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Burgundy
Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne Blanc, 2007 ($19.99) - This wood-aged 100% Chardonnay comes from a highly respected Burgundy house. Pierre Faiveley founded the domaine in 1825 as a negoçiant house. His son, Joseph (1823-1923) began purchasing vineyards. Subsequent generations continued buying land. Today Domaine Faiveley owns 120 hectares (296 acres) of vineyards that include prestigious Crus from Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, as well as Mercurey in Côte Chalonnaise. The remaining 20% of their production comes from select vineyards under long-term contract. Beginning with the 2006 vintage, all negoçiant wines made by Faiveley carry the Joseph Faiveley name. This basic (for Faiveley) wine comes from plots in all three regions. The 2007 vintage was saved from mediocrity by gorgeous weather that began in early September. Thin wines were made by growers who completed their harvest in August, but most of Faiveley’s grapes were not picked until mid-September. The wine was aged for 10 months (50% in French oak barrels with a light toast). A pleasure to drink, it has good acidity, freshness, and elegance. The expressive nose of white flower is followed by bold and generous fruit, the merest touch of wood, and an exceptionally long-lasting finish. Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay, Thierry et Pascale Matrot, 2007 ($19.99) - The Matrot family has been estate bottling wines for three generations and have been farming organically since 2000. This lovely wine from a vineyard just outside of Meursault (average age of fines - 30 years) is a great introduction to white Burgundy. It was fermented with native yeast in oak barrels (15-20% new) for 8-10 weeks, then left on the lees (with stirring or ("batonnage") for another 11 months during which it completed malo-lactic fermentation. The wine combines bright fruit with a nice acid balance. Pears and apples show on the nose, and it has a round texture despite the acidity. It is refreshing and shows a touch of licorice on the finish. Serve it with charcuterie, chicken, or fish. Domaine Nembrets St. Veran, 2009 ($19.99) - It's not easy to find really worthy white Burgundies under $20, but this is a gorgeous one. Denis Barraud has put together a relatively new domaine from several established vineyards that have passed through his family for generations. His Saint Veran holdings are in two parcels near Davayé averaging 40 years. Only 250 cases of this wine are produced. It was vinified 50% in used barrels and 50% in stainless steel. It has very good depth of fruit, solid acidity, some minerality and complexity, and fine length. Lovely balancing acidity makes it a fine accompaniment to food, but it can also be enjoyed by itself now and over the next two years. Henri Clerc Bourgogne Blanc "La Riaux" Chardonnay, 2009 ($23.99) - This is the new vintage of a limited production, white Burgundy gem. Lush in fruit and texture, it shows beautiful Chardonnay character with the subtleties and structure that come from aging in used oak barrels but none of the oakiness of wines aged in new oak or subjected to oak chips. The Clerc estate dates to the 16th century. Since the retirement of Bernard Clerc in 2002, Vincent Girardin is in charge of the vineyards and winemaking. The fruit for this wine comes from a block of vines called “Les Riaux.” These vines sit just below Clerc’s Puligny-Montrachet AOC vineyard, between the village and the Route Nationale. Like all Clerc wines, this was made from hand harvested grapes that are immediately pressed to retain maximum fruit and aromatic extraction. The must is kept in tanks at low temperatures for seven days before being transferred to oak barrels (one third new) for fermentation and maturation. Bottling takes place about eleven months later. Quite good although slightly light in style, this is very well made with nice balance and a round texture. We still have some 2007; the equally delicious 2008 has arrived. Bourgogne Blanc Chardonnay, Domaine Michelot, 2009 ($22.99) - My wife and I visited Michelot in 1999. The retired Bernard Michelot spoke no English, and we spoke precious little French. It was an interesting experience! Jean-François Mestre assumed control and revitalized this 22-hectate estate in 1993 after he married one of Bernard’s four daughters. The Bourgogne Blanc comes from three southeast facing hectares at the base of the Meursault slope. The 35-year old vines are in the village of Meursault, but just outside the wine appellation because they are on flatter ground. Exactly like Michelot’s Meursault cuvées, this wine was fermented and aged for ten months in 20% new oak casks, then assembled into tanks to preserve freshness before bottling. This is a terrific wine with the citrus and toasty notes of Meursault. Domaine G ilbert Picq et Ses Fils Chablis, 2008 ($22.99) - A family affair, this small domaine has been owned by the Picqs since 1976. With their Gilbert now retired, the children run the show. Didier works the cellar, Pascal oversees the vineyards, and Marilyn looks after the commercial side in the office. Severe pruning gives low yields which allows the vines to ripen fewer grapes and reduces the need to chaptalize (add sugar) a practice that is common in Chablis. Made from 22-year old vines from a number of different vineyards, this unoaked Chardonnay is crisp, clean, nervy, flinty, minerally, and age-worthy. At a time when many Chablis producers are pushing the boundaries of Chablis geographically and stylistically, it is a delight to find a traditional producer whose age-worthy wines are pure and true. The tell-tale minerality of fine Chablis is evident in this light-to-medium-bodied wine, and the finish is exceptional for a village wine. Picq Chablis is a fine introduction to the vintage, which was one of Burgundy’s best in recent memory. For a real education, put a few bottles away for 5 years or more. As good as this wines is when young, it develops nuances and complexity with age"Picqued" your interest? Here's more info: Starting in 2006, they have converted to 100% natural yeats for all of their cuvees. All of the Picq Chablis bottlings are fermented and raised in stainless steel tanks to protect the wines’ underlying expressions of terroir. Pascal Picq is careful to keep yields as low as possible each year, pruning back severely each winter and routinely crop-thinning on two occasions each summer. The serious work in the vineyards can be felt immediately in the Picq wines, as even the Chablis villages and the old vine cuvée offer up a depth and intensity of flavor in the mid-palates that is most often associated with at least premier cru level wines. The relatively small size of the estate may also account for the exceptional quality of their Chablis AC bottling, as there is always sufficient attention paid to the village wine in the cellars by Didier Picq. The Picq Chablis AC is one of the finest examples to be found in the appellation, with the structure and cut to age gracefully for up to twenty years. It is a great, great value. Francois D'Allaines Rully Vielles Vignes, 2006 ($24.99) - Rully is one of the communes in Burgundy's Côte Châlonnaise district. Like the Côte d'Or to the north, only Chardonnay can be used here for the white wines and Pinot Noir for the reds. This lovely example comes from vines over 30 years of age. With low yields of 35 hl/ha, it has good body and texture, and it displays white flowers, hazelnut, peach pit, and even some honeysuckle character. Try it with grilled fish or cheeses such as Emmental, Comté, and Beaufort. Domaine Michel Briday Rully Blanc, 2009 ($25.99) - Created by Michel and Lucette Briday in 1976, this domaine in Burgundy’s Cote de Chalonnais is now run by their son, Stephane, and his wife, Sandrine. They own 16 hectares (39 acres) of vines in Rully, Bouzeron, and Mercurey, and use no herbicides. Stephane is a character. He kicks everyone out of the winery when it comes time to blend the small lots into the final wine before bottling. He blasts "Dark Side of the Moon" throughout the winery while he works! This elegant, unoaked Chardonnay is a beautiful expression of the flowers and fruit (peach, pear, and citrus) of Chardonnay when its delicacy is not overwhelmed by wood. It is a fragrant wine with ripeness, a nice mouth-feel, lovely freshness, and surprising minerality for its price and pedigree. It should age nicely. Domaine Nembrets Pouilly-Fuissé "Clos de la Combe-Poncet (Monopole)," 2009 ($29.99) - One pays more for Pouilly-Fuissé, but one usually gets an extra level of refinement and class. Barraud has several P-F holdings in the town of Vergisson. This vineyard is only 16 years old, but the wine has plenty of character, good minerality and balance, real finesse, and length. Barraud began putting his estate together after he graduated from the Lycée Viticole of Macon Davayé ten years ago. Although the domaine is not certified organic, organic techniques are rigorously practiced. The vineyard work and harvesting are done by hand. A "Clos" is a place surrounded by a wall with only one entrance. It must be old (more than 100 years), and the wall must be built with stone using no cement. In 2004 Denis was cleaning the perimeter of this vineyard and found an old stone wall hidden under ivy. The wall ran all around the vineyard and thus entitled him to use the term "clos." There are only five in the Pouilly-Fuissé area. Because this entire Clos belongs to one owner, it is considered a Monopole! Domaine des Gerbeaux Pouilly-Fuissé "Terroir de Pouilly et Fuissé," 2008 ($29.99) - The most famous wine from Burgundy's Mâcon district, Pouilly-Fuissé can come from four Chardonnay-growing villages. Most examples are priced in the mid-$20 range, but there are several premium producers whose wines (and their prices) rival the great wines of the Côte d'Or. Although not inexpensive, this wine is an exceptional value, easily the quality equivalent of white Burgundies costing $40 and more. Made from vines up to 85 years old, it displays good body, richness, and depth of fruit. This integrated and very classy wine has a beautiful balance of roundness, minerality, and acidity. The seven-hectare domaine was created by Jacques Charvet in 1896. Five of the hectares lie within the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. Charvet's grandson, Jean-Michel Drouin, the current owner and winemaker, farms the estate according to biodynamic principles. The "Terroir de P&F" comes from the best and oldest vines on red and chalky soils. It was aged in oak (20% new) for 18 months. Don't miss this special wine! Marsannay Blanc "Les Champs Perdrix," Marc Roy, 2008 ($33.99) - The Côte d'Nuits, the northern part of Burgundy's Côte d'Or, is famous for its Pinot Noirs, but a little Chardonnay is also grown. At 4 hectares, this domaine is small, even by Burgundy's standards. Alexandrine Roy, the fourth generation Roy to run the estate, makes red wines from Gevrey Chambertin and this wonderful white from a lieu-dit (a named vineyard that is neither a premier nor a grand cru) in the most southwestern corner of Marsannay adjoining the appellation of Fixin. This is a stony vineyard with a limestone base at an elevation near 400m which helps to account for the bright, citrus, mineral, and racy character. It is bottled without malo-lactic fermentation and compares favorably to the wines of Puligny and Chassagne, but at a much lower price. Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, 2009 $37.99) and 1er Cru Tonnerre, 2009 ($42.99) - These remarkable white Burgundies from a great vintage will drink well young and age beautifully. Parker: 90 "The Vaillons opens with beautiful, well-articulated aromatics, then turns a bit richer in the glass as the personality of the vintage becomes apparent. A relatively easygoing Vaillons best for near-term drinking, although the underlying minerality should allow it to age gracefully. Best from 2013-2019." Parker: 92 "The 09 Montee de Tonnerre is quite pretty and very accessible for a young wine. Plenty of personality and character, while all of the elements are beautifully balanced throughout. Hints of ash, smoke, crushed rocks, licorice, and earth meld together on the virile, imposing finish. Once again, Montee de Tonnerre boasts impeccable class and pedigree. Best from 2013-2019. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Louis Michel. The estate farms 25 hectares, and the wines are made with native yeasts and are aged on their fine lees in stainless steel with one racking." J.M. Boillot Meursault "Les Charrons," 2007 (reg: $49.99; sale: $39.99) - Jean-Marc Boillot makes outstanding and expensive Burgundies. From a lieux dit (a named vineyard that is only a village wine), this wine offers great value even if it canft compete with Boillot's best premier and grand crus. The vines average 30 years of age, and the wine was fermented and aged without racking for 11 months in 25-30% new Allier and Vosges oak with weekly bâtonnage (lees stirring). It has developed nicely since Tanzer tasted it pre-bottling. "87 points. Aromas of nectarine and spicy, nutty oak. Round, ripe, and sweet with modest flavor and concentration."
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
“La Garenne,” Sylvain & Nathalie Langoureau, 2006 ($54.99) - With the best village white Burgundies
pushing the $50 mark, this premier cru is actually a relative value. Aged
in 25% new oak, this wine shows some wood on the palate, but it has lush
fruit, balancing acidity, and great harmony. This family owned domaine was
taken over by Sylvain in 1988. In 1991 he acquired and modernized a 17th
century property which is now the chai. All the winemaking, elévage, and
storage is under one roof. The domaine comprises 6 hectares of vineyards
divided between St-Aubin, Chassagne-Montrachet, Meursault, and
Puligny-Montrachet. The Langoureau vineyard in Puligny is situated high on
the slope near the hamlet of Blagny abutting the vineyard of that name.
Here the topsoil is quite stony, and the wines from the upper slope tend
to exhibit a higher level of acidity than those from the more famous
vineyards below; however, due to the relatively high clay content in the
soil, there is also a dimension of power in the wines. The east facing,
gentle slope allows for fine exposure despite the elevation. The vines
have an average age of 47 years. Vinification is very traditional, and the
wine spends 10 months on the lees, (battonage every two weeks) with
bottling taking place in September immediately before the next harvest.
Jean Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet, 2006 ($64.99) - Boillot is
one of Puligny's best producers, and this is a gorgeous white Burgundy. It
originally received a respectable 88 points in The Wine Advocate,
but it has developed fabulously since then. Rich in ripe fruit, yet
impeccably balanced with just a hint of oak, it is superior to many
Premier Cru wines. Parker: "This 2006 Puligny-Montrachet
originates in nine diverse locations. Lime, grapefruit, vanilla, and
licorice in the nose lead to a generously juicy yet quite dense palate,
tinged with candied citrus rind and licorice. It finishes with chalky
minerality and just a hint of drying, overt woodiness. Boillot
harvested in 2006 immediately after the ban de vendange, did so in
a great hurry, and then took every measure he thought efficacious - from
rapid pressing to early bottling - to preserve freshness and clarity in
his finished wines. Boillot considers his 2006s longer, finer, and more
precise as well as more sleek and dynamic than his 2005s, observations at
odds with those of many growers, but ones that my tasting bore out."
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes,” Domaine Jean Marc Boillot, 2005 ($92.99) - Stephen Tanzer: 90-93 “Pure aromas of peach, apricot, almond, and hazelnut. Suave, subtle, and rich; less generous today than the Referts, but this has more tension and grip. Finishes fairly dry but long and pure.” Because of all the buzz and hype regarding the 2005 Burgundy vintage, the top wines like this will be in very short supply and are obviously very expensive. Sancerre, Karine Lauverjat, 2008 ($20.99) - What a wonderful Sauvignon Blanc and what a great value! The 2008 vintage for Sancerre was uneven, but the best wines were terrific - more precise, more aromatic and more concentrated than the very good 2007 with comparable acidity. Mildew and uneven ripening affected many growers, but the best ones sprayed and harvested only as each parcel ripened and ended up with terrific fruit. The Lauverjat family has been making Sancerre for generations in the tiny village of Sury-en-Vaux. They produce harmonious. balanced wines that express the domaine’s unique terroir. The 12 hectares of vineyard are on the slopes of one hill, giving a range of exposures and two main soil types. The upper part of the hill is dominated by limestone clay soil known locally as "terre blanche" and produces full-bodied, well-structured wines. The lower part of the slope has a pebble limestone soil known locally as "caillottes" and produces lighter, fruitier wines. This ideal location allows the Lauverjats to produce subtle and varied wines which display individuality and finesse. Sancerre, Jean-Paul
Picard, 2008 ($23.99) - Sancerres remain a
relative bargain. There are few Sauvignon
Blancs on the market that can compare to their combination of clean fruit, solid
acidity, depth of mineral character, and overall balance and refinement. The
wines produced by this small, ten-hectare domaine are proof that not all
Sancerres are created equal. As Sancerre is a large appellation, the best
villages have developed their own reputation for quality with Bué considered
one of the finest. The vineyard slopes surrounding this hamlet have outstanding
clay-limestone soils, sunny southwestern exposures and ideal elevations. Picard
makes his fine Sancerre Blanc from the very select Grand Chemarin and Chene
Marchand vineyards. The best Sauvignon Blancs, like Picard’s, have a fresh
grass and mineral bouquet with lots of orange-citrus fruit on the palate and a
clean, refreshing finish. This wine's elegance and balance make it an ideal
match for a range of white meat and fish dishes. Couly-Dutheil Chinon Blanc "Les Chanteaux," 2009 ($24.99) - Chinon is a relatively obscure Loire Valley village known for red wines; its white wines are really obscure! The grape here and in most of the central Loire is Chenin Blanc. If you haven't tried a good Vouvray Sec, Savennières, or Jasnières, you are in the majority, but you have missed some delicious white wines. This beauty has a panoply of flavors ranging from hints of Sauvignon Blanc-like gooseberry to Sauternes-like botrytis and minerality to hints of honey. Yet it is a dry and compelling wine. Serve it with a wide range of dishes, especially those with complex or unusual flavors. The Wine Spectator: 90 "Round and fresh, with delightful melon, peach, and almond notes backed by a lingering salted butter note on the rounded finish. 1,400 cases made." Sancerre, Serge Laporte, 2009 ($24.99) - This is a more traditional Loire wine from the eastern portion of the district. The Laporte vineyards are located on several different sites in Chavignol. Many consider this village just northwest of the city of Sancerre to be the sweet spot of Sancerre, the best place to grow Sauvignon Blanc grapes. Laporte has vineyards in stony limestone (caillottes) with little soil and in clay/limestone (argile-calcaire). The former terroir contributes forward fruitiness and finesse, the latter structure and long life. Serge picks his grapes by hand and vinifies each parcel separately to ensure that the individual flavors and aromas are accentuated. His wines stand out from other Sancerres for their richness of texture and ripeness of fruit. This one shows terrific mineral undertones, some ripe peach, and zingy acidity. It is a natural with any fish, but it also enjoys the company of anything garlicky or Asian. Serge's Sancerre won one of the stingily doled out Coup de Coeur awards from La Revue du Vins de France - the only Sancerre chosen from the hundreds of entries. "Beautifully ripe Sauvignon enhanced by notes of lively acidity in the finale." La Revue is France's equivalent of Parker's Wine Advocate. Lucien Crochet Sancerre, 2008 ($26.99) - Crochet is one of the best producers in the Loire Valley. His Sancerres offer great character and depth of clean fruit. Although this offering is a touch lighter than his single vineyard cuvées, it is a solid, complete wine with plenty of punch. The acidity is crisp, but not at all overwhelming. Perfect for seafood. We also carry Crochet's "Croix de Roi" 2008 ($29.99) and "Chene" 2008 ($34.99). These are glorious Sancerres. Philippe Foreau Vouvray Sec, 2002 ($35.99) - Wine Spectator 92 “Ripe pure aromas of minerals, lemon, and white grapefruit. Precise, delineated, and uncompromising on the palate; has a strongly floral character and terrific flavor intensity. More than enough ripe fruit to support the penetrating acidity. Firm classic Vouvray, with a chalky finish.”
Alsace
Bott-Geyl
Pinot d’Alsace, 2005
($17.99) -
Alsace produces some exceptional values
and some of the most food-friendly white wine available. This beauty is truly
delicious. A blend of 3 different grapes from the Pinot family: Pinot
Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. This lively wine is just
off-dry, but it has great balance, substantial flowery fruit,
fat texture, and soft, rounded
mouth feel.
Deiss Gewürztraminer “Bergheim,” 1999
($34.99) - Marcel Deiss was born into a family of Alsatian grape growers whose
roots extend back to 1744. Upon returning from World War II to his home town of
Bergheim, he rediscovered those roots and began to establish what is now one of
the most prestigious estates in all of Alsace. His son Jean-Michel Deiss now
runs the 22 hectare estate. Tom Stephenson, in his book The Wines of Alsace,
says “Deiss has produced some of the most fabulously rich and concentrated
wines in Alsace, but they always have impeccable balance. Jean-Michel Deiss is
without doubt one of the region’s greatest wine makers.” This is an
expensive Gewürztraminer, but the wonderful perfume and the delicious tropical
fruit, floral, and spice flavors make this stunning wine well worth the price. A
rare combination of opulence and finesse. Only 40 cases made it to the metro
area.
Others
Domaine Pélaquié Côtes du Rhône Blanc, 2008 ($12.99) - We wrote up the Tavel rosé of this producer last month. Pélaquié also makes a terrific white wine from grapes such as Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Marsanne. Lush and velvety in texture, it has good acidity and interesting husky flavors with tropical notes that are off the beaten path for most folks but are none-the-less very appealing. The grapes for this wine come from the village of Laudun, considered to make the finest CDR Blancs in the entire appellation. The lighter sand, clay, and limestone soils here contribute a fine floral elegance (think hyancinth!) that is rarely achieved elsewhere.
Chateau Thieuley Bordeaux Blanc, 2009
($14.99) - This attractive blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon has a fresh,
well-defined aroma of citrus lemon, grass cuttings, and green apple. The
palate displays good up-front fruit concentration with hints of gooseberry and
honeyed grapefruit. It is medium-bodied with crisp, racy acidity. Very
satisfying. Chateau Marjosse, Bordeaux Blanc (Entre deux Mers), 2007 ($17.99) - Ch. Marjosse is the home estate of Pierre Lurton, director of two of Bordeaux's most famous properties, Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau d’Yquem. Bordeaux regulations allow eight grape varietals, and this one is a blend of most common three: 55% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Semillon, and 5% Muscadelle. In addition to their red, the property consistently makes a good white, but it excels in exceptional years like 2007 for dry white Bordeaux. Pale in color, it has fresh and lively aromas of flowers and citrus. The palate shows delicious notes of pineapple, tangerine, and apricot. Domaine Bellegarde Jurançon Sec “La Pierre Blanc,” 2006 ($26.99) - Just slightly off the beaten path, this compelling wine comes from a property in south-west France that is within sight of the Pyrenees. The grapes (70% Petite Manseng and 30% Gros Manseng) may not be household names, but they are capable of exceptional quality. The 50 to 60 year-old PM grapes give this wine good body and intensity. The flavor profile includes coconut, apricot, peach, and honeysuckle followed by an incredibly long finish. Normally very high in acid, this wine was softened somewhat by barrel fermentation (30% new) with lees stirring in the barrel for 9-10 months. Don’t miss this treat! More info is at www.domainebellegarde-jurancon.com. Chateau Villa Bel-Aire, Graves, 2008 ($29.99) - Very slick and polished with a soft, creamy texture from barrel aging, this is a delicious example of high quality white Bordeaux at a very reasonable price.
Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte Blanc, 2003 ($59.99) - A superb white Bordeaux. Robert Parker gave
it a 93-point rating with no tasting notes. In general, he suggested early
consumption for the 2003 whites, for the acid levels will not support long term
aging.
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Domaine Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc, 2008
($11.99) - The founding
and early history of Domaine Tariquet is a fascinating but long one. Go to
