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Tuscany (Toscano) Piedmont (Piemonte) Others Tuscany Mocali Morellino di Scansano, 2009 ($14.95) - The wines of Morellino, part of Tuscany’s coastal Maremma region, are growing in quality and popularity. The Mocali estate, acquired by the Ciacci family (distant relations to Ciacci Piccolomini) in the 1950s, is best known for Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino. Its relatively new Morellino features lush black currant, black cherry, tobacco, espresso, supple tannin, and a touch of French oak. The 2009 Morellino is aptly described in the Wine Spectator’s review of the 2008: "A fruity and balanced red, with silky tannins and a clean finish. This has finesse and balance for the region." In an effort to use only traditional Tuscan varietals and no international grapes as permitted by the DOC, the required 85% Sangiovese is blended with 12% Malvasia and 3% Alicante, for extra aromatics. The wine is aged 10 months in 350-liter tonneaux, of which about 30% are new. Tenuta Villa Trasqua "Alsole" IGT Toscano Rosso, 2006 ($17.99) - What a great value! This is the first time that Villa Trasqua wines have been imported into the United States. A producer of Chianti Classico located in Castelina in Chianti, Villa Trasqua also makes this lovely Tuscan wine composed of equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot. Made in a traditional style, it smoothes out with an hour of airing to reveal a very attractive wine with moderate fruit that is flexible with a wide range of food. Merlot does very well in Tuscany, and this blend is flavorful and very well balanced. The Tenuta Villa Trasqua outside Sienna consists of 120 hectares with 56 dedicated to vineyards and winery.
San Jacopo Chianti Classico Riserva, 2005
($17.99) - Classico
Riservas are generally over $20, but this one offers great value from
a fine vintage. A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo from the
heart of the Chianti zone, it shows good color and fruit as well as
the refinement of a Riserva's additional aging. The Tuscan wines of Casa Emma (www.casaemma.com) Petra Zingari, 2008 ($15.99) and EBO, 2007 ($23.99) – The hills of central Tuscany have long been famous for Chianti, Brunello, and Vino Nobile. Coastal Tuscany first attracted notice when the wines of Bolgheri became highly esteemed beginning in the 1970s (Tignanello, Sassicaila, etc.). Petra is located in Suvereto, inside Tuscany's coastal Maremma area. Vittorio Moretti and his daughter Francesca use classic Bordeaux varietals in addition to traditional Tuscan Sangiovese. The winery is a significant architectural work, and Bordeaux eonologist Pascal Chatonnet consults. Parker 90: "Zingari is a blend of equal parts Sangiovese, Merlot, Syrah, and Alicante aged in stainless steel. It is an absolutely fabulous entry-level red from Maremma. Smoke, underbrush, licorice, and truffles add complexity to the generous, dark fruit. It impresses for its sheer richness and density. Drink: 2010-2014." Parker 91: "The Ebo is even better. A blend of 50% Cab Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese, and 20% Merlot, it has layers of round, harmonious fruit that caress the palate in stunning style. There isn't a hard edge in sight in this generous, dark wine. Smoke, crushed rocks, violets, and licorice add complexity. The Ebo was aged partly in oak and partly in steel. 2010-2014." Both are limited. La Badiola Maremma Tocana Acquagiusta, 2007 ($17.99) - The Morettis who own Petra (see above) are also involved in a joint venture with chef and hotelier Alain Ducasse. The 1200-acre estate includes a hotel, restaurant, golf course, spa, and. of course, 75 acres of hillside vineyards and a new winery. Wine Spectator 92: "What a decadent and wild wine. I love the nose of crushed berries, grilled meat, and spices. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a long, caressing aftertaste. Intense and exotic with 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 30% Syrah. From the owners of Petra. Best after 2012." Tiezzi Rosso di Montalcino, 2009 ($19.99) - Enzo Tiezzi is an agronomist-enologist from Montalcino and president of the Consorzio of Brunello. His yearly production totals only 1700 cases of Brunello and Rosso combined. His historic Soccorso vineyard produced the grapes for the first wine ever labeled as Brunello (in 1870)! Rosso di Montalcino is a wine made by many Brunello producers, generally from Sangiovese Grosso grapes that aren't quite good enough for the extended aging of a Brunello. Tiezzi treats his Rosso exactly the same as his Brunello with the exception that it is aged only one year in large Slavonian oak. Brunellos must be aged a minimum of three years in wood; most see four. This Rosso is medium in body and fruit and will provide much early enjoyment with chicken, veal, and lighter pastas. Parker: 87 "Tiezzi’s 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is a pretty, fragrant red laced with red berries and crushed flowers. This delicate, somewhat fragile Rosso is best enjoyed over the near-term. It isn’t a blockbuster, but rather a wine that convinces for its finesse and harmony. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014." Although relatively expensive, Uccelliera's Rosso is an outstanding wine that needs aging. Argiano Toscano Non Confunditur, 2008 and 2009 ($23.99) - Those few who took Latin in school will easily translate "Non Confunditur" as "do not get confused." Although this impressive blend of 40% Cabernet and 20% each Sangiovese, Merlot, and Syrah comes from Montalcino, it cannot be called Brunello, but it is a dramatic wine with great intensity and complexity. The 2009 was very highly rated (Wine Spectator: 92; Top 100), but it needs time; the 2008 is delicious now! Very limited La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico, 2006 ($24.99) & Chianti Classico Riserva, 2006 ($47.99) - Ten years from now this winery may rival Felsina, Fonterutoli, Fontodi, and Volpaia as the best of Chianti Classico. Right now it is in its infancy, a work in progress, but its potential is outstanding. The recent history of Porta di Vertine began in 2006 when Dan Lugosch, an American real estate developer with family ties to Italy, bought a house with a vineyard near Gaiole in Chianti in the secluded hamlet of Vertine. Unlike most rich newcomers to vineyard ownership, Dan chose not to hire an internationally renowned consultant wine maker. One can only conclude that the man is not primarily interested in producing a Super Tuscan to boost his ego. Passionate about Porta di Vertine in general and Sangiovese in particular, he hired enologist Giacomo Mastretta full time on this tiny estate. Mastretta, previously employed at Chapoutier in the Rhône and La Massa in Tuscany, was given total freedom to run the estate and to purchase additional vineyards. Inspired by his experience at Chapoutier, Mastretta follows strictly organic principles at La Porta di Vertine. The 2.5-hectare vineyard, baptized "Vertine," sits on top of a series of rolling hills, forming a perfect amphitheater. The steep slope is bathed in sunlight well into the evening, which is why it is referred to as "Conca d'Oro" or golden shell. In addition to the Sangiovese, the vineyard included some Cabernet, Merlot, and Alicante Bouchet, but the AB was immediately grafted over to Sangiovese. Both wines saw extended maceration (skin in contact with the fermenting wine), minimal sulfites, and aging on the lees in traditional Slovenian oak casks as well as oval Austrian casks and double barriques. The Classico contains 5% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. Future vintages will be 100% Sangiovese. It has wonderful aromatics and very good fruit. It is a far more serious wine than most non-riservas and is well worth its price. The Riserva is from the best Sangiovese barrels and is simply stunning. Harmonious and complex, this joyful expression of Sangiovese was rated five stars by Decanter Magazine ("wonderful freshness on the nose, showing spicy fruit with incense, leather, and tobacco. Tangy finish of red cherries.") and chosen as "Best of Vintage!" Go to www.laportadivertine.it for more information and pictures. Fattoria di Fubbiano San Gennaro, Colline Lucchesi DOC, 2007 ($24.99) - WE LOVE THIS WINE! Tuscany produces a plethora of exceptional wines. Many, such as Chianti and Brunello, are famous. Others, such as Collini Luchesi and Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, deserve to be. C-L overlooks the celebrated city of Lucca with its vineyards nestled in the foothills of the Apennine Mountains. This wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, and 10% Ciliegiolo. The bouquet alone is worth the price of admission, but the wine delivers much more with a softness that belies its power, a sense of refinement that belies its price, and an outstanding balance of fruit, ripe tannin, and acidity. It was aged in a mix of botte and barrique for 12-14 months. Serve it with braised and roasted meats, game, and mature cheese. No, it has never been reviewed (to our knowledge). Yes, it is delicious. Don't miss it! Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino, 2008 ($24.99) - Brunello di Montalcino is typically released five years after the harvest; the 2006s arrived in late 2011. Many Brunello producers also make a Rosso that they release earlier to help their cash flow. Collemattoni made 500 cases of this exceptional Rosso. People laugh when I tell them that 50% of the pleasure I get out of a wine comes from its bouquet, but it's true; a wine with a wonderful bouquet is much more satisfying than a wine that just tastes good. The bouquet here is exceptional with a flamboyant Sangiovese perfume of violets, black cherries, and wild black fruits. This is an impressive young wine that will greatly benefit from decanting for 1-2 hours or aging for another year or two. It has serious character and concentration. Yummy! The small property was started by Aldo Bucci and is currently run by his son, Marcello. The Collemattoni vineyard is located on the south side of Montalcino at an altitude of 1,000 to 1,200 feet. The wine is fermented on the skins for 30 days in stainless steel tanks. It is then racked into small Slovenian oak casks where it ages for 12 months. The wine then ages for 6 month in the bottle before release. Uccelliera Rosso di Montalcino, 2009 ($29.99) - Uccelliera makes phenomenal Brunello, a superb Super Tuscan, and this unusually ripe and rich Rosso from only six hectares of vines. Rosso di Montalcino is a wine made by many Brunello producers, generally from Sangiovese Grosso grapes that aren't quite good enough for the extended aging of a Brunello. Parker says, "Proprietor Andrea Cortonesi embodies the finest of the artisan tradition in Montalcino. Cortonesi's wines have always been bold and exciting." His review of this wine implies that it is ready to drink now, but I would cellar it until 2013 at the earliest. Parker: 90 "The 2009 Rosso di Montalcino is a gorgeous entry-level wine. Flowers, mint and tobacco add complexity to the layered fruit, while the focus shows considerable verve and minerality. This is a great achievement in 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. I would be hard-pressed to name another grower who has made such huge strides in recent years as has Andrea Cortonesi. The artisan tradition of Montalcino is alive and well in this small, no-frills winery, while the wines have never been better." Le Bèrne Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG, 2007 ($29.99) - Although the public has discovered many of Tuscany’s great red wines, Vino Nobile has been sadly neglected. Yet it is so highly thought of by the Italian wine community, that it was included in the original five wine types accorded DOCG status (Brunello, Chianti, Barolo, and Barbaresco are the others). It is similar in style to the best Chiantis. This example is made from 90% Sangiovese (the Prugnolo gentile clone) and 10% of the local Colorino. The stunning aromatics here are quickly followed by modern, fruit-forward flavors that are ripe and rich. Delicious and not to be missed! Isole e Olena Chianti Classico, 2007 ($16.99/375ml) - Parker: 90 "Simply marvelous! A touch rounder and more generous than is typically the case, it reveals intense aromatics that meld into a core of rich, expansive red fruit. The open-knit, giving quality of 2007 is on full display, while clean, mineral notes on the finish add clarity and balance. Despite the wine’s ripeness, it remains one of the more understated, hushed Chiantis of the vintage. Readers who enjoy the Burgundian side of Sangiovese will flip out over this wine. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. Isole e Olena seems to fly under the radar, but insiders know better. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi crafts some of the most engaging wines in all of Tuscany, and Italy for that matter." Sasso di Dante Brunello di Montalcino, 2006 (original label $60; ours $34.99 net) - What a steal! For an infusion of much needed cash, the winery's owner sells off a portion of his wine to be bottled under this label. The newly released 2006 is quite closed when first opened, but decant it for 2-3 hours and you have a thing of beauty! Parker: 91 "The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino is a serious, intense Brunello. Wild cherries, herbs, tobacco, spices, and worn-in leather are some of the aromas and flavors that flow from this wiry, structured wine. This shows plenty of length on the palate, although the tannins dry out a touch on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024." Rosso di Montalcino, Valdicava, 2004 ($35.99) - Valdicava, one of the finest Brunello producers, goes back to 1953 when Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s grandmother bought 10 hectares of gently sloping land in the coolest part of Montalcino. She and Vincenzo’s grandfather planted the first vines and built a winery there. Vincenzo’s father was not interested in viticulture; he moved to Siena where Vincenzo was born and raised. Vincenzo entered the University at Florence to study engineering. With graduation approaching in 1987, his grandfather announced that he would retire from winemaking and sell Valdicava. Vincenzo had an epiphany and took over at the winery. The property desperately needed improvement. Although Vincenzo had little capital, he worked hard and began a series of changes that have shaped Valdicava into a top quality winery, and today his Brunello sells for over $100 per bottle. The 2004 vintage was a very good vintage, yet top Brunello producers like Valdicava declassified all but their very best grapes into their Rosso. Podere Concori Pinot Noir, Toscana IGT, 2008 ($45.99) - One doesn't think of Italy's Pinot Neros for high quality Pinot Noir, but Gabriel Da Prato justifiably believes that his wine deserves its "Pinot Noir" label. His father built a winery and planted the highest vineyard in all of Tuscany (located in the Garfagnana region, a strikingly beautiful part of northwest Tuscany near Lucca and the Apuan Alps famous for its marble quarries). Gabriel took over in 1999, and brought in renowned winemaker Saverio Petrilli. The vineyard is farmed biodynamically. The winery is best known for Pomegranate Red, a blend of Syrah, Pinot Noir, and local varietals. Felsina Fontalloro, 2007 ($56.99) - One of the consistently great Super Tuscans. Parker: 93 "Felsina is a reference-point for readers who want the best Tuscany has to offer. Prices remain exceedingly fair considering the quality. The 07 Fontalloro is round, sweet, and inviting, in keeping with the style of the vintage. The fruit tends towards the redder end of the spectrum vis-à-vis the Rancia, and the Fontalloro has a touch more freshness. Floral, spiced notes add lift on the finish. As attractive as the 2007 Fontalloro is, and it is very pretty, the wine does not typically develop the noblest aromas and flavors in bottle. In my experience, it is better to err on the side of youth in deciding when to drink Fontalloro. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022." Wine Spectator: 92 "There's blackberry and blueberry galore in this full-bodied wine, which has chewy tannins and a long, flavorful finish. Juicy and wonderfully fruity. Best after 2011." Tenuta San Guido “Guidalberto,” 2003 and 2005 ($55.99) - I’ve been excited about these magnificent wines since tasting the 2003 at the winery a few years ago. If you don’t recognize the name, this is the winery that makes the world-class Sassicaia in Bolgheri, Tuscany! This “second label,” from land adjacent to the “Sassicaia” vineyard, was simply outstanding - far better than the youthful 2002 Sassicaia was at that time. Admittedly, 2002 was a weak vintage, but the 2002 Sassicaia still received “3 bicchieri” (3 glasses - the highest award) in the guide Vini 2006 by Gambero Rosso and “5 grappoli” (5 clusters - the highest award) in the guide Duemilavini 2006 by the Italian Sommelier Association. Made from 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 10% Sangiovese, this wine was an overachiever in 2003. The 2005 is also stunning. Wine Spectator 90: “Wonderful aromas of crushed blackberry and cherry follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Needs time to develop in the bottle, but hard not to drink now. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese. Best after 2009.” Delicious wine at 1/3 the price of Sassicaia. Very limited. For more information, go to www.sassicaia.com/gb/wine/wineguidalberto. Lisini Brunello, 2001 ($62.99) - This wine hasn't been reviewed, but Lisini has been a consistently fine producer. Not tasted, but I'm sure it needs another few years. Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 2003 ($129.95) - With a dramatic bouquet, great depth and length, and complex cedar and tobacco notes, this is a world-class wine. Wine Spectator: 95 “Enticing aromas of meat and mushroom pie mingle with rich plum and spices. Full-bodied, with silky, caressing tannins and intense fruit and mineral flavors. Well-crafted, finishing long. The flagship Brunello in 2003. The wine of the vintage. Best after 2010. 2,800 cases made.”
Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 2004
($119.99) -
Parker: 91-94
"Very
different than the 2003 in its personality and sheer class. Vibrant
and aromatic with terrific length in its perfumed fruit with ripe,
sweet tannins that are beautifully woven into its frame. It shows tons
of detail and clarity in a compelling and utterly irresistible style.
Drink: 2014-2024."
Piedmont Bruno Pasquero Barbera D'Alba, 2006 ($21.99) and Le Cecche Barbera D'Alba, 2007 ($25.99) - I couldn't choose between these wonderful wines, so I bought them both! The Pasquero wine shows lovely aromatics and gorgeous, concentrated fruit. Aged in large wood, this wine has fine texture without any oaky character. It is delicious! The Le Cecche is a bit more modern. It was aged 16 months in 50% new, part American and part Taransaud French 500L oak casks (larger than barrique). Ripe and dramatic fruit is accompanied by numerous subtleties, spice, a hint of high quality wood, balance, and length. I love these wines!
Pelissero Barbera d’Alba "Piani," 2007 ($23.99), Barbaresco "Nubiola," 2006 ($39.99), and Long Now, 2005 ($52.99) - Antonio Galloni, in Parker’s Wine Advocate, says "Giorgio Pelissero is a young, passionate producer based in Treiso. As outstanding as the Barbarescos can be, I find just as much pleasure in his Dolcettos and Barberas which are among the finest in the region. From top to bottom this is a first-class set of wines." High-end Barberas should be more popular for their ripe flavors and great value. Pelissero’s is still young, but it has excellent fruit and very good balance. Galloni: 90 "Beautiful in the way refined layers of perfumed dark fruit grace the palate. This mid-weight Barbera offers plenty of complexity and elegance, especially at this price. Drink 2009-2015." I would give it another 6 months. The Barbaresco is a blend of grapes from six vineyards. It needs 2-3 more years in the bottle, but it is already complex and shows lovely floral, tar, and rose notes with a touch of licorice. Galloni: 91+ "A gorgeous, impeccably balanced wine. Sweet roses, dried cherries, spices, and herbs are woven into a rich, textured fabric that caresses the palate with notable elegance and class. Deceptively medium in body, the Nubiola reveals a gorgeous perfume and a long, refined finish. Drink 2011-2021." The wonderful "Long Now" is a flamboyant blend of equal parts Nebbiolo and Barbera from vines averaging 25 years. It spent 18 months in new French barriques and features a beautiful balance of fruit, oak, and ripe tannins. Yummy! Galloni: 92 "The 2005 ‘Long Now’ possesses awesome richness, nuance, and detail. It sweeps across the palate with tons of dense, layered fruit. The wine’s considerable richness covers the tannins nicely, but there is plenty of structure underneath. This is a gem from Giorgio Pelissero. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. I was extremely impressed with the new releases." The wine is named after The Long Now Foundation, which promotes "slower/better" thinking as opposed to "faster/cheaper." Enrico e Marziano Abbona Dolcetto di Dogliani Papa Celso, 2009 ($24.99) - Piemonte's Dolcetto grape gets very little recognition these days, but its practitioners are pushing the envelope to see just how good a wine can be made from this traditional grape. The answer is very good indeed! Wine Advocate: 90 "The 2009 Dogliani Papa Celso is wonderfully complete. It has an extra dimension of roundness that makes it so immensely appealing. In many years the Papa Celso is a big wine with a profile that tends towards black fruit, but the 2009 is a bit more feminine with sweet floral notes that add lift to the dark raspberries, cherries, and red plums. This is a very strong showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017." Bruno Pasquero Nebbiolo D’Alba, 2004 ($24.99) - Piemonte is the home of great Nebbiolo-based wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, and Gattinara. This noble varietal is very fussy about where it is grown because it is late-ripening and needs sunny hillside vineyards and specific soils to perform at its best. Many of the best producers will also make a Nebbiolo that doesn’t claim a prestigious DOC either because it is from a lesser area or because it is declassified (those particular grapes were not good enough for the famous label). Most of these wines are disappointing and vary greatly from year to year, but Bruno Pasquero’s 2004 is a gem. Made in a relatively modern style, it shows very good fruit, a complex, aromatic bouquet of herbal cedar, the "tar and roses" character of the varietal, and much of the complexity of a more expensive wine. It was made from 30 to 40-year old vines and aged in large oak. This is a very young wine that will benefit from aging. It is quite rough and tannic when first opened; the second day it is very impressive! Distinctive and very well made!
Veglio Michelino & Figlio Barolo, 2005, DOCG ($29.99) - This is a surprisingly good Barolo for this price. The Wine Spectator gave it a very respectable review: 88 "Offers ripe strawberry aromas with flowers amd plum skin undertones. Medium-bodied with fine etannins and a clean finish. Balanced and pretty with some nutty flavors. Best after 2010." Sobrino Nebbiolo "Vigna Carzello," 2006 ($29.99) - Edoardo "Edo" Sobrino started this estate in 1999. Although he has 22 acres of organically farmed vineyards, his production of Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Barolo totals less than 1700 cases. Do the math and you get less than 1.5 tons of grapes per acre. By comparison, the best Bordeaux properties average three-plus tons/acre. Edo has remarkably high standards, and his Nebbiolo is easily the equal of many inexpensive Barolos. This wine is traditionally made. While still somewhat youthful, it is already showing well, and the pretty aromatics are a harbinger of even better things to come. Mauro Veglio Barolo DOCG, 2003 ($39.99) - It’s a pleasure to find such a good Barolo at such a good price. Surprisingly refined for a young Barolo, it can be enjoyed now or aged a few more years. The Veglio family grew and sold grapes for several generations until neighbor and friend Elio Altare (a leading producer of Barolo in the modern style) convinced Mauro and Daniela Veglio to make their own wine. In 1992 they built a winery and began an aggressive green harvest program to reduce yields. They had previously been paid by the quantity they grew; now quality was paramount. The use of French barrique and other winemaking techniques changed the style of the wines to feature more concentration and less aggressive tannin. By declassifying some of his single vineyards and then blending them for their particular strengths, Mauro has created a Barolo “normale” that is stunning for its elegance with a nose of crushed rose petals and beautiful underlying red fruits accentuated by a soft tannic finish. Silvio Grasso Barolo Pi Vigne, 2007 ($42.99)
- This is a modern-styled, French oak-aged (24 months) Barolo that will drink
well when young. The 27-year old vineyard faces southwest. Parker 89:
"The 2007 Barolo Pi Vigne is an attractive entry-level bottling with
excellent suppleness in its dark fruit and an easygoing personality well
suited to near-term enjoyment. Flowers, chocolate, and sweet French oak linger
on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017."
Azienda Agricolo Gabutti 2005 Barolo
"Serralunga,"
($45.99), "Margheria," ($51.99), and "Gabutti" ($55.99) - These
fabulous wines straddle the extremes of traditional and modern Barolo styles.
Franco Boasso (www.gabuttiboasso.com) manages this 4.5-hectare (11-acre)
family-owned winery. The three vineyards are all considered to be
"cru"
vineyards. Since the late 19th century, efforts have been made to identify the
best plots in the Barolo zone. Inspired by grand cru Burgundies, Barolo
producers began separating their holdings into individually named vineyards
and labeling the wines with these specific designations. Although there was a
push to have the vineyards of Barolo formally classified, there is still no
official designation; however, both oral tradition and the history of high
prices paid by negoçiants have elevated some vineyards to unofficial
"cru"
status. Boasso's wines are fermented with indigenous yeast and aged for three
years in medium-sized barrels made from new Slavonian oak. They are incredibly
complex and expressive. The Serralunga (Due Bicchieri, Gambero Rosso) and
Margheria (Tres Bicchieri) have so much delicious fruit that they can be
enjoyed now with a few hours of airing. The deepest and tightest of the three,
the Gabutti (Due Bicchieri) needs to age three to five more years. Antonio
Galloni, writing for Robert Parker, gave these wines
very nice reviews (88-91 points), saying "these are the finest wines I
can recall tasting from Boasso in a number of years." The Wine Spectator gave
them 90-94 points.
Settimo Barolo "Rocche," 2001 ($54.99)
and
Barolo "Rocche," 2003 ($49.99)- These
bottlings from the same producer offer terrific value and current drinkability.
The 2003: Wine Spectator 90 points. "A silky
and refined red with blackberry and tobacco character, medium body, and a
clean finish. A beauty. Good value. Best after 2006. 570 cases made." The
2001: Wine Spectator 92 points. "This is really seductive on the nose with plums,
perfume and cedar box aromas. Full-bodied, with big velvety tannins and a
long, long finish. A beauty! Best after 2008. 1,590 cases made."
Quantities are limited. Brovia Barolo Cru Rocche de
Brovia, 2003
($57.95) and Brovia Barolo Cru Ca’ Mia, 2003 ($57.95) - Brovia makes
fabulous Barolos. These have the advantage of being well priced and nearly
ready to drink. Robert Parker: "The 2003 Barolo Rocche (91)
presents a fresher color than the normale with sweet candied cherries, spices,
and menthol that open in the glass. It possesses outstanding depth, precision,
and vibrancy. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. Brovia’s 2003 Barolo Ca’
Mia (92) is a tightly wound, powerful Barolo. The more compact soils of
Serralunga give this wine a deeper core of plums and dark cherries, along with
tar, smoke and menthol notes that gradually emerge. It offers superb richness
and purity in a bold, intense style. With time it should develop into a
splendid Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Brovia remains one of the
region’s most overlooked wineries. Readers who enjoy traditionally made
Barolos should make a point of checking out this estate, whose wines remain
very well-priced considering the quality."
Luigi Pira Barolo Margheria, 2007 ($59.99) -
Parker 94: "The 2007 Barolo Margheria is superb. The vintage has
smoothed out some of the more angular contours this wine tends to show when
young, while not overpowering what remains a structured expression of Nebbiolo.
Sweet dark cherries, tar, smoke, flowers, licorice, and saline notes wrap
around a radiant, energetic finish supported by plenty of grip. This is a
fabulous wine from Giampaolo Pira. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. This is a
head-spinning set of wines from Luigi Pira from top to bottom. I would be
thrilled to drink any of these wines any day of the week. As always, Pira
favors a style based on textural richness. At their best, the wines show an
equal amount of elegance."
Barbaresco “Cru Vanotu,” Pelissero, 1999 ($89.99) - Even
those who will buy really expensive Cabernets and Bordeaux will rarely spend
this much money for any white wine or for an Italian red. This wine is worth the
price if any is; it is world class! A ripe blockbuster, it is beautifully
balanced and refined. An amazing bouquet and a long finish put it in the elite
league. It deserves its “3 bicchieri” rating by the Gambero
Rosso. This is a memorable wine. The
Azienda Agricola Pelissero is a family-run estate and winery located in
the Piemonte’s Treiso district which is the heart of the Barbaresco production
zone. The family grew and sold grapes for many years, but in 1960 Luigi
Pelissero began to bottle his own wine which he sold as Barbaresco. Luigi
established an excellent reputation for his wine, but his son Giorgio took the
winery to a new level after completing his Master’s Degree in Oenology in
1993. Georgio brought stainless steel fermenting vats, French barrique, and
other modern techniques to the winery. Today, Pelissero is one of the top 5
Barbaresco producers. Brovia Barolo “Rocche dei Brovia,” 1999 ($66.99) - The grand Rocche is always the most intensely aromatic of Brovia’s Barolos; with brick highlights to its color, it is profoundly concentrated displaying high floral notes backed by a complex minerality, all laid out against a seductive gaminess; its length and persistence on the palate are remarkable; a wine of class and depth. Tanzer 91-94. “Good, full red color. Deep, perfumed nose of strawberry, smoke, dried flowers, truffle and underbrush, with a noble minerality. Powerfully structured, strong and long; a wine of terrific verve and thrust. Really expands to cover the mouth. Tannins are strong but buffered by the wine’s material. Amazingly light on its feet for a wine of such fullness.” Mascarello Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno, 2001 ($69.99) - Robert Parker: 93 "What a pleasure it is to taste the 2001 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno, easily the best in recent years. It displays a highly aromatic nose, with notes of roses, raspberries, minerals, and menthol with a feminine, yet structured personality and less of the green note this wine can show. This bottling can be a bit hard when first opened [written 10/06], but a little air will help to smooth the edges. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021." Gaja Magari, 2003 ($69.99) - I wish I could dislike Angelo Gaja’s wines simply because of the outrageous price of his Barbarescos - we have the 2001 at $195 - but darn if he doesn’t make great, world-class wine. He also makes this more affordable wine that deserves your attention. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, it is as flamboyant as its producer. The wonderful aromatics are followed by extremely attractive fruit that is new world in style, but not overly extracted. This is a wine of extraordinary balance, finesse, and class. Franco Martinetti Barolo “Marasco,” 2001 ($89.99) - Serious Barolo at a serious price. This “Tres Biccheri” winner has a lovely bouquet and intense, bursting flavors. My sense that it is somewhere between the traditional and the new style was confirmed by the “tech sheet.” Part of the wine was aged in barrique; the rest was aged in large wood. This wonderful wine will benefit from three to five years in the cellar. Wine Spectator 90: “Good fruit and a silky texture. A subtle chocolate, vanilla aftertaste. Refined and delicate Barolo. Best after 2008.” P. Scavino Barolo ‘Carobric,’ 2000 ($99.95)Others Made by the esteemed enologist Donato D’Angelo, these wines are 100% Aglianico, a vine that was brought to southern Italy by the ancient Greeks around 750 B.C.E. Called Vitis Hellenica, it is, along with Nebbiolo and Sangiovese, considered to be the greatest of the Italian varietals. Although the Vulcano is technically eligible to be labeled Aglianico del Vulture (currently Basilicata’s only DOC), D’Angelo gives it a different name because of its straight-forward, early-drinking style. It is cold-fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged for 6 months in large Slavonian oak. It shows an intense ruby-red color, a fruity, floral fragrance of cherries and violets, and a soft, dry, generous, ample taste with a lingering finish. For those who enjoy Salice Salentino, and other southern Italian red wines, Vulcano will be a great discovery. The Aglianico del Vulture is made from low-yielding Aglianico grapes gathered from the highest part of the vineyards (up to 1,500 feet). The harvest is usually in late October, but sometimes extends well into November! Maceration lasts 8 - 10 days after which the wine is matured in large Slavonian oak casks for about 20 months. After six months of refinement in the bottle, the wine is released and is capable of aging for 10 - 15 years. In outstanding vintages (only two or three per decade), a Riserva is made. From start to finish it is a Riserva. Only the best grapes from the best vineyards are used. The must is isolated and patiently refined in oak casks and in the bottle for 5 years. This is the same aging time as for Barolo Riserva and Brunello di Montalcino Riserva. Ars Poetica Aglianico del Vulture Riserva will develop with proper cellaring for a generation. It is considered to be an outstanding bargain among the elite reds of Italy. This beauty shows what aging can do for a wine with great potential. It has a distinctive, complex fragrance of cherries, violets, and maturity. Serve it with roast lamb, game, cheeses, rich stews, grilled chicken, steak, spicy meat dishes, or sausage (especially Luganighe). For more on Aglianico, see Eric Asimov's article in the New York Times: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/17/dining/reviews/17wine.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=aglianico&st=cse&oref=slogin. Cantina di Casteggio Sangue di Guida, 2010 ($12.99) - This unique red wine is slightly sparkling and slightly sweet with ripe plummy flavors. Think of it as a high quality Lambrusco. Think of flowers, sunshine, and Valentine's Day. Try it with fresh fruit or chocolate. Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo, Stella, 2001 ($12.99/Magnum) - The lovely Stella Pinot Grigio
is now joined by a delicious red wine. This is a refined, fleshy, juicy wine
with an attractive bouquet and real character. It’s a remarkable value.
Layer Cake Primitivo, 2007 ($15.99) - American Jayson Woodbridge (Hundred Acre) teamed up with fellow winemaker Philippe Melka to make the wonderful Australian Layer Cake Shiraz that we won’t have until the next vintage is released, probably in the fall. Expanding on the success of the Shiraz, the team is sourcing fruit from around the world to make three additional wines under the Layer Cake label. None of these wines will be available year round, for the production is limited. The Italian Primitivo (Zinfandel) is terrific. It distinctly shows Australian and Californian influences and tastes much less “Italian” than most Primitovos. Enjoy this delicious, rich, melt-in-your mouth wine while we wait for the release of the Argentine Malbec next month. Both are stylistically similar to the Shiraz. The flavor profiles are, of course, different. Provenza Negresco Classico Rosso, Garda, 2005 ($19.99/750ml and $11.99/375ml) - Students of Italian wines never cease to discover new, interesting wines. I only recently learned of this serious wine from the southern slopes of the Tenesi Valley close to Lake Garda. Made from low-yielding, 30- to 40-year old indigenous vines (Groppello, Marzemino, Sangiovese, and Barbera), it was aged one year in new French barrique (Allier) and one year in used oak. Thoroughly enjoyable now with lasagna, cannelloni, and ravioli, it will continue to develop. For trivia buffs, the Marzemino grape is widely grown in the Trentino town of Rovereto. On Dec. 26th, 1769, thirteen-year-old Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart held his first public Italian concert in Rovereto. The town hosted Mozart and his father numerous times thereafter, and Mozart later immortalized the local wine in his opera Don Giovanni: "Pour the wine, excellent Marzemino." Li Veli Pezzo Margana, Salice Salentino, 2007 ($19.99) - Italy’s Salento region lies in the southern part of Apulia between the Ionic and Adriatic seas. The 2005 Pezzo Margana was such a hit at the spring dinner we did at Rocca Restaurant that we soon ran out. The 2006 wasn’t imported, but the 2007 just arrived. Masseria Li Veli is situated just outside Cellino San Marco, half-way between Brindisi and Lecce. The historic 8-acre estate was founded by economist and professor Marquis Antonio de Viti de Marco (1858-1943) as an ambitious project to create a model cellar for the region. The Falvo family purchased the estate in 1999 and restored it. The estate’s Pezzo Margana vineyard is surrounded by huge, century-old olive trees. The vines are head-trained; yields are naturally low. Li Veli's basic Passamante Salento was our wine of the month several years ago; this is essentially a reserve wine from ten-year old, head-trained Negroamaro vines. Aged in French barrique for 12 months, it is a very attractive red with the intense character of cooked fruits, raisins, almonds, and dates, not unlike a good Ripasso Valpolicella. This soft and smooth wine reflects southern Italy at its best. Very limited! Enzo Boglietti Dolcetto D’Alba, 2006 ($19.99) - Dolcetto has been described as an
Italian version of Beaujolais, but most Dolcettos are much more intense
than Beaujolais. This one is the most intense I’ve ever tasted.
Boglietti is best known for his modern Barolos that avoid the extremes of
some of the modernists, but he also makes a terrific Barbera and this
amazing Dolcetto. Very limited. Palazzo della Torre, Allegrini, 2006 ($22.99) - This Veronese wine is somewhere between a Valpolicella and an Amarone. As Parker explains, “Palazzo della Torre (70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese) has long been one of my favorite ripasso-style wines. It reveals a plump, juicy personality loaded with perfumed, jammy fruit, roasted coffee beans, and new leather. It is absolutely irresistible, a gorgeous effort at this level and a terrific value. Allegrini employs a unique variation of the ripasso technique here. The traditional method calls for the wine to undergo a second fermentation on the skins that are left over from the vinification of the Amarone. Believing that this method leads to oxidized wines, Allegrini instead dries a portion of the grapes (around 30%) and ferments them separately in the same style as an Amarone, then adds that wine to the larger portion of the wine that is fermented in the conventional manner. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010.” Because Sangiovese is not recognized in Veneto, this wine is classified as IGT, not DOC. La Macolina "Museum," 2000 ($27.99) - We’ve carried this Italian wine from Emilia-Romagna for several years. A blend of 85% Sangiovese Grosso and 15% Merlot, it has always been a delicious and very refined wine, and a great value at $20. Like the Spaltenna Chianti, the price of this wine has jumped due to the weak dollar and the great 2000 vintage. In addition, we must now buy it from a distributor instead of directly from the importer. The wine is very special and easily worth the price. Plump, deliciously ripe, and forward, it is a joy to drink. The historic property was once owned by the noble Monsignani family. Since its purchase by Guiliana Benedetti, the quality of the wine has only improved. Production was only 500 cases! Riondo Amarone, 2005 (regular $37.99; sale $29.99) - Alone among the great red wines of the world, Amarone is made from grapes that are allowed to dry for several months after they are harvested. Up to 30% of the water evaporates leaving grapes that are concentrated in flavor and sweetness and making a wine that is concentrated in flavor and alcohol. Ripe, rich, and raisiny, Amarone will stand up to the most intense food. It is rare to find a good one for $30.
Tenuta Santa Maria alla Pieve Decima Aurea 100% Merlot, 2000 ($49.99) - Many wine lovers ignore Merlot, but the Bertani family has found that truly outstanding Merlot can be grown just 4 km. south of the source of their Amarone. Bertani modified the Amarone technique for this wine. Instead of drying the grapes for three months before crushing and fermentation as is done with Amarone, they picked and dried half the grapes for one month and left the remaining grapes on the vines to be picked “late harvest.” The wine was aged in barrique and then in bottle for three years before release. Already complex and mature, it has a compelling perfume of red fruits, dried prunes, wild berries, mocha, eucalyptus, and vanilla. It avoids the raisiny Port-like character of Amarone, but it is rich in fruit, soft and supple, harmonious, and well structured with a long, intense finish hinting at licorice. A unique beauty!
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Florentia Chianti
Riserva, 2007 ($11.99), Florentia Chianti
Classico, 2007 ($14.99) and Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004 ($21.99) -
My wife and I visited
the Castallani family winery in Tuscany some years ago. A large concern,
they grow grapes but also purchase grapes and wine from other growers and
have enormous tanks full of wine that they can blend to the specifications
of the various importers with whom they deal. The excellent “value”
Chianti Riserva from Florentia, which we have carried for four years and
which comes from outside the Classico district, is now joined by its two
more distinguished brothers. The basic Classico is a beautiful and refined
expression of Sangiovese with medium body and solid fruit. The soft
Classico Riserva has even more depth of character, a slightly longer
finish, and even better balance and sense of proportion. These are also
great values!