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Current Featured | Previously Featured | What's New | Sort of New | Oldies But Goodies | Saturday In-Store Tastings |
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New Arrivals
Whites
Maso Poli
Pinot Grigio, Trentino, 2008
($18.99) - The best and most interesting Pinot Grigio we have tasted in a long
time, this seductive, flavorful, creamy-textured wine comes from the same
producer from which we get Torre di Luna PG. Three passes are made through the
vineyard for the Maso Poli to ensure that the grapes are harvested at optimal
ripeness. Forty percent of the wine is fermented and aged in mostly used
French barriques and tonneaux (slightly larger barrels). The remainder is
fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. All of the wine is
left to age on the lees (yeast) for seven months. Displaying a hint of copper
color and nuances of pear, this is a harmonious, refined, textured wine that
leads me to say to buyers of Santa Margherita, "What were you thinking?
For the same price (actually less), you could have bought one the the best
Pinot Grigios made!" A "maso" in Trentino is a typical rural
farm with a farmhouse made of stone and its adjoining land. Maso Poli is owned
by the Togn family, who restructured and replanted the vineyards in the 1970s
and built a new cellar in 2004.
Domaine des Gerbeaux Pouilly-Fuissé "Terroir de Pouilly et Fuissé," 2008 ($32.99) - The most famous wine from Burgundy's Mâcon district, Pouilly-Fuissé, can come from four Chardonnay-growing villages. Most examples are priced in the mid-$20 range, but there are several premium producers whose wines (and their prices) rival the great wines of the Côte d'Or. Although not inexpensive, this wine is an exceptional value, easily the quality equivalent of white Burgundies costing $40-$50. Made from vines up to 85 years old, it displays good body, richness, and depth of fruit. This integrated and very classy wine has a beautiful balance of roundness, minerality, and acidity. The seven-hectare domaine was created by Jacques Charvet in 1896. Five of the hectares lie within the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. Charvet's grandson, Jean-Michel Drouin, the current owner and winemaker, farms the estate according to biodynamic principles. The "Terroir de P&F" comes from the best and oldest vines on red and chalky soils. It was aged in oak (20% new) for 18 months. Don't miss this special wine!
Reds
Ovidio Tempranillo, La Mancha - Spain, 2005
($15.99) - This rich, modern wine from Bodegas Bernal Garcia Chicote is made
from 100% Tempranillo (called Cencibel locally) aged for 15 months in barrique
(a combination of French and American). Easy to enjoy vanilla and toast aromas
are joined on the palate by supple and ripe black fruits. The intensity of
flavor comes from extended maceration; the skins are left in contact with the
wine for over thirty days! At this price, one doesn't often find such
refinement and balance between fruit, acid, structure, and ripe tannins, but
here it is! Try with pizza, pasta, red meat, or chicken. Unfined, but lightly
filtered. I have no idea who Kim Clougherty writes for, but she liked this
wine: 89 points "Inky purple-black color. The bouquet is intense,
and there's no question that it's Tempranillo with its characteristic spicy,
mineral, smoky notes over a background of warm, ripe cherry fruit. The red
fruit flavors follow through on the palate which shows its softer side with
velvety smooth tannins leading into a distinctive, smoky, mineral
finish."
Château de la Grave "Bel Air," Côtes de Bourg, 2005 ($15.99) - The epitome of the "fairytale" castle, Chateau de la Grave also makes darned good wine at a darned good price. Built in 1740, this small, turreted château has been in the family of current owners Philippe and Valérie Bassereau for 105 years. Two wines are produced from different parts of the estate. The "Bel Air" is a great value. It definitely shows its oak treatment, but there is also lovely, balancing fruit. It is softer, more approachable than the "Charactere," which we also carry.
Taylor-Fladgate First Estate Reserve, NV ($19.99) - This is a superb, non-dated Port for everyday drinking. It is far superior to basic ruby ports and nearly has the richness of an LBV, but it is totally soft, smooth, and ready to drink now. No aging or decanting is required. Its rich, jammy, black fruit. mellow oak, and full body make it an excellent partner for rich, highly flavored cheeses as well as intense desserts which can easily overwhelm lighter wines.
François Crochet Sancerre Rouge "Réserve de Marcigoué," 2006 ($27.99) – Yes, Virginia, there is a red Sancerre! In fact, Sancerre was known primarily for red wine made from Pinot Noir until the late 19th century. After the devastation of phylloxera, the majority of its vineyards were replanted with Sauvignon Blanc, but even today Pinot Noir accounts for about 20% of production. No other varietals are allowed in the 14 villages permitted to use the Sancerre AOC. Most of the Pinot Noir goes into rosé or light reds similar to Beaujolais, but a few producers go for a more serious Burgundian style. Even those producers donft always succeed, but François Crochet has been making terrific wines in most vintages. This amazingly good wine exceeds the quality and depth of fruit available from Burgundy at this price. Fragrant and ripe red-berry fruit on the nose is followed by copious amounts of wild strawberry and violet character on the palate. Deep in color, the wine is subtle, complex, and lengthy. The grapes were hand-harvested from vines with an average age of 35 years grown on chalky clay soil. The wine was aged in a combination of 228 liter and 500 liter oak barrels for 14 months after which it was bottled unfined and unfiltered. Only 250 cases were made. A winner!
Pull 80 Pinot Noir, Oregon, 2008 ($17.99) - This fine value is made by a highly respected McMinnville winery that wishes to remain anonymous. Ten percent of the grapes come from just outside the Willamette, so it carries the Oregon designation. Aged for ten months in used wood, it shows nice cherry and spice character, slightly dark fruit, and good length. The label is a tribute to Patrick Edward Crowley, the President of the New York Central Railroad from 1924-1931. His reputation for demanding a hard day's work and maximum efficiency led his friends and colleagues to coin his initials into the nickname gPull Eighty Cars.h In the early 1900s most locomotives typically pulled only thirty cars. Crowley demanded that all his locomotives over-deliver the norms for his day. This Pinot Noir does the same.
Cambria Pinot Noir "Benchbreak Vineyard," Santa Maria Valley, 2006 ($29.99) - The maritime influences that funnel in from the ocean make Santa Maria Valley the coolest part of California - perfect for Pinot Noir. The low-yielding Bench Break Vineyard is a small, distinct area of the family-owned Cambria estate. Sitting at the highest elevation on the western side of the property, this site has the shallowest soil on the estate, which restricts vine vigor and yields fruit with concentrated flavors. This wine is dark, exotic, and voluptuous with good minerality. Wine Enthusiast 92: "Bring on the grilled salmon, ahi tuna, pork chops, and smoked country ham. This gorgeous Pinot will let them shine in a supportive way, not overwhelm them. Dry, crisp, and elegantly silky, it shows complex flavors of cherry, cola, rhubarb, licorice, and beef jerky that finish in a swirl of dusty spice."
Coudoulet de Beaucastel, Côtes du Rhône Rouge, 2007 ($29.99) - One of the great Rhône values, this wine is made from grapes grown on the wrong side of the highway and are thus not allowed to use the Châteauneuf du Pape designation. The grapes are treated and the wine is made in the same way as Beaucastel's $100 Châteauneuf. We still have some of the 2004 and 2005 Coudoulet at the same price; they are drinking beautifully. Robert Parker 92: "The blockbuster 2007 Côtes du Rhône Coudoulet, always one of the best bargains from the south, may be the finest Coudoulet ever produced. A blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, and the rest Syrah, Cinsault, and a few other authorized varietals, it is incredibly opulent and rich with sensational notes of black currants, licorice, smoked herbs, and meat juices, a full-bodied mouthfeel, savory tannins, and good acidity as well as length. This outstanding wine can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 years. One of the great estates of the Rhône Valley, Chateau Beaucastel has been run by several generations of the Perrin family beginning with the late Jacques Perrin (who died in 1978), then the brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois, and now their sons Thomas, Marc, Pierre, and Mathieu. Beaucastel has nearly 200 acres in vine in Châteauneuf du Pape, and they have branched out with an impressive operation under the Perrin et Fils label, purchasing grapes and acquiring land (in Vinsobres and Gigondas, for example). Their goal is to become the most recognized name for high quality wines in the southern Rhône."
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