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Burgundy
Pouilly Fuissé, Collin Bourisset, 2005 ($17.99) - Many white wine lovers have a new motto: “ABC” - Anything But Chardonnay. The multitude of over-oaked, food-unfriendly Chardon-nays have left these people desperate for alternatives. Fear not, gentle people, the answer may be right in front of you. Many Chardonnays see not a splinter of wood. A scant few of these are from California; others are from such places as Spain and Italy. But the majority of quality, unoaked Chardonnays are from France, specifically from Burgundy. Although the best white Burgundies are aged in oak (albeit much less oak exposure than the typical California Chard), most of the wines from Chablis and the Mâcon are unoaked. And the king of the Mâcon is Pouilly Fuissé. Although frequently overpriced, many of these wines are worthy. Collin Bourisset makes one that is a fine value as well as of very good quality. Medium-bodied, crisp, and refined, this is what Chardonnay can and should taste like. And it works with food. Gilbert
Picq Chablis, 2006
($21.49) - A
family affair, this small domaine has been owned by the Picqs since 1976. With
their father now retired, the children run the show. Didier works the cellar,
Pascal oversees the vineyards, and Marilyn looks after the commercial side in
the office. Severe pruning gives low yields which allows the vines to ripen
fewer grapes and reduces the need to chaptalize (add sugar) a practice that is
common in Chablis. Made from 22-year old vines from a number of different vineyards, this
unoaked Chardonnay is crisp, clean, nervy, flinty, minerally, and age-worthy.
At a time when many Chablis producers are pushing the boundaries of Chablis
geographically and stylistically, it is a delight to find a traditional producer
whose age-worthy wines are pure and true. The tell-tale minerality of fine
Chablis is evident in this light-to-medium-bodied wine, and the finish is
exceptional for a village wine. Picq Chablis is a fine introduction to the
vintage, which was one of Burgundy’s best in recent memory. For a real
education, put a few bottles away for 5 years or more. As good as these wines
are when young, they develop nuances and complexity with age. Verget Macon-Charnay “Le Clos Saint-Pierre,” 2006
($22.99) - The
2003 and 2004 editions of this wine were warmly received, and this new release
should be no different. It shows good body, a citrusy, but not tart character,
minerals, and little if any oak. In 1990, after 5 years as a wine broker,
Jean-Marie Guffens founded this negoçiant company. With the motto “the best
wine is made using the best grapes,” he criss-crossed Burgundy to find old,
quality vineyards and small growers as potential suppliers. Verget buys only
handpicked grapes and trucks them in small crates (to protect the fruit) to his
facility where they are vinified. Guffens has developed a unique style. Focus is
on barrel fermentation and lees aging. Verget wines display precision, sharpness
of fruit, considerable mineral focus, and textural richness. Bourgogne Blanc, Domaine Henri Clerc, 2005 ($21.99) - The Clerc estate dates to the 16th century. Since the retirement of Bernard Clerc in 2002, Vincent Girardin is in charge of the vineyards and winemaking. The fruit for this wine comes from a block of vines called “Les Riaux.” These vines sit just below Clerc’s Puligny-Montrachet AOC vineyard, between the village and the Route Nationale. Like all Clerc wines, this was made from hand harvested grapes that are immediately pressed to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for seven days before being transferred to oak barrels (one third new) for fermentation and maturation. Bottling takes place about eleven months later. Quite good although light in style, this is very well made with nice balance and a round texture. Domaine J.M. Boillot Bourgogne Blanc 2005 ($23.99) - This is a marvelous introduction to high quality white Burgundy from a great vintage. With fine fruit, structure, minerality, and oak, Boillot’s basic white is as good as many other producers’ Puligny-Montrachets. Jean-Marc Boillot is a star of the Côte d’Or. Per-Henrik Mansson wrote in the Wine Spectator, “Few Burgundians are as talented in producing both whites and reds as Boillot. Few also have such a clear vision of what great Burgundy should taste like. With 21 appellations at his disposal, he manages to produce seductively rich, dense, and concentrated whites and reds.” Boillot was determined to improve his family’s wines, but in 1984, after vinifying thirteen vintages at the family’s Domaine Henri Boillot, he walked out in protest intent on producing highly concentrated, rich and ripe wines. He became the winemaker for Olivier Leflaive for the next four years, and at the same time produced wines from five acres of vineyards bottled under his own label. These wines so impressed Henri, Boillot’s grandfather, that he bequeathed half his vineyard to Jean-Marc. His maternal grandfather was the late Etienne Sauzet, from whom he also inherited exceptional vineyards. Boillot uses only organic fertilizers, with biological insecticides and copper-sulfate fungicide. The vines are pruned in single guyot style. Yields are low, averaging 38 hectoliters per hectare. Fermentation is in 25% new Allier oak of medium toast. Gilbert Picq Chablis Vielles Vignes, 2004 ($23.99) - We’ve been selling Picq’s lovely 2004 AC Chablis for a few months now. This old vines bottling is clearly a step up with more depth and character. The Picq family are fanatics in the vineyards and routinely produce one of Chablis’ best village cuvées. When young, the wines are always unoaked, nervy, flinty, minerally, and as classic and pure an expression of Chablis as you can find. They can also age effortlessly – even the AC Chablis – for 15 to 20 years. Allen Meadows rated this wine 91 points: “Picq has been on a roll as of late…and his 2004s are flat out terrific.” Pernand Vergelesses, Louis Latour, 2005 ($26.99) - The vineyards of Pernand Vergelesses lie literally a stones throw from the Grand Cru vineyard of Corton Charlemagne; in fact, part of the famous vineyard lies within the village. Although slightly off the beaten path, Pernand Vergelesses offers exceptional value in fine vintages such as 2005. As Hugh Johnson puts it, “If Savigny and Pernand are slightly in the background, it is only because the foreground is so imposing. The best growers of both make wines up to the highest Beaune standard.” Louis Latour is one of the best of the old time shippers. Good relations with some of the best growers and impeccably high standards account for the consistent quality of Latour’s wines. Benoit et Jean-Paul Droin Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru 2004 ($31.99) - Benoit Droin took over the family domaine in 1999 and continues to evolve the estate’s style towards a more terroir-driven Chablis style, as opposed to a richer, oaked style that his father had produced. The family has phenomenal holdings, many with very old vines, in some of Chablis’ most venerable 1er and Grand Crus. Benoit feels that 2004 is his strongest set of wines to date. “The wines have the austerity and minerality of 2000 with the fruit and fat of 2002.” Allen Meadows: 87-89 “A touch of vanilla and subtle spice notes frame riper and softer flavors that offer good volume and solid mid-palate sap that renders this more approachable, yet still delivers good length and moderate Chablis character. Benoit Droin is getting better and better at what he does, and while his 2002s were excellent, in many cases his 2004s are better still.” Louis Michel Chablis, 2004 ($22.99) and Chablis 1er Cru Vaillon, 2004 ($33.99) - After
the extreme heat of 2003, the 2004 white Burgundies marked a welcome return to a
classically rendered vintage. As Steve Tanzer points out, while the vintage was
not without its complicating factors, “the 2004s will give considerable
pleasure to lovers of classic, fresh, minerally white Burgundy.” According to Burghound’s
Allen Meadows, “many growers likened 2004 to a hypothetical blend of 2000 and
2002, combining the elegant fruit, early drinkability and natural sweetness of
2002 with the purity, transparency and zesty minerality of 2000.” Meursault “Les Charrons,” J.M. Boillot, 2005 ($45.99) – I LOVE THIS WINE! This is actually a great value in white Burgundy; it tastes like a more expensive wine. The Les Charrons vineyard is located on the mid-slope next to the 1er Cru Les Gouttes d’Or. Its grapes consistently attain optimal ripeness, and this is a classic, full-bodied Meursault to be enjoyed with salmon, lobster, scallops, or crab. Winereviewonline.com’s Michael Apstein 92 points: “Boillot makes stylish white Burgundies. This village wine delivers as much as many wines from premier cru vineyards. The alluring nose grabs your attention and predicts a fine wine. Focused richness emerges in the long finish.” Per-Henrik Mansson, writing in the Wine Spectator, said, “Few Burgundians are as talented in producing both whites and reds as Boillot. Few also have such a clear vision of what great Burgundy should taste like. With no fewer than 21 appellations at his disposal, he manages to produce seductively rich, dense, and concentrated whites and reds in all years.”
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
“La Garenne,” Sylvain & Nathalie Langoureau, 2006 ($54.99) - With the best village white Burgundies
pushing the $50 mark, this premier cru is actually a relative value. Aged
in 25% new oak, this wine shows some wood on the palate, but it has lush
fruit, balancing acidity, and great harmony. This family owned domaine was
taken over by Sylvain in 1988. In 1991 he acquired and modernized a 17th
century property which is now the chai. All the winemaking, elévage, and
storage is under one roof. The domaine comprises 6 hectares of vineyards
divided between St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Meursault, and
Puligny-Montrachet. The Langoureau vineyard in Puligny is situated high on
the slope near the hamlet of Blagny abutting the vineyard of that name.
Here the topsoil is quite stony, and the wines from the upper slope tend
to exhibit a higher level of acidity than those from the more famous
vineyards below; however, due to the relatively high clay content in the
soil, there is also a dimension of power in the wines. The east facing,
gentle slope allows for fine exposure despite the elevation. The vines
have an average age of 47 years. Vinification is very traditional, and the
wine spends 10 months on the lees, (battonage every two weeks) with
bottling taking place in September immediately before the next harvest. Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes,” Domaine Jean Marc Boillot, 2005 ($92.99) - Stephen Tanzer: 90-93 “Pure aromas of peach, apricot, almond, and hazelnut. Suave, subtle, and rich; less generous today than the Referts, but this has more tension and grip. Finishes fairly dry but long and pure.” Because of all the buzz and hype regarding the 2005 Burgundy vintage, the top wines like this will be in very short supply and are obviously very expensive. Loire Sancerre, Jean-Paul
Picard, 2006 ($20.99) - With the dollar
weakening to nearly $1.40 to the euro, it is not surprising that imported wines
have gone up in price. Yet Sancerres remain a bargain. There are few Sauvignon
Blancs on the market that can compare to their combination of clean fruit, solid
acidity, depth of mineral character, and overall balance and refinement. The
wines produced by this small, ten-hectare domaine are proof that not all
Sancerres are created equal. As Sancerre is a large appellation, the best
villages have developed their own reputation for quality with Bué considered
one of the finest. The vineyard slopes surrounding this hamlet have outstanding
clay-limestone soils, sunny southwestern exposures and ideal elevations. Picard
makes his fine Sancerre Blanc from the very select Grand Chemarin and Chene
Marchand vineyards. The best Sauvignon Blancs, like Picard’s, have a fresh
grass and mineral bouquet with lots of orange-citrus fruit on the palate and a
clean, refreshing finish. This wine's elegance and balance make it an ideal
match for a range of white meat and fish dishes. Sancerre, Picard, 2006 ($20.99) - The eastern part of France’s Loire Valley is famous for white wines made exclusively from Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Sancerre is the most prestigious town in this area and its wines are crisply clean with excellent balance. This one is a bit more refined than most at this price. Sancerre, Domaine Serge Laloue, 2006 ($22.99) - Brothers Serge and Frank Laloue are the latest generation to run this 18-hectare (44 acres) domaine. They combine a modern winemaking facility with traditional techniques in the vineyard. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes are hand harvested and stainless-steel fermented to accent the “terroir” of the vineyards. This regular bottling comes from Kimmeridigan soils that are similar to those of Chablis. It is lean and racy with good body and a bit more class and balance than most Sancerres. The brothers also make a fuller, richer, more viscous Cuvée Silex ($28.99), which comes from the “silex” soils of the area. François Crochet Sancerre, 2006 ($24.99) - Like his cousin Lucien, François Crochet makes a very high quality Sancerre. An innovative winemaker, he worked in New Zealand to learn what might make his own Sauvignon Blanc more exciting and vibrant. François is now a victim of his own success and cannot keep up with the demand for his hand-crafted wines. Based in the top commune of Bué, the Crochet estate enjoys the advantage of south-facing, limestone slopes which have long been recognized for producing the best grapes in Sancerre. François keeps yields low by thinning both buds and bunches of grapes during the season. This is classic Sancerre with a modern, international edge in its exceptional freshness and aromatic fruit. This mouth-filling wine makes an ideal partner for shellfish, sea bass, tapas, or goats cheese.
Philippe Foreau Vouvray Sec, 2002 ($35.99) - Wine Spectator 92 “Ripe pure aromas of minerals, lemon, and white grapefruit. Precise, delineated, and uncompromising on the palate; has a strongly floral character and terrific flavor intensity. More than enough ripe fruit to support the penetrating acidity. Firm classic Vouvray, with a chalky finish.”
Alsace
Deiss Gewürztraminer “Bergheim,” 1999
($34.99) - Marcel Deiss was born into a family of Alsatian grape growers whose
roots extend back to 1744. Upon returning from World War II to his home town of
Bergheim, he rediscovered those roots and began to establish what is now one of
the most prestigious estates in all of Alsace. His son Jean-Michel Deiss now
runs the 22 hectare estate. Tom Stephenson, in his book The Wines of Alsace,
says “Deiss has produced some of the most fabulously rich and concentrated
wines in Alsace, but they always have impeccable balance. Jean-Michel Deiss is
without doubt one of the region’s greatest wine makers.” This is an
expensive Gewürztraminer, but the wonderful perfume and the delicious tropical
fruit, floral, and spice flavors make this stunning wine well worth the price. A
rare combination of opulence and finesse. Only 40 cases made it to the metro
area.
Other Chateau Chaubinet Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 ($9.99) - Here is a lovely white Bordeaux with classic citrus aromas of Sauvignon Blanc. It shows minerality, fine fruit, and good balance. Zesty lemon-lime and apple flavors plus lively acidity make it the perfect match with shellfish, fish, or spicy oriental dishes.
Domaine Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 ($13.49) - The founding
and early history of Domaine Tariquet is a fascinating but long one. Go to
www.tariquet.com/uk/history-tariquet.asp;
it is worth the time. Located in Gascony, the domaine produces very fine
Armagnac as well as a line of quality varietal wines. The estate-bottled
Sauvignon Blanc is 100% varietal. Gascony's mild climate offers this grape
variety a new range of aromas. Its distinctive bouquet shows fine intense
floral notes, some minerality, and an underlying suggestion of ripe
grapes. It is fresh and refined with an attractive intensity. This is a
wonderful wine with fish, shellfish, and white meat.
Chateau
Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc, 2003
($59.99) - A superb white Bordeaux. Robert Parker gave
it a 93-point rating with no tasting notes. In general, he suggested early
consumption for the 2003 whites, for the acid levels will not support long term
aging.
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