|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Red Loxarel Ops, 2005 ($12.99) - The Penedès region of Spain is best known as the source of most Spanish Cava, but a number of fine table wines are also produced here. This Cabernet, Merlot, and Tempranillo blend offers medium intensity, ripe, and juicy fruit with nuances of oak (especially in the bouquet). Soft, rounded, and gentle, it is an exceptional value. Traveling to Spain? The Penedès region is only a half-hour drive from Barcelona! Ramon Cardova Rioja, 2003 ($13.99) - This kosher Spanish wine, made from 100% Tempranillo grapes, has good fruit and real character. It still shows youthful exuberance, but this lightly oaked wine is perfect for Passover and other occasions. We also have their Crianza 2002 ($19.99) and Reserva 2001 ($29.99) Javier Asensia Crianza,
Navarra, 2000 ($13.99) - Spain is producing amazing wines at fabulous
prices. Adjacent to and east of Rioja, Navarra is much less developed and is a
region to watch. This blend of 50% Cab. Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and only 20%
Tempranillo is a sort of “SuperNavarra.” Deep in color. this is a big wine
with lovely aromatics. Although it spent a year in oak, the wood barely shows.
It is a superb value with rich, plummy, and ripe flavors. Buil & Giné 'Giné Giné,' Priorat, 2002 ($12.99) - What an interesting wine! The name is odd, but this medium-bodied wine has a delightful refreshing and spicy quality to it. Mouthwateringly good! Valserrano Crianza, Rioja, 2001 ($15.99) and Valserrano Finca Monteviejo, Rioja, 2001 ($39.99) are exceptional Spanish wines. The Crianza has an amazing amount of flavor for a Rioja. The single-vineyard version is world class and very limited. Don’t miss these wines! Castano Solanera, 2002 ($16.99) - Yecla is one of numerous districts in Spain that have burst on the international wine scene with surprisingly good wines at modest prices. Parker 90: “A formidably endowed, chunky, rich, chocolatey, melted licorice, blackberry, and black currant-scented wine. Loads of texture and a luscious mid-palate revealing scorched earth and black fruits. A sizable effort with extremely ripe tannin, something only old vine, late harvested Mourvèdre can achieve. Exuberant and flamboyant!” Bodegas
Ondarre Rioja Reserva, 2001 ($17.99) – The 1998 version of this exceptional wine was a gold
medal winner at the 2002 International Wine & Spirit Competition, and the
2001 is actually better!
Traditionally made Riojas such as this are becoming rare as the race seems to be
on to make bigger, more intense, earlier drinking, and less oaked wines. But
with extended barrel and some bottle aging, the best Riojas such as this one
develop a soft, velvety, oaky patina. At the same time, because Rioja is one of
the cooler parts of Spain, they retain good acidity. This beautiful blend of 75%
Tempranillo, 15% Manzuelo, and 10% Garnacha is a great value. Serve it with
turkey, chicken, pork, or veal.
Las Rocas Garnacha VV, 2005 ($19.99) - Here is the newest
release of this wonderful Spanish wine. The price is a little higher due to the
weak dollar, but this is still an excellent value. Parker 91 “The 2005 Las
Rocas Vinyas Viejas comes from high altitude, low yielding, 100+ year-old
Grenache vines, and is aged in French and American oak. More aromatic than its
sibling, it has a splendid perfume of spice box, lavender, kirsch, and
blueberry. It is also a bit richer and longer in the finish. While it may evolve
for 1-2 years, who could resist it now?” Josh Reynolds, writing for Stephen
Tanzer’s IWC: “Dark ruby. Intensely aromatic nose offers vibrant
raspberry and kirsch complemented by suave mocha, licorice, and spicy minerality.
Sexy cherry-cola and dark berry flavors are impressive for their purity and
impact, offering far more character than one usually finds at this price. The
sweet red fruit finishing flavors show impressive lift and persistence. While
writing this article, I drank a bottle of the 2001, and it was holding on
nicely, showing suave flavors of dried red fruits, cassis, and smoked meat.”
Garnacha is the Spanish name for Grenache, the varietal that forms the
backbone of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and most other southern Rhône reds.
Bodegas Y Vinedos Maurodos “Prima,” Toro (Spain), 2005
($20.99) - This is the new vintage of a wonderful
Spanish wine from the Toro district. This obscure part of Spain produces some superb wines. Prima is a
big, highly extracted wine that is soft, spicy, and very appealing. It is made from 100% Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo) and
was aged 11 months in French and American oak. Both Robert Parker and
Stephen Tanzer rated this wine 90 points. Tanzer: “Spicy cherry and
dark chocolate aromas are underscored by minerals and orange zest. Sweet
raspberry and kirsch flavors are impressively pure and deep... Gains sweetness
on the long, spicy finish. This outstanding value offers the complexity of
wines costing much more.”
We still have some of the 2004 at the same price -
Robert
Parker 90: “The 2004 Prima is 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) aged 11 months in
French and American oak and bottled unfiltered. It reveals notes of cedar,
pencil lead, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. Medium to full-bodied, the
wine’s personality is fruit-filled and flavorful. It has fine depth and
concentration, and the tannin is ripe. This strong effort will evolve for 2-4
years and drink well through 2017. It is an outstanding value.”
Falset
Márça Old Vines, 2003 ($19.99)
- Certain wines make you step back and say, “Wow!” This is one of them. From
the hills of Montsant, Spain, which is very close to Priorat, this big,
delicious blend of 85% Garnacha (Grenache) and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon is
fabulous and a real value. The grapes were grown on a vineyard with an 11%
slope, which is difficult for the workers, but great for the quality of the
wine. The excellent drainage and very poor soil ensures low yields. Jordi Alonso
was the winemaker for this 1200-case cuvée. Stephen Tanzer 90: “Inky ruby.
Deep, powerful, and exotic on the nose, with intense cola, licorice, cherry
liqueur, and oak spice aromas; this smells like a serious, big-bucks wine.
Suave, silky, and lush, the cherry and dark berry flavors show great intensity
and sweetness and are given focus and support by fine-grained tannins. Pliant
and sweet through the strikingly pure, bright, long finish. A superb bargain.” Ochoa
Reserva, Navarra, 1998 ($19.99) - This blend of 70% Tempranillo and 30%
Cabernet Sauvignon is the big brother of our featured wine this month. Aged two
years in American oak barrels, it was then aged in bottle for an additional two
years before its release. The blend works very well with neither varietal
dominating. This medium-flavored, serious wine is drinking beautifully now, but
it will continue to develop. Another excellent Spanish wine! Casajús
Tinto, Ribera del Duero, 2003 ($19.99) - A blockbuster that couldn’t be
more different than the Ochoa Reserva. Made from 100% Tempranillo, it is quite
aromatic with intense color and fruit. This tiny winery (less square footage
than Beekmans) has exactly one employee - the owner! José Alberto Calvo Casajús
joined the family bodega after finishing school but decided to build his own
bodega in 1993. He makes only 350 cases from vines planted in 1920! The old
vines, planted in weak sand and clay soil, produce yields so ridiculously low
that the fruit of six vines is required for each bottle!!! Aged for three months
in both French and American oak, it needs a little time to soften the slightly
tannic finish, but it’s darn impressive now.
El
Coto Rioja Reserva "Coto de Imaz," 2001 ($22.99)
- We’ve carried the El Coto Rioja Crianza since it was our Wine of the Month
in 2005, but this is the first time we’ve carried the Reserva. Made from
selected Tempranillo grapes from El Coto’s vineyard in Rioja Alta (the
Crianza also uses grapes purchased from growers in Rioja Alavesa). It was
given a long maceration with the skins and after which it was aged 18 months
in American oak barrels. It was further aged for 24 months in the bottle
before release. This is just a beautiful example of a traditional Rioja. Soft,
oaky, elegant, and very refined, it is a supple, pleasurable, medium-flavored
wine. El Coto was founded in 1970 and has grown dramatically since
then. The Reserva is named for the estate surrounding the medieval fortress
pictured on the label. Monks cultivated vineyards surrounding the Fortress of
Imaz as early as the 16th century.
Martinez La Orbe
Rioja, 2002 ($22.99) - This is the replacement for the stunning 2001
vintage. From a clearly more challenging vintage, it none-the-less is a very
successful wine with plenty of flavor and finesse. Parker 87: “The 2002 La
Orbe spends 12 months in French and American oak, exhibits leathery, spicy,
graphite characteristics along with sweet cherry and black cherry fruit infused
with toasty vanilla. It is best consumed 2005-08”
Condada de Haza, Ribera
del Duero, 2002 ($22.99) - This is a terrific
replacement for the 1995 and 1996 vintages. This is a new property of
Alejandro Fernandez, the owner of Pesquera. Rich, chocolatey and moderately
oaked this is good stuff! Delicious now, but seems to have the stuffing to
last a few years. Recent vintages have all received Wine Spectator 92!!
ratings.
Los 800, 2003 ($24.99) - Here is another Spanish wine that
offers tremendous value. Compare this to a $40 California Cabernet! The name
of this Priorat wine derives from the fact that all the vines are planted at
an altitude of at least 800 meters. Aged for six months in a combination of
French and American oak, this blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Carignane, 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah is not a huge wine. But there is good depth
of fruit, the balance is superb, and it components are beautifully integrated.
Stephen Tanzer: 90 “Bright red. Fresh raspberries and candied cherry
on the nose plus a jolt of minerals adding energy. Crisp, nervy red berry
flavors are underscored by zesty minerality and gain sweetness on the finish.
Very fresh and elegant, especially for the price.”
López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Rioja Reserva,
1996
($32.99) - This is one of the wineries I visited
on my trip to Spain in 2003. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the
125 years since its founding. The family adheres to the tradition begun in the
1880’s - to make wine only from their own vineyards, using natural yeasts,
long aging in wood, and no filtration at bottling. Most of its competitors are
now owned by outside investors, but López de Heredia is owned and operated by
the family who founded it. The bodega is now in the capable hands of the
family’s youngest generation, Maria José, Mercedes, and Julio Cèsar. Bodegas
Tritium Tempranillo, Rioja, 2003
($36.99) - Robert Parker: 91 “The
delicious 2003 Tritium, 100% Tempranillo, was bottled for the importer by
Vinicola de Alcanadre, a cooperative. It is medium to dark ruby in color with
aromatics that just won’t quit. Spicy red and black fruits with hints of cedar
and smoke are followed by an elegant, medium bodied wine with a velvety texture
and intense, lingering flavors. Close your eyes and you might think you were
drinking great Burgundy.” San
Vicente, Rioja, 1999 ($44.99) - One of Rioja’s
perennial winners, San Vicente makes wines that are Pomerol-like, but with more
intensity. It is made from 100% Tempranillo, spends 20 months in new American
and French oak, and is bottled unfiltered. This 1999 is developing nicely, but
it’s already plump and seductive. Parker 92: “The dense, hedonistic,
jammy 1999 boasts loads of fruit and glycerin, as well as additional ripeness,
volume, fat, and depth. Displaying the same black currant, jammy cherry fruit,
and copious toasty new oak characteristics, it will provide enjoyment during its
first decade of life.” Coma
D’en Pou, 1999 ($45.99) - From the Terralta appellation in Catalonia,
this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Garnacha (Grenache). Deeply
concentrated with complex flavors, it is accessible, but will improve with
several years of aging. TRADITIONAL
RIOJAS
- These may be dinosaur, but they are outstanding, world-class wines! Additional
older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies
But Goodies page.
White Ladera Sagrada Papa, 2005 ($14.99) - Spanish Albariños have received some acceptance, but who has ever heard of a grape called Godello? The Ladera Sagrada winery (est. 1920), in the Valdorras region of northwestern Spain, is owned by Jose Sotos. Although this is one of the coolest parts of Spain, the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean moderates the temperature and provides for a longer ripening period resulting in more aromatic and fresher wines. A 15% slope and a nutrient-poor topsoil and subsoil (slate stone, granite, and thin clay) produce one-third the yield of most Spanish wines. The resulting wine is unique and unoaked with great flavor intensity and aromatic expression. Delicious now, it has a reputation for improvement with age. Burgáns Albariño, Rias Baixas (Spain), 2004 ($14.99) - This second label of Martin Codax is stunning. Harvested 10 days after most Albariños, it shows more ripeness of fruit, a wonderfully floral bouquet, and remarkable balance between its fruit, body, and acidity. A touch of carbon dioxide gives it a lively, crisp finish. One of our best $15 white wines. Nessa Albariño, Rias Baixas, 2005 ($15.99) - If you haven’t discovered the charms of the Spanish Albariño grape, or if you just want to try a different wine, here is a great opportunity. The soft, almost fat texture as well as a bouquet and flavors that are reminiscent of both Sauvignon Blanc and dry Riesling, make this wine enormously pleasing. Rias Baixas lies in Galicia. This northwest section of Spain is on the Atlantic Ocean, and the damp climate can be problematical for grapes tend to rot with continual exposure to high humidity. Modern Albariño is grown on a unique trellising system that allows maximum air circulation and minimizes rot. Torres de Ermello Albariño, 2004 ($15.99) - We have finally found a replacement for the delicious Dona Rosa Albariño that is no longer available. Like other topnotch Spanish Albariños, this has a wonderful texture, cleansing acidity, and no oak to interfere with its bright and fresh fruit. It is the perfect accompaniment to sea food. Nosis,
Buil & Giné, Rueda (Spain), 2003
($16.99) - Rueda, Rias Baixas, and
Rioja are the sources of Spain’s best white wines. This beauty was made from
50- to 100-year old Verdejo vines on a terraced vineyard overlooking the Duero River. Large, old oak aging
rounded the texture but imparted no oak flavor. The wine has a seemingly
contradictory combination of soft texture and crispness. Like the Burgáns
Albariño, it was finished with a refreshing hint of CO2. Terras Gauda Albariño “O Rosal,” Rias Baixas, 2005 ($19.99) - This is one of Spain’s best Albariños. It was a best seller for us, but following a dispute between the winery and the importer, the wine has been unavailable here for nearly five years. Now it’s back, and it must be tasted to be believed. Rich, rounded, and almost oily in texture, classy in its sense of proportion and balance, and complex in flavor from beginning to end, this unique wine was worth the wait. R.
Lopez de Heredia Blanco Gran Reserva, 1987 ($37.99) - Speaking of
challenges, this Rioja winery, pronounced LOW-payth day (h)ay-RAY-dee-ah, was
one of the highlights of my recent trip to Spain. It is an extremely traditional
winery, one of the last in Rioja to use only wood for fermentation and aging.
The only stainless steel in the entire winery is on the inside of some of the
spigots, and that is only because it is mandated by law. Lopez is a dinosaur and
proud of it. This family-owned property is on its way to being run by a totally
committed third generation. Two sisters do the wine-making and oversee the
winery operation; their brother does the marketing. Our tour was given by one of
the sisters. Only 2 Rioja wineries still make white wines in the traditional
manner. Lopez ages theirs in oak barrels for as long as they age their reds, 6-7
years! They are then aged in bottle an additional 6 years. Yes, folks, 1987 is
their current release! This is a wine unlike any you may have tried. No fresh,
fruity, bright, short-lived wine here. Instead, it is mature, complex, and
crisply acidic. It will continue to age well. Of all the wines we tasted at
Lopez, this is the one Judie and I kept going back to. Unique, food-friendly,
and fascinating!
Website Design ©Maron Marketing Consultants, Inc.
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
