.L. Chave St.- Joseph "Offerus," 2009 ($34.99) - The big brother of Chave's wonderful Mon Coeur Côtes du Rhône. J.L Chave côtes du rhône "mon coeur." Chave, one of the finest (and most expensive) producers in the northern Rhône, also buys newly fermented wine from sources in both the northern and southern Rhône and finishes them in his cellar. This wine comes from ten organic growers. It is pure Syrah with a powerful and complex aroma. Rich but not heavy, it is a beautiful wine and a remarkable Rhône value. Wine Advocate: 90-92 "The 2009 St.-Joseph Offerus may turn out to be the finest example of this cuvée yet made. Terrific fruit intensity along with abundant strawberry, black cherry, kirsch, licorice, and pepper notes make for a beautiful,, medium to full-bodied, elegant, and supple wine to drink now-2021. The Chave family has more experience than just about anybody in the winemaking world. The domaine was founded in 1481 - a decade before Christopher Columbus discovered America!" Limited

Domaine la Roquète Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2005 ($36.99) - Henri Brunier,  owner of the famous Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, purchased  this property in 1986 and turned it over to his sons, Daniel and  Frederic. New cellars were constructed in 1998, and quality is clearly  on the upswing. Because the vines are on several separate parcels,  Roquète cannot use bottles with the traditional raised crossed keys.  The vines, 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Mourvèdre average 45 years  of age. Traditional techniques are used and the wine is bottled  unfined and unfiltered. Wine Spectator: 93 and Top 100 of 2008!  "Highly Recommended! Layers of exotic fig, boysenberry, and loganberry  fruit ripple across the lush, dense structure, while hints of red  licorice, linzer torte, mesquite, and plum sauce glide through the  well-rounded finish. Drink now through 2025." The Wine Doctor wrote,  "The contrast with the 2004 vintage is fascinating. Here we have a  wine showing more depth, with an animalistic, savage edge to the nose.  The palate has a nice weight and is well composed, rather fuller and  fatter than the wine from the preceding year, but there is a good seam  of acidity underneath the wild cherry fruit to balance it out. There  is a good grip, and it has very fine potential. 17-17.5+/20"

Domaine la Bouissiere Gigondas “La Font de Tonin,” 2004 ($39.99) - The Rhône Valley continues to offer great values. Where else can you find a world class wine for less than $40? Gigondas lies northeast of Ch‚teauneuf du Pape and adjacent to Vacqueyras. In the southern Rhône, its quality is considered by many to be second only to Chateauneuf. The most commonly used grapes are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Tanzer “Massive in texture and weight, with sweet, dense, berry flavors building and expanding. Finishes with remarkable sweetness [ripeness, not sugar] as well as admirable definition to the outsized flavors. The tannins are completely absorbed by the sheer volume of fruit here.” Serve with game, beef stroganoff, or spare ribs. Cheese recommendations include St. Marcellin, Roquefort, and Epoisses.

Domaine La Barroche Chateauneuf du Pape, 2004 ($39.99) - This is just the second release from this exciting new estate. Fresh from enology school, proprietor and winemaker Julien Barrot convinced his father to stop selling grapes and to establish their own domaine, which has 12.5 hectares and produces only red wine. The average vine age is 60 years old, but 1/3 of the vines are 100 year-old Grenache, and one parcel overlooks the vines of Chateau Rayas, the most expensive wine in all of Chateauneuf du Pape. The Barroche vineyards have been farmed organically for a generation. Stephen Tanzer 93: “Intense raspberry, strawberry, and exotic blood orange aromas complicated by garrigue and anise. Supple, sweet, and elegant, showing excellent depth and a broad range of red fruit tones. Silky, intensely fruity, and long.”

Cuvée du Vatican (Jean-Marc Diffonty) Châteauneuf du Pape, 2009 ($42.99) - Parker: 90-92 "The 2009 Châteauneuf (70% Grenache, 25% Syrah, plus some Mourvèdre, Cinsault etc. aged in both foudre and old barrels) displays a dark ruby/plum color followed by sweet aromas of rasp-berries, black cherries, forest floor, and Provençal herbs. Attractive and soft with light to moderate tannin as well as medium to full body, it should drink nicely from release through 2022."

Domaine Galevan Châteauneuf du Pape, 2009 ($44.99) - Parker: 91-93+ "The 2009 Châteauneuf, a blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre from 50-year-old vines, has a beautiful deep ruby/ purple color followed by dense black raspberry and black currant notes as well as hints of smoked herbs and underbrush. Impressively built, its full-bodied richness and endearing texture border on voluptuous, while it also displays admirable purity and length. Clearly an estate on the rise, although there is very little wine available. Owner/winemaker Coralie Goumarre is another strong-minded and impressively talented woman,. Her 2009s are even better than what she did in 2007."

Domaine Courbis Cornas "Champelrose," 2009 ($47.50) - Wines from Cornas are some of the best of the northern Rhône. They are expensive but not stupidly so! Parker: 93-95 "Voluptuously textured, but I wonder if its sexy display of cassis fruit and extravagant richness is hiding more tannin than is obvious. It is a prodigious Cornas with all the pepper, smoked game, blackberry, cassis, burning ember, & scorched earth character one could desire. This rich, full-bodied 09 should be a singular Cornas to drink over the next 15+ years. Drink 2011-2026"

Raymond Usseglio Châteauneuf du Pape "Cuvée Girard," 2007 ($47.50) - Châteauneufs from the great 2007 vintage are beginning to arrive. Francis Usseglio left Italy in 1931 to become a vineyard worker in France. After years of hard work he obtained eight hectares of vines as a sharecropper and began to produce his own wine in 1949. He purchased land in 1962 and his son, Raymond, planted vines. Subsequent purchases increased the domain to 21 hectares. Decanter Magazine: "The arrival of son Stéphane at the helm in 2000 and investment in the cellars have brought positive change at Raymond Usseglio. Stéphane’s fine tuning has given great expression to the fruit and added concentration and finesse." Wine Spectator: 92 "Shows the ripeness of the vintage, with an almost heady core of raspberry, boysenberry, and blackberry fruit. But then racy acidity, a snappy licorice edge, and sweet tobacco and spice notes stretch out the grip-filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2020. "Robert Parker: "Raymond Usseglio is a serious producer fashioning traditionally made Châteauneuf du Papes that stand the test of time... The unfiltered cuvée called "Girard" is a blend of 80% Grenache, 6% Mourvèdre, 6% Syrah, and the rest Counoise and Cinsault. It is muscular and full-bodied, with a tremendously powerful aromatic profile of melted licorice, incense, fig, black cherries, black currant, pepper, and spice. This staunch traditionalist, who ages everything in old barrels for 16 to 18 months, has turned out absolutely sensational 2007s."

Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes, 2000 ($47.99) - Both Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator have called Voge’s wonderful Rhones some of the “finest wines in the world.” Wine Spectator 91: “Classy, Refined and subtle, with blueberry, blackberry, and black currant flavors. Lively, succulent, medium-bodied Syrah with a long and juicy finish.”

Chateauneuf du Pape, Charvin, 2007 ($75) - Parker: 97! "The finest wine ever made at Charvin. The blend from the 45- to 50-year-old vines is 85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese, all aged in cement tanks prior to being bottled unfiltered. A terrific nose of kirsch, lavender, licorice, forest floor, and spice box soars from the glass of this full-bodied effort. With fabulous density, a multidimensional mouthfeel, and a 45+-second finish this brilliant, elegant, feminine-styled wine is loaded with concentration and intensity. Like many 2007 Chateauneuf du Papes, the extraordinary fruit level makes it hard to resist. However, it will be even better in 3-5 years, and should last for 15-20."

Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas “La Louvee,” 2005 ($74.99) - This young Rhone will benefit from some aging, but it is an exceptionally good, layered wine.” Wine Spectator: 94 “This is packed, with dark fig and raspberry ganache notes all richly layered with bittersweet cocoa, aged tobacco, loam, and iron. The long, muscular finish will need time to stretch out. Best from 2008 through 2017. 350 cases made.”

Chave Hermitage, 2006 ($199.95 net) - We've previously written up J.L. Chave's negoçiant Côte du Rhône and Crozes-Hermitage, but this is the real deal from one of the great Rhône producers. Parker: 95-98 "This should turn out to be a great, great vintage for their red Hermitage as it reveals the classic cassis, crushed rock, and pepper characteristics along with enormous power, unctuosity, and richness. Licorice and black olive notes are also apparent. This is a dead-ringer for the 1991 Chave Hermitage, which is drinking spectacularly well today. A bastion of traditionalism and terroir-sensitive winemaking, the Chaves, both father Gerard and son Jean-Louis, continue to establish higher and higher standards for artisanal, high quality winemaking without manipulation or compromise. The Chave address remains one of the most extraordinary places of learning in the wine world. Most importantly, they have had a remarkable succession of successful vintages that began in 1994." Very limited.

Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.

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Others
Puech Cocut Merlot, Vin de Pays D'Oc, 2008 ($9.58/750ml, $17.59/1.5L) - Although not from a prestigious part of France, this is a very solid every-day red wine. It is one of our best sellers.

Domaine Sainte Eugénie, Languedoc-Roussillon, 2006 ($12.99) and Domaine Grange des Rouquette, Costières de Nîmes, 2006 ($12.99) - These wines are imported by Robert Kacher who scours the French countryside looking for good values from off-the-beaten-path regions. The Sainte Eugénie is a blend of 60% Carignan, 20% Grenache, and 20% Syrah from the foothills of the Pyrénées along the Mediterranean coast. The Carignan vines are over 65 years old. About 40% of the wine is aged in small cask for up to one year. The result is a marvelously complex and clean wine that rivals anything produced in the appellation. The red fruits burst from the glass with mild hints of toast and spice that continue through the impeccably balanced finish. The Grange des Rouquette, made by Thierry & Véronique Boudinaud, comes from the right bank of the Rhône River just outside of the Côtes du Rhône proper. It is a blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre. The three varietals were harvested separately, allowing each to attain maximum ripeness. Most of the wine was fermented in tank with a small amount of the old-vine Syrah vinified in barrel. The beautiful, sweet red fruit in the nose is round and soft on the palate. Thierry traveled extensively in his quest for knowledge about winemaking while working in California, New Zealand, and Bordeaux.

Domaine Santa Duc "Les Plans," 2006 (14.99) - Yves Gras of Domaine Santa Duc is a legendary producer of Gigondas, and has bottled for us this wonderful little cuvée from the Vaucluse. Only 500 cases are ever made. The vineyards are located in areas just outside the famous appellations of Gigondas and Vacqueyras. The wine is made from 50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 15% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are fermented full cluster to add structure and complexity and aged completely in stainless steel tanks to retain the fruit.

Clos la Coutale Cahors, 2007 ($14.99) - If you’re impressed by Argentine Malbecs, you may be interested in trying the varietal from its French origin. Cahors lies southeast of Bordeaux and is known for its deeply colored, rich red wines. This classic example, blended with 20% Merlot, shows intense and ripe fruit. Wine Spectator: 90 "There’s a sense of elegance to the well-defined, concentrated flavors of dark cherry, blackberry, and plum followed by notes of sage, dark chocolate, and tobacco leaf on the long, powerful finish. Drink now." Parker: 88 "Philippe Bernede’s 2007 Cahors continues a long-running streak of excellence. Smelling of ripe mulberries, cassis, cardamom, carob, and black walnut husks, it offers a juicy and expansive palate. Peppery pungency, sirloin juices, and faintly tart black fruits dominate a long finish. Paired with grilled meats, where freshness and its lack of weightiness will prove welcome. this will serve admirably for 3-4 years and might even pick up some richness and complexity."

Chateau St. Jean de la Gineste Old Vines Corbiere, 2008 ($15.99) - I was nearly left nearly speechless by this fabulous wine. Nearly! It will blow you away. A blend of 80% Carignan and 20% Grenache from the Languedoc, it was fermented and aged in cool, underground concrete vats. I’m not normally a fan of unwooded red wines, but this one really works. The incredibly rich fruit is beautifully preserved, there is enough structure for short-term aging, and the amount of pleasure per dollar spent is simply off the charts. The vineyard was planted in 1925, and most of the original vines still remain. Adversity sometimes yields greatness. Marie-Hélène Bacave was left a widow with young children when her husband, Dominique, recently died of brain cancer. She continues to make the wines and has brought in outside help to farm the property.

Mas de Gourgonnier, Les Baux de Provence, 2009 ($15.99) - Luc and Lucienne Cartier have been farming and making wine organically for decades. Their gorgeous, countryside property yields powerful expressions of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan, and more – not to mention olives (their oil is one of France’s finest) and incredible fruit and vegetables.  Luc and Lucienne’s wines combine the richness and intensity of top Rhône or Bordeaux with a crystal-clear and unmistakable expression of Provençal soil.  They use a distinctive, rustic, squat bottle for this great value.  Parker hasn't reviewed this wine since the 2007 vintage, but is description applies here as well: "The 2007 Les Baux de Provence constitutes nearly 30% each of Carignan and Grenache, with slightly smaller shares of Cabernet Sauvignon (less than in several recent vintages) and Syrah. Smelling delightfully of fresh plums, sandalwood, ginger, cinnamon, lavender, and a hint of game, it is expansive and with fine-grained underlying tannins. Juniper and cassis add a pleasantly bitter pungency to the finish, contributing along with saline and smoky notes to the invigoration of a long finish. This understated wine will not only offer highly versatile enjoyment over the next 3-4 years but should blossom further as well. The varietal makeup can vary dramatically each year according to the vicissitudes of nature and the insights of the blenders. Yet it is always a distinctly recognizable wine."

Domaine Faillenc Sainte Marie Corbieres, 2007 ($16.99) - This is a wine that people either love or hate for its wonderfully dramatic bouquet, fat texture, and slightly wild and earthy but impressive character. Remains of a Roman winery have been found on this property, a testament to the ancient tradition of winemaking here. In its present form, the domaine was founded during the reign of Louis XIV (1638-1715) by an officer returning from service on the Indian subcontinent. A small property with eight hectares of certified organic vineyards stubbornly clinging to the rocky foothills of Mont Alaric, it is currently owned by Dominique and Marie-Therese Gibert. The vineyards are buffeted by the northwesterly Tramontane wind and the southerly Autan breezes coming off the nearby Mediterranean creating an extremely dry climate. Syrah, Grenache Noir, and Cinsault are the red grape varieties grown here. The terroir is composed of inhospitable, rocky limestone terraces. Only vines, olive trees, and some scraggly brush survive under these harsh conditions. As a result, yields are naturally low. The grapes are strongly marked by their environment, and this powerful character shows through in this blend of Syrah (85%), Grenache, and Cinsault. The grapes are partially destemmed before a long maceration extracts the maximum of flavors and allows the varietals to harmonize.

Domaine du Bel Air Bourgueil "Jour du Soif, (translates as 'day of thirst')" 2009 ($16.99) - The village of Bourgueil (pronounced something like boor-GOY and bore-GOY) is one of the Loire Valleys best producers of red wine. Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, these wines are often quite vegetal in style, but 2009 was an incredibly good vintage in the Loire, and the ripeness of the fruit in this wine makes it immensely appealing. It will stand up to pretty hearty fare. Serve it with a light chill.

Mas de Gourgonnier Reserve du Mas, Les Beaux de Provence, 2007 ($25.99) - The non-reserve wine from this terrific Provençal property continues to be a fine value at $15.99, but this reserve bottling is outstanding. It shows wonderful old-world earthiness, good depth of garrigue and other Rhône-like fruit, and some new oak. It is a blend of mostly Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Carignan. Run with passion and skill by Luc and Lucienne Cartier, this property has been farmed organically for decades. Very limited.

François Crochet Sancerre Rouge "Réserve de Marcigoué," 2006 ($27.99) – Yes, Virginia, there is a red Sancerre! In fact, Sancerre was known primarily for red wine made from Pinot Noir until the late 19th century. After the devastation of phylloxera, the majority of its vineyards were replanted with Sauvignon Blanc, but even today Pinot Noir accounts for about 20% of production. No other varietals are allowed in the 14 villages permitted to use the Sancerre AOC. Most of the Pinot Noir goes into rosé or light reds similar to Beaujolais, but a few producers go for a more serious Burgundian style. Even those producers don't always succeed, but François Crochet has been making terrific wines in most vintages. This amazingly good wine exceeds the quality and depth of fruit available from Burgundy at this price. Fragrant and ripe red-berry fruit on the nose is followed by copious amounts of wild strawberry and violet character on the palate. Deep in color, the wine is subtle, complex, and lengthy. The grapes were hand-harvested from vines with an average age of 35 years grown on chalky clay soil. The wine was aged in a combination of 228 liter and 500 liter oak barrels for 14 months after which it was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Only 250 cases were made. A winner!

Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge “La Damoiselle,” 2003 ($94.99) - So there’s this guy who keeps hitting his head against the wall. Why? “Because it feels so good when I stop.” We hit our heads against a wall when we buy a wine that we know will be difficult to sell either because it is unusual, expensive, or both. But it is so good that we accept the challenge. This is a very expensive red wine from a region known for its whites. Add the fact that it is 100% Pinot Noir, a varietal associated only with Burgundy in France. Made from 60-year old vines, this deeply colored wine is rich, concentrated, and very serious. It is not overpriced!

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