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Austria Canada Germany Hungary Israel Japan Portugal Other Austria Hiedler Grüner Veltliner Löss, 2010 ($19.99) and Grüner Veltliner "Thal," 2010 ($26.99) - Hiedler’s fabulous Löss bottling (named for the soil) has a perfect balance of fruit, acidity, and texture. Fragrant and clean, it is detailed, bright, complex, and enormously appealing. In addition to the white pepper character typical of the grape, this one shows hints of caraway and fennel seed followed by a subtle, grassy finish. The bottling from the Thal vineyard has even more depth and richness of flavor and texture. Ludwig and Maria Angeles Hiedler have 28 hectares of vineyards around Langenlois where the Kamptal (Kamp Valley) opens to the southeast. Two air streams are generated at this intersection of two climate zones. During the day, warmth from the Southern plains of the Danube flow downwards along the Kamp River. In the night, cool air from Waldviertel streams into the valley. The Hiedlers believe that 2010 is the best vintage they have ever had. More information can be found at www.hiedler.at. Leo Hillinger Small Hill Red, 2004 ($17.99) - Only a few sections of Austria are warm enough to ripen some red varietals. This unusual wine is a blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Pinot Noir, and 25% St. Laurent (a cousin of Pinot Noir). The aromatics are quite attractive, and the flavors are reminiscent of Pinot Noir with a slight gamy character. The overall effect is refinement in a medium-weight style. This works beautifully with pork chops, chicken, and fish. Graf Hardegg Niederösterreich [Dry] Riesling vom Schloss, 2010 ($19.99) - You are probably familiar with the delicious Grüner Veltliners from Austria, but many other varietals are grown there. Riesling is one of the best. There are many styles, but they typically have nothing to do with the German style; most of them are not sweet! This one is a gorgeous example at a great price. The wonderful 2008 Riesling from Austria's Graf Hardegg sold out as soon as it was featured in the New York Times. It was the least expensive but highest rated dry Riesling tasted. The 2009 never materialized, but we just received the 2010. It is equally delicious but with a little more acidity in its youth. The original NYT review: "3 1/2 stars. BEST VALUE. Tangy, energetic, and plain delicious with ripe fruit and stony mineral flavors." It's close to Alsatian in style, but that doesn't quite capture it. It is unique, captivating, complex, and dry without being austere. Summerer Grüner Veltliner, Steinhaus, 2007 ($21.99) - The best Grüner Veltliners are ethereal whites that are subtle and never hit you over the head with flavor, but if you pay attention, the beautiful and satisfying flavors reveal themselves. Summerer makes one of the best Austrian Grüners, exceeded only by a few producers who price their wines in the stratosphere. Apparently 2006 was an excellent vintage in Austria, and this superior producer really excelled that year. A medium-bodied wine, it is beautifully balanced and very refined. This is a perfect spring sipper. And dig that glass stopper. The Summerer estate is located in Langenlois, the heart of the Kamptal, a bowl like valley with vineyards surrounding the town on all sides. Rupert and Elizabeth Summerer continue a tradition at this estate that dates back to 1679 yet this property is anything but traditional. These wines are energetic, snappy, and ripe with modest alcohol (12.5%), fresh clean flavors, and distinctive minerality. Austria is one of the most dynamic regions in the wine world today with are distinctive, honest, and have and a sense of place. They are also great with light food such as salads, chicken, and fish. Canada Cave Spring Riesling Reserve, 2003 ($12.99) - This estate-bottled wine (from 22-year old vines) is similar to a German Kabinet. Although light in body, the aromatics are intense. It’s not as sweet as the Semi-Dry, but it is more complex, with some of the steely characteristics of a Rheingau. Flawless. Cave Spring Late Harvest Riesling “Indian Summer,” 2003 ($19.99/375 ml) - This Auslese-style wine is from 2 different Niagara properties and is made from partially frozen grapes . Clearly a dessert wine, it has distinct sweetness, but again the acid is in good balance. It has an appealing uniqueness. Cave Spring CSV Chardonnay, 2000 ($19.99) - Made from Niagara’s oldest Chardonnay vines (23-27 years old), this wine was aged in new and used French oak. It is stylistically close to Burgundy. Medium bodied, it doesn’t show the lushness of hyper-ripe California fruit. Instead there is good acidity, and the oak is nicely integrated. Very worthy. Germany Fritz Windisch Niersteiner Spiegelberg Kabinet, 2008 ($10.98), Piesporter Goldtröpchen Spätlese, 2007 ($13.98), and Alsheimer Fruhmesse Auslese, 2006 ($16.98) - The shipper, Fritz Windisch, markets wines from many of Germany’s wine producing regions. The quality here is neither top nor bottom; these are solid, well-priced wines that show the quality and style of traditional German Rieslings at attractive price points. The Kabinet is the driest, but it shows a hint of sweetness to compliment the youthful acidity. The Spätlese has just a bit more fruit and sweetness, but it is still nicely balanced. Both these wines pair well with Asian and Mexican cuisine. The Auslese is a bit sweet for most meals, but it is a very tasty wine. The name may seem like an unfortunate choice, but in fact the town of Alsheim preceded Dr. Alzheimer by many centuries. In fact a charming feature of this small but important wine-producing village in Rheinhessen is its network of sunken lanes, paths carved into the land by centuries of human activity, wearing the land down. They are still used today for hiking and walkin St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling QBA 2007 ($14.99) - I'm never impressed by the Wine Spectator's yearly attempt to list the top 100 wines, but it certainly helps to sell those wines. So here goes: 90 points. "Needs a little air to reveal its floral, apricot, and slate aromas and flavors. Beautifully integrated, with a lingering, stony, savory finish. Drink now through 2018." It's actually a lovely wine. As is true with the better German wines, it shows a fine balance between fruity sweetness and acidity. This is a refreshing wine for sushi and other Asian cuisine. Joh. Baptiste Schaefer Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spätlese, 2004 ($19.99) - Previously $26.99 and worth that price, this gorgeous German wine was closed out by the distributor to make room for newer vintages. Good German wines age beautifully, and this one is just hitting its stride. It is complex, balanced, and sweet but with good acidity. The finish lingers. A stunning introduction to high quality Riesling. Limited!
Schäfer-Fröhlich Estate Riesling Medium-Dry,
2008 ($19.99) and Estate (Bockenauer Felseneck) Riesling Trocken
(Dry), 2008 ($29.99) - German wines should be more
appreciated. Quality is generally high, they pair extremely well with a
wide range of food, and alcohol levels are low to moderate. Joel B. Payne,
writing in Tanzer's IWC, raved about these wines from the Nahe
district: "Tim Fröhlich has been a rising talent in Germany, but seldom
has his star shown as brightly as it did in 2008. I marked 13 of 22 wines
with 90 points or higher, and I named him winemaker of the year. If you
want to know what great German Riesling can taste like, buy some of these
2008s." The trocken is the driest of these wines. Wine
Spectator: 90 "Hints of orange, grapefruit, apple, and smoky
mineral aromas and flavors mark this lithe, dense white, which starts out
fruity and finishes dry. A mineral accent lingers on the mouthwatering
aftertaste. Best from 2012 through 2018." The Estate Medium Dry also
received a 90-point rating: "Juicy and fresh, with vivid apricot,
peach, and mineral aromas and flavors. This is harmonious and graceful,
staying defined and resonant on the long finish. Drink now through
2018." Robert Weil Estate Dry Riesling, Rheingau, 2004 ($23.99) - Weingut Robert Weil has been called “the Lafite Rothschild of Germany.” Their top wines are some of the most expensive in the world. Weil’s 2004s have not yet been reviewed, but this is a delicious, impeccably made wine with great character. Serve it with sushi, spicy chicken, or just about any seafood. The following are Parker quotes on Weil’s previous entry-level Rieslings. “Outstanding.... Remains an excellent value... Explodes from the glass with aromatic richness. Meaty stones, minerals, melon, flowers, and sweet citrus fruits can be found in its scents. A wine of enormous depth, its lavish personality coats the palate with spiced earth, minerals, and juicy white fruits... satin-textured, marvelously pure, filled with zesty lemon, mineral, & tangy lime.” Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, 2007 ($20.99), Riesling Spätlese, 2007 ($23.99), and Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, 2007 ($29.99) - Inheriting the family estate in 1984 at the tender age of twenty, Markus Molitor both expanded the holdings and increased the quality of these artisanal wines. Pinpoint focus and incredible balance and finesse set them apart from most Mosel wines. All three of these wines received Wine Spectator and Robert Parker ratings between 90 and 92 with comments such as "voluptuous," "a beauty," "balanced and creamy," "silky," and "lip-smacking finish." Limited. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Dr. Loosen, Mosel, 2006 ($29.99) - A classic nose is followed by delicious Riesling fruit, surprising sweetness, and good acid balance. This wine shows the ripeness of the vintage. Wine Enthusiast: 90 “Dense and creamy, this offers peach, vanilla custard, and mineral aromas and flavors matched to a firm structure and a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2006 through 2015.” Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Mosel, 2009 ($32.99) - Molitor is one of the Mosel's up-and-coming producers. His wines are wonderful and fairly priced for their very high quality. The vines (many are over 80 years old and ungrafted!) sit on an extremely steep hillside of Devon slate which gives the wines a unique mineral quality. The grapes for this wine were harvested in the middle of November, softly crushed, and macerated for several hours on the aromatic grape skins. After fermentation in large, used wooden barrels, the wine was aged on the fine lees in stainless steel tanks resulting in a beautifully balanced wine (76.8 g/l sugar, 6.8 g/l acid, and 8% alcohol). Wine Spectator: 93 Points, Top 100 of 2011 "Vivid violet and black currant aromas lead to apricot, passion fruit, and slate flavors in this sleek and flavorful Riesling. Though less intense on the finish, this lingers nicely. Best from 2013 - 2025." Wine Advocate: 93 "A superb value. Mouthwateringly scented with pear and apple garlanded with heliotrope and gardenia. Delicate and luscious, with enveloping creaminess, chiffon-like airiness, and a soothing sense of seamless apple, pear, and musk melon fruit and liquid floral perfume backed by overt residual sugar, this nevertheless preserves a remarkable sense of sheer refreshment due to the low pH that characterizes Molitor's best 2009s." Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese, J.J. Prüm, Mosel, 2006 ($34.99) - The famous Prüm charges a lot for their wines, but they consistently deliver. A delicious, classically structured wine. Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese, Dr. Loosen, Mosel, 2002 ($33.99/375 ml) - Luscious! Close to a Beerenauslese in style. Hungary Pajzos Antaloczy Furmint, Tokaji-Hungary, 2008 ($12.99) - On a trip to central Europe three years ago, I spent an afternoon at an "enoteca" in Budapest, Hungary, tasting through forty Hungarian wines. The reds were uniformly disappointing, but many of the whites were surprisingly good. This is the first Hungarian wine to grace our newsletter. Modern and clean with pleasing flavors of peach, pear, and lime, as well as good acidity, this is a lovely wine for kicking back on a warm day with or without food. While the exact origin of Furmint is unclear, it is thought to have been brought to Hungary in the 13th century during the reign of King Béla IV. After a Mongolian invasion, Béla wanted to quickly revive the country's devastated vineyards. He instituted policies encouraging mass immigration of people knowledgeable in viticulture and winemaking. Many of the ensuing immigrants brought new grape varieties with them, one of which was likely Furmint. The principal grape of the highly respected dessert wine Tokaji-Aszu, Furmint is also capable of producing delightful dry wines. DNA profiling at the University of Zagreb has shown Furmint to be a parent of the lowly Gouais Blanc, which is notable only because Gouais Blanc has been shown to be a parent of Chardonnay! Israel Dalton Unoaked Chardonnay, 2002 ($15.99) - Dalton is an Israeli winery that is making some very nice wines. Kosher wines were once associated with poor quality, but today Yarden and Dalton in Israel as well as Baron Herzog and others in California, make kosher wines that are the equal in quality of others in their price range. This unoaked Chardonnay is crisp with nice varietal character. It’s a fine alternative to the heavy-handed, oaky style. Noah Tevel Cabernet, 2002 and Merlot, 2002 ($15.99) - These are surprisingly good kosher wines from Israel that have deep color and flavor, a pleasing softness, and early appeal. They are mevushel (due to flash-boiling the grape juice, which is important to the ultra-orthodox). Barkan Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2000 ($20.99) - If you want a richer wine with your seder, this kosher wine from Israel is just the ticket. Amazingly, it competes favorably with $20 California Cabs. It’s not a big, fruity, monster, but it’s quite good and has plenty of flavor.
Japan
Portugal
Las Lilas Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2009 ($8.49) - It’s not surprising that the sea-faring, seafood-eating country of Portugal should produce white wines that are great with shellfish. With a hint of effervescence and a relatively low alcohol level of 9.5%, this crisply dry white, made from a traditional blend of Loureiro and Trexeidura grapes, offers exotic floral aromas as well as hints of lime zest and ripe pear. It’s an ideal beverage for sultry summer weather. FourUVas, 2004 ($9.35) - The name refers to the four red varietals that comprise this wine. If you haven't tried a Portuguese red, this is a wonderful introduction at a great price. More information about this former Wine of the Month may be found by clicking here. Quinta da Cortezia Vinho Branco, 2005 ($11.99) and Vinha Conchas Special Selection, 2004 ($11.99) - These are delicious wines that serve as an excellent introduction to the wines of Portugal. The white is not mainstream, but it has a lot of character and is very well made. A former Wine of the Month, more details about it may be found by clicking here. It will pair nicely with seafood and white meats. The red, also former Wine of the Month for us, is a great value and deserves your attention. More information about it may be found by clicking here. Luis Pato Touriga - Baga, Portugal, 2001 ($18.99) - Luis Pato is the producer. Touriga and Baga are the indigenous grape varietals that comprise this interesting wine. It doesn’t fit within the common categories of Cabernet, Merlot, Zinfandel, etc. It does fit within the category of “delicious.” This is a big, meaty, zesty wine that will stand up to beef. It’s something different. This cuvée is in the middle of the range of excellent wines made by Luis Pato. OTHER
Gaia Notios White, Peloponnisos - Greece, 2009 ($12.99) - Greece is the cradle of classical art, culture, and wine. Before the Romans, what is now southern Italy was colonized by Greeks who brought grape vines with them. Greece has long been identified with sweet wines and Retsina, a nasty wine aged in pine resin - lined barrels, but there has been a recent explosion of quality dry wines as well. Gaia was founded in 1994 by Leon Karatsalos (Agronomist, University of Thessaloniki) and John Paraskevopoulos (Univ. of Thessaloniki, Dr. of Enology from the Univ. of Bordeaux). Notios ("of the South") is a delicious dry wine made from Moschofilero and Roditis grapes. Light and refreshing, it has crisp acidity and very attractive, clean fruit. Vaeni Naoussa Xinomavro
Naoussa. 2004 ($13.99) -
Greek wines are getting better. They are hard to pronounce and sometimes
distinctive in taste, but they are worth trying, especially with Greek
cuisine. We'll be gradually increasing our selection. Wine Spectator:
90 "Rich, elegant, and spicy, with creamy overtones to the
raspberry, cherry, and red plum flavors. Silky tannins and lush glazed citrus
notes fill the plush finish. Drink now through 2014."
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