Current Featured | Previously Featured | What's New | Sort of New | Oldies But Goodies | Saturday In-Store Tastings


Italian White

Colosi Sicilia Bianco, 2009 ($10.99) - The Colosi Rosso is one of our best sellers. They have just released an equally delicious white wine with bright, rounded fruit and a peachy, soft texture. It is a delightful example of the improved wine making in Sicily.  

Isola del Sole Bianco, Sardinia, 2007 ($10.99) - Like the Sella & Mosca La Cala that we featured last year, this Sardinian white wine is a terrific value. A blend of 85% Vermentino and 15% of another local grape named Nuragus, it has a little more body and fruit than the La Cala.  

Via Amanti Soave Classico, 2009 (reg $14.99; sale $11.99) - This dry Italian white shows a brilliant straw-yellow color with greenish reflections. Its fresh and appealing aroma is followed by a fine balance of fruit, acidity, and mineral notes with medium body and a pleasant, almond finish. The vineyards lie in the hilly districts of Soave and Monteforte d’Alpone. The vines are green-harvested twice for perfect ripening, and the grapes are hand-sorted for quality.

Casa alla Terra Vernaccia, 2004 ($11.99) - The Vernaccia grape has never received its due in this country. This refined Italian white wine was made from 100% Vernaccia grapes grown on the rolling hills surrounding the gorgeous fortified town of San Gimignano in Tuscany. A terrific value, it is clean and refreshing with an almond undertone and good structure. It begs for olives, nuts, bruschetta, grilled shrimp, and broiled fish.

Croce Müller-Thurgau, 2010 (reg $13.99; sale $11.99) - Many customers get a kick out of our sign on Croce’s Pinot Grigio ("Joel’s wife’s favorite Pinot Grigio"). This one will clearly be her favorite Müller-Thurgau because it is the only one we carry! M-T is a grape bred by Hermann Müller from the Swiss Canton of Thurgau in 1882. Grape breeding generally reflects a desire to harness the qualities of two separate grapes, thus generating a new vine that combines the qualities of both. Müller hoped to create a grape with the intensity and complexity of Riesling, but one that ripened earlier and was more flexible with respect to climate and soil type. A partial success, M-T ripens earlier and isn’t as fussy about climate and soil, but it never reaches the quality of the best Rieslings. None-the-less it is Germany’s second most widely planted grape and is also grown in Austria, northern Italy, the Czech Republic, Australia, New Zealand, and, surprisingly, Japan and England! Recent DNA studies show that the varietal Müller crossed with Riesling, long thought to be Sylvaner, was actually Madeleine Royale, a seedling of Chasselas. Early maturing and relatively low in acid, M-T makes a fruity wine that is fresh and appealing. Croce’s version from Italy’s Alto Adige region is clean, charming, and very refreshing.

Di Majo Norante Falanghina, 2007 ($12.99) - Italy is full of local wines made from interesting indigenous grapes that are little known to the wine world at large. Falanghina from Campania has been called the “wine of Roman poets.” Although overshadowed by the newly approved DOCG status of Greco di Tufo and Fiano, Falanghina is showing its quality as it did long ago. This grape was once praised by the poets of classical Rome and graced the tables of emperors and dignitaries. Roman generals were said to have supplied this mystical juice to their conquering troops. Daniel Thomases, a wine reviewer for Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate, says, “The 1990s have seen a startling development of the quality of Falanghina, once considered suitable for large amounts of juice and little else. The variety is indeed healthy and vigorous, but more rigor in the vineyard and lower yields have demonstrated it is capable of real aromatic interest redolent of pears and resin with an important texture and depth. Benevento is the center of better Falanghina production, and the new bottles coming onto the market are a revelation of a complexity hardly imaginable just a few years ago.” Straw yellow with hints of green, this tasty wine has generous pomegranate-like fruit and a soft texture.

Calea Fiano Sicilia, 2010 ($13.99) - The Trattori Fiano that we featured last year has been replaced by this lovely wine. The sturdy Fiano grape is known for its ability to develop with age; it can mature from honeyed to spicy and nutty flavors. Fiano is indigenous to southern Italy, specifically the volcanic hills in Campania (east of Naples), where it is famous for Fiano d'Avellino, one of Italyfs best and most expensive white wines. The Romans called this ancient grape Vitis Apiana because the sweet grapes were irresistible to bees (api as in apiary). Whereas Fiano d'Avellino typically sells for $25 or more, this Fiano is half that price because it is sourced from less prestigious Sicily, not because the quality is inferior; in fact, the quality is terrific! The grapes were grown in chalky clay soil, and the wine was fermented in stainless steel at a relatively cool 64 degrees to preserve the fruit. Intense straw-yellow in color, it has pretty floral aromatics and crisp, fresh, and harmonious flavors of ripe pears, honey, and toasted hazelnuts. It pairs wonderfully with most fish and seafood dishes.

Castello di Porcia Pinot Grigio, Friuli-Grave, 2009 ($14.99) - Located in western Friuli, this estate has been in the hands of the Porcia and Brugnera families since 1181! This is a true working farm where horses are stabled, cows are raised for milk, and grains, beets, legumes, and poplar trees are grown. Of the estate’s 840 hectares, 143 are set aside for vines. The vineyards primarily produce wines eligible for the Friuli Grave and Lison Pramaggiore DOCs. The output is quite small for such a large estate, with an average total production of 2000 cases each of six different wines. All are vinified in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. This Pinot Grigio is made with extremely long skin contact, which gives the wine great depth of flavor and richness of texture. It’s an outstanding value!

Zaccagnini Pinot Grigio, 2009 ($14.99) - Zaccagnini is best known for its red Montepulciano dfAbruzzo, the bottle with the piece of grape vine attached. The owners tried to build on that success a few years ago with a white wine that was pretty poor. Now they have hit a home run with this Pinot Grigio. It is also from Abruzzo, but because the Italian DOC system does not recognize Pinot Grigio in this region, this wine uses the Colline Pescaresi IGT designation. Soft and very fruit-forward, this crowd-pleasing wine is very attractive and well-priced.

ORGANIC: Perlage Pinot Grigio, Veneto, 2008 ($14.99) - I approach organic wines with a bit of skepticism. The first to market weren't always good wines, but one made allowances given that the producers were still learning how to grow quality grapes consistently without pesticides, herbicides, or artificial fertilizers. The truth is that grape vines are subject to various pests and diseases. Controlling them by natural means is not always easy, but producers are getting better at vineyard management and winery techniques. There is usually a price premium for organic wines, but some are as good as any in their price range. Brothers Ivo and Claudio Nardi have been farming organically since 1981. They own fifty acres and purchase organic grapes from 175 nearby acres allowing them to produce 100,000 cases per year. Ivo obtained his degree in Agricultural Science from the University of Florence and is the company president. Claudio, whose degree is in technical design, also took specialized wine courses and is responsible for production. The Perlage vineyards are certified organic by Codex, an international food control organization.

Cantina del Castello Soave Classico, 2010 ($16.99) - In the beginning there was Italian Soave as the inexpensive white wine of choice. And wine drinkers saw that it was good, but they eventually wanted something different. Along came Pinot Grigio which completely replaced Soave. But now, much as Pinot Noir replaced Merlot after its 15 years of fame, many white wine drinkers are looking for something different. Unoaked to be sure, but different. Soave never really went away; its practitioners quietly improved the wine. This one is a beauty with gorgeous ripe fruit that suggests white peaches and the classic slightly bitter almond finish characteristic of the Garganega (90%) and Trebbiano (10%) grapes.

Croce dei Monti Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy, 2010 ($15.99) - Here is another wonderful Pinot Grigio that avoids the light, thin, character of so many of the genre. This one has depth and body, although it is lighter in body than the Ritratti. Both are made by the La-Vis winery. Its delicate perfume shows flowers and spice. Flavorful with apricot, tangerine, and almond notes, it is bright, balanced, and harmonious. It is perfect as an aperitif or with seafood salads, pasta, and chicken. The La-Vis winery is located in the town of Lavis (in Alto Adige) makes this wine. The name derives from the Avisio River. “Vis” is latin for “strength.” Along with the Collio and Trentino regions, Alto Adige in northeast Italy is the source of some of the best Pinot Grigios. This beauty is less expensive and significantly better than Santa Margherita. Save money, get a better wine. Hmmmm!

Ritratti Pinot Grigio, Trentino, 2009 ($18.69) - The La-Vis winery makes this Pinot, one of the best in all of Italy. Although the 2008 Ritratti ran out two months ago, some 2007 was brought into N.J. from another market where it was not selling well. We opted to pass on the 2007, which was offered at a much reduced price (because it's starting to get tired) in favor of waiting for the superb 2009. With more body and character, as well as better balance than most Pinot Grigios, Ritratti (when it is fresh) continues to be our favorite Pinot.

Bottega Vinaia Pinot Grigio, Trentino, 2010 ($18.69) - This high quality wine has its roots in the humble Cavit winery. Giacinto Giacomini and Anselmo Martini, Cavit's managing director and chief winemaker, respectively, decided to produce the best wine they could in addition to the cash cow that is the highly successful Cavit brand. In the early 1990s, they began lining up some of the best vineyard owners in Italy's Trentino region. The prized high-altitude, low-yield crus are located on the gently sloping hills of Trentino's Valle dei Laghi (Valley of Lakes) within the Dolomite Alps. These quaint, historic farmsteads, locally known as "masi," are handed down from one generation to the next. The vineyards are warmed by the "Ora del Garda," a dry, balmy breeze that sweeps across Lake Garda and protects the fruit from excessive moisture. Cool evenings keep acidity in balance and promote rich, intense aromas and flavors. Hand-harvesting and rigorous grape selection are employed. The 2010 is full-bodied, with bright acid and ripe tropical fruit. It offers an attractive nose of mango, papaya, floral essences, minerality, and hints of lemon. The lovely, round texture is unusual for Pinot Grigio.

Bruno Pasquero Roero Arneis, 2009 ($19.99) - I usually have Pinot Noir with Thanksgiving turkey, but if I had to choose a white wine, this would be it. One of the most appealing whites I’ve tasted in a long time, its aromatics are simply amazing. A panoply of fall aromas such as nutmeg, clove, and ginger jump out of the glass. Substantial lees contact gives it richness and a wonderful creamy texture. This delicious Italian wine would also be perfect with a seafood risotto. The winery is located in Vezza d’Alba, Piedmont.

Maso Poli Pinot Grigio, Trentino, 2008 ($18.99) - The best and most interesting Pinot Grigio we have tasted in a long time, this seductive, flavorful, creamy-textured wine comes from the same producer from which we get Torre di Luna PG. Three passes are made through the vineyard for the Maso Poli to ensure that the grapes are harvested at optimal ripeness. Forty percent of the wine is fermented and aged in mostly used French barriques and tonneaux (slightly larger barrels). The remainder is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. All of the wine is left to age on the lees (yeast) for seven months. Displaying a hint of copper color and nuances of pear, this is a harmonious, refined, textured wine that leads me to say to buyers of Santa Margherita, "What were you thinking? For the same price (actually less), you could have bought one the the best Pinot Grigios made!" A "maso" in Trentino is a typical rural farm with a farmhouse made of stone and its adjoining land. Maso Poli is owned by the Togn family, who restructured and replanted the vineyards in the 1970s and built a new cellar in 2004.

La Ripa Vin Santo Toscano, 1984 ($19.99/375ml) - Tuscany’s Vin Santo is made by fermenting very ripe, then partially dried white grapes in oak barrels for a few years until it becomes Sherry-like. Because some residual sugar typically remains after fermentation, Vin Santo is considered to be a dessert wine; however, there are some highly prized dry versions. This blend of 50% Malvasia, 45% Trebbiano, and 5% Sangiovese was fermented for 10 full years to complete dryness. It shows a brilliant, amber color, an intense and spicy bouquet, and generous flavors of apricot, honey, and vanilla. It is a unique apéritif, but you can also dunk your biscotti in it!
      Vin Santo is the Tuscan symbol of hospitality and friendship. Dark or light straw-colored, it has been a Tuscan tradition since the Middle Ages. The Florentine claim Vin Santo as their own and tell that in 1349, when the Ecumenical Council appointed by Eugenio IV was held in Florence, Archbishop Bessarione exclaimed while drinking the wine, “This is the wine of Xantos!” He was probably referring to the famous Tracia wine made from partially dried grapes, but his fellow table companions thought that Bessarione had found special virtues in the wine rendering it “Santo” (Holy), and since then it has been known as Vin Santo (Holy Wine).

Terredora Fiano di Avellino, 2007 ($23.99) - Campania is known for the thriving city of Naples, the breathtaking Amalfi Coast, the chic island of Capri, Mount Vesuvius, and the city of Pompeii. The most famous wine name in Campania is Mastroberardino, founded in 1878. In the early 1960s, Antonio Mastroberardino rescued the Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino grapes from near extinction. Antonio and his younger brother, Walter, ended their partnership in 1993. Antonio kept the winery and the name, but Walter, whose wife, Dora, and her family owned many of the prime vineyards, kept the land. They built a new winery and named it Terredora (Dora’s land). Fiano is arguably the best white wine made in Italy. It has the potential to improve with 2-4 years of bottle age. Although this wine is still in its infancy, it is already a delicious, medium-weight wine with good acidity, character, and class.


E-Mail: beekman@conversent.net

Website Design ©Maron Marketing Consultants, Inc.